SCHYBRID

heres my setup.
JRSC @ 12 psi (stock motor)
RC 310 injectors, Bosch pump(massive)
cartech 20005
Type R exh. cam, STR gears
3" exhaust
68mm holley throttle body--port matched manifold s-tube
mild ported head

heres my problem:
i just ran my best time ever, 12.4 @ 111 mph, with a 2.1 60 ft.
i usually run 1.8 60ft. times, but i bogged off the line, but still pulled off a 12.4 @ 111 mph.
if i would have pulled off the usual 1.8 60ft., my run would have probably been a 12.1 @ 114 mph.
the car weighs in @ 2100 lbs.(without me)
i want to get the car into the 11's.
all i need is .2 more to hit 11's.

i really can't remove anymore weight because i need to keep it somewhat safe and be able to use my power windows, etc..

HERES MY ULTIMATE QUESTION::

I WANT TO RUN SOME NITROUS TO COOL THE CHARGER AND GET MORE POWER.
MY OPTIONS ARE :
1. RUN A DRY 25 SHOT BEFORE THE CHARGER IN THE INTAKE TUBE.
2. RUN A DRY SHOT INTO THE MANIFOLD AFTER THE CHARGER.
3. RUN A 35 WET SHOT INTO THE INTAKE TUBE BEFORE THE CHARGER.
4. RUN A 35 WET SHOT INTO THE MANIFOLD AFTER THE CHARGER.
WHATS THE BEST ROUTE TO TAKE.
ALL OF YOUR PERSONAL EXPERIENCES WILL HELP OUT OR PERSONAL KNOWLEDGE OF NITROUS.
THANKS IN ADVANCE TO ALL TURBO GUYS ALSO!!! LOVE TURBOS TOO, JUST WAITIN' FOR THE MOTOR TO GO SOUTH, THEN ITS TURBO TIME!!!!!

Evil DOHC

Very impressive times for a sc honda. Now 114 mph trap is good for a 11 second run. I think u can hit 11's without the laughing gas. Suspension, slicks and driver should be your top three priorities. In such a light car you should be pullin low 1.7 60fts. What size slicks are u using? Suspension?
EVIL

SCHYBRID

JUST AQUIRED SOME 14" HX WHEELS (12LBS EACH), ON MY OLD MICKEY THOMPSON SLICKS 14" X 7"

I WANTED TO GET SOME LENSO'S 13 X 8 WITH SOME M&H SLICKS 22'' X 8" X 13", BUT M&H IS MOVING OR SOME ****. SO ILL HAVE TO STICK WITH THE 14'S FOR NOW, BUT HOW BOUT THE NOS ? DRY OR WET ? SOMEBODY SAID RUNNIN' NITROUS THRU THE CHARGER BLADES MIGHT CAUSE THEM TO CHIP..
OH, SUSPENSION, JUST SOME PLAIN OLE' H&R SPRINGS AND THE 2 FRONT ES SUSPENSION INSERTS, HAVN'T DONE THE BACK ONE YET.

SCHYBRID

heres a picture of the head with the maniflod after it was mildly ported.
http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/...5271&members=1

DLB1994

u get the 22's u will be in the 11's

FIxALPHA

Thank You for not using CAPLOCK on your third post.

Evil DOHC

22's would do it. But I think u really need to get those 60fts down to 1.7's. U might launch the **** out of the car and break an axle but it will be worth an 11 sec pass with just a sc blower. I would not shoot the motor, because it is very possible and impressive to break 11's in any honda without using nos.
EVIL

SCHYBRID

for someone who doesnt like others to use CAPS, isn't FIxALPHA all CAPS except the x ? just wondering. practice what u preach holmes!!!!


Evil Gsr, yeah, i dont want to use the silly gas, but i want to hit the 11's soon, but im hesitant like you said. its not a pretty sight with 12 psi and nos on a stock block!! but it might just work, who knows till i try!!!!

FIxALPHA

Im just giving you a suggestion....

We don't need another smart a$$ newbie on this board....Im sure others would agree.

B18C-EJ1

Get a Hondata system, and some 13x22x9 slicks. You'll be in the 11's.

The NOS isn't a bad idea either, but just make sure the engine is tuned properly, and you should use a dry shot, and pipe it directly into the manifold, before the rotors. A 25 shot should suffice, plus you may want to look into getting a new manifold gasket from the head to the JSRC.

Like this....




[Modified by B18C-EJ1, 12:10 PM 3/3/2002]

SCHYBRID

FIxALPHA, you have yet to respond with anything that pertains to my original post.
It seems as if your the smart A$$.
dont post again unless it pertains to my original post, AIGHT ?

