Nihilation

Setup:
GSR with Greddy 18G kit that I bought here-https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=903139
Hondata S100b(programed with 440cc basemap)
440cc injectors
255lph high pressure fuel pump
Wastegate actuator at the stock 5.5psi setting
Greddy Type-S bov

I checked the installation of the 18G kit on a GSR at this URL-http://www.deepstaged.net/turbogsr.htm but saw nothing of the problems I have.

-First off on my Greddy manifold to the left of the dipstick I have a hole in my manifold that looked as though it was for an EGT gauge, so I plugged it with a bolt. Is this normal for GSR kits?

-Next, on my intake charge pipe there is a nipple before the BOV flange, right after the pipe comes up from where the stock intake filter would be positioned. What is that for? The shop that installed the kit is using it as a vacuum source for the BOV and WG. I'm pretty sure that's wrong.

-Also, my BOV is nearly hitting the shock tower...its close enough that i can not adjust the screw on top.

-The shop that installed the kit said the car felt extremely weak and as if the turbo doesn't spool till 6k. I drove it at WOT once and it felt as if it was stock, with a little kick at ~6k. The BOV either did not go off or the open downpipe was so loud that I could not hear it. I'm guessing it could be that the its because the BOV must have vacuum source to work.

-HKS boost gauge is not yet installed, installing tomorrow, so I don't even know if I am seeing any boost at all yet.

-The shop did not install my 255lph pump, so I installed that this morning. Could that have been the reason the car felt like a turd? I'd like to hope that this was the main problem.

I don't want to run WOT untuned in order to test if its working properly, however I need to get the car ready for tuning on Monday. Are there other ways to tell if something is wrong without the car seeing boost?

MachAF

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nihilation &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

-The shop did not install my 255lph pump, so I installed that this morning. Could that have been the reason the car felt like a turd? I'd like to hope that this was the main problem.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

No.

Either the problem is a tuning issues or the turbo is shot.

I would use the brake booster line at the vacuum source, but if I'm pictureing what you are saying correctly then you setup should work fine.

get your boost gauge installed and get your exhaust installed.

You must posts pics. words do nothing.

Sprockets

iTrader: (6)

I'm so pissed. I replied to all your questions, then a fuse blew and I have no UPS on the downstairs PC!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nihilation &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

-First off on my Greddy manifold to the left of the dipstick I have a hole in my manifold that looked as though it was for an EGT gauge, so I plugged it with a bolt. Is this normal for GSR kits?

There should be 2 bolt holes to hold the heat shield in place, otherwise it's not stock.

-Next, on my intake charge pipe there is a nipple before the BOV flange, right after the pipe comes up from where the stock intake filter would be positioned. What is that for? The shop that installed the kit is using it as a vacuum source for the BOV and WG. I'm pretty sure that's wrong.

I'm assuming you bought the kit used because Greddy kits don't come with BOV flanges. My guess is that the person who owned the kit before you ran the valve cover breather hose to that nipple, instead of after the filter, before the turbo. There should be a hole with a grommet for the IAT sensor after the filter unless GSRs have their IAT sensors in the manifold like ITRs. There should be a nipple after the filter to run a hose from the valve cover. Stock Greddy kits don't have any holes or flanges on the charge pipe. The shop that used this as a "vacuum" source doesn't know what they're doing. Do like MachAF said and T off of the brake booster, then run this line to a vacuum manifold like Golden Eagle's.

-Also, my BOV is nearly hitting the shock tower...its close enough that i can not adjust the screw on top.

The person who owned the kit before had it welded in the wrong place.

-The shop that installed the kit said the car felt extremely weak and as if the turbo doesn't spool till 6k. I drove it at WOT once and it felt as if it was stock, with a little kick at ~6k. The BOV either did not go off or the open downpipe was so loud that I could not hear it. I'm guessing it could be that the its because the BOV must have vacuum source to work.

Open downpipe on a Greddy? That's crazy. You shouldn't be boosting on a basemap. Take it to another shop.

-HKS boost gauge is not yet installed, installing tomorrow, so I don't even know if I am seeing any boost at all yet.

-The shop did not install my 255lph pump, so I installed that this morning. Could that have been the reason the car felt like a turd? I'd like to hope that this was the main problem.

You need to take it to someone who tunes Hondata. Don't boost!

I don't want to run WOT untuned in order to test if its working properly, however I need to get the car ready for tuning on Monday. Are there other ways to tell if something is wrong without the car seeing boost? </TD></TR></TABLE>

BTW, I seem to recall you were going to tune it at Inlinepro? Your avatar looks familiar. I REALLY hope it wasn't them!

edit...Obviously my last statement was a joke. Inlinepro knows their ****. I wasn't really suggesting that they'd screw up this bad.

Nihilation

It was not inlinePro that did the install.

Sprockets

iTrader: (6)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nihilation &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It was not inlinePro that did the install.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know. It was a joke. Read my last statement.

Nihilation

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16A Grenade &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I know. It was a joke. Read my last statement.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know. Just stating so that other people don't assume it may have been.

99blusi

I'm guessing the nipple is for the valve cover vent, but that's wrong, it should be in the filter part of the pipe. Not anywhere it could see boost.

Nihilation

I routed the wg actuator to the nipple on the charge pipe, then the BOV tapped into the vacuum line on the fpr. Car seems to sound better. I can hear the turbo spooling at least when revving in neutral.

mod5

I was the previous owner of this kit.

Answers to your questions:

-First off on my Greddy manifold to the left of the dipstick I have a hole in my manifold that looked as though it was for an EGT gauge, so I plugged it with a bolt. Is this normal for GSR kits?

**This mainfold was tapped for the use of a EGT probe. You can just use a bolt to cover the hole. The GReddy manifold actually has three small bolts that holds the cover in place (2 on the top & one towards the bottom of the cover)

-Next, on my intake charge pipe there is a nipple before the BOV flange, right after the pipe comes up from where the stock intake filter would be positioned. What is that for? The shop that installed the kit is using it as a vacuum source for the BOV and WG. I'm pretty sure that's wrong.

**The charge pipe is installed backwards!! The BOV flange is suppose to be facing up. The nipple 'after' (when the charge pipe is positioned correctly) the BOV flange was for a boost controller. If you're not using a boost controller you can just cap it. That nipple on the charge pipe shouldn't be used as a vacuum point.

-Also, my BOV is nearly hitting the shock tower...its close enough that i can not adjust the screw on top.

**(See above)

-The shop that installed the kit said the car felt extremely weak and as if the turbo doesn't spool till 6k. I drove it at WOT once and it felt as if it was stock, with a little kick at ~6k. The BOV either did not go off or the open downpipe was so loud that I could not hear it. I'm guessing it could be that the