B18c, were you referring to running a dry shot into the intake tube, because if i run it into the manifold it will be after the blades of the charger. as far as the manifold gasket swap, its just too much work the the actual results it produces.

B18C-EJ1

No, run a dry shot to the manifold itself, after the t-body, before the blades.

How do you figure that changing the gasket is too much work to lower the temps by up to 30-40 degrees?




[Modified by B18C-EJ1, 1:14 PM 3/3/2002]

VaporTrail

you think so? I highly disagree. Just because it only costs 70 bucks shipped does not mean it's results are minimal. I would put one on if I were you.

You should be able to pull a 12.0 with your car like it sits right now. Step up to the 22's on a 13inch rim.

FIxALPHA

AIGHT...

SCHYBRID

vaportrail, your right, the results may be worth it, but ive already removed the charger once to port the head.And during the reinstall of the charger itself, i ended up having a hard time getting it to sit properly and almost stripped the holes in the charger. i would love to put on the new gasket, but i might open up a can of worms in the process. Vaportrial, do you think the 25 shot will work properly with my setup ? do you know Curt, the guy who was actually hitting 11.1 with the same setup ive got, but with the NOS. he finally did blow the motor , i think.

FIxALPHA, you win man!!!

11secdx

what car and engine setup do you have?

SCHYBRID

94 civic coupe / gsr , b18c1 swap.

VaporTrail

Know Curt? He used to work for me at my shop. I watched that car evolve from a stock DX hatch all the way to it's final ten second pass and sale.

We used a 25 shot wet just before the TB. After some careful and safe dyno tuning, this jetting gave us a 40hp boost on 10lbs, and later, 50hp gain on higher boost levels. It cooled the charger so much that you could put your hand on it after a 1/4 pass. His best time in that car on the stock block/head/ecu was 11.2@123mph with nitrous, 11.9@115mph without. Later, after the motor was built, but still on a stock ECU, this car ran a 10.60@130mph in full race trim, was then parted out and sold off after the NHRA event last year in Gainesville. The car is floating around here somewhere....maybe in Gainesville.

SCHYBRID

how can i use a 25 wet shot, the smallest anybody makes is a 35 shot from nx.
25 shot is nly dry i thought?

SCHYBRID

yeah, a 25 dry shot, they say the computer will compensate for the amount of NOS being added. but you have to add the shot before the MAF sensor.

VaporTrail

What we did was take a NOS direct port system, then use only one of the nozzle foggers. With a direct port style nozzle, you can jet as low as 20. A dry kit is only going to raise fuel pressures further, which isn't a great idea unless you are running Hondata or a similar style stand alone. It's a must to tune this setup on a dyno.

SCHYBRID

So what your saying is, you used 1 of a set of 4 from a direct port setup and only utilized the one combo (NOS/Fuel) jet. Do you know exactly which one it was from?
which kit or which jet sizes were used ?

i assuming you used an 80 shot direct port, and only used the 1 jet combo of the 4 !!
that makes sense!!!! pretty damn cool!!!!

csufweed

hmm... you can use the hondata head gasket to reduce heat soak, as well as the water injector to drastically reduce intake temps... cooler air is denser air, therefore you will produce more power.

I dont know exactly how you are able to run 12 psi, but the blower is only recommended at 10psi. I would imagine that the engine temperatures are extremely hot at this point and you may be better off reducing boost to increase the efficiency of the blower.

But as far as just adding things on, look at the first paragraph. That should help immensely! If you wanna go crazy... Hondata.


[Modified by csufweed, 8:56 PM 3/4/2002]

B18C-EJ1

This what my buddy used.

1- Nos dry shot fogger (blue one on far left)



1- NOS solenoid #16020



And 1 .014 jet.

no extra fuel, or fuel pressure. A 20 shot is just too little to make a difference in power, but when the nitrous oxide hits the hot parts of the rotor, the chemical bond releases, and the nitrogen cools the metal parts, and the oxygen gets burned up in the combustion process.

csufweed

oh yeah and i have seen guys with a 6psi supercharged B18C hatch run times close to yours, so you must be really suffering from heat... do you have an AEM CAI?? every lil bit helps... and make sure you run high octane race gas for your runs and you should be able to advance your timing safely. What was it set at for that run? If you have it retarded as recommended, then you will lose like 20 hp or so... advance it from 8 to 18 degrees and i guarantee a difference in power, assuming that you dont get detonation. Just work with it and see how far you can push it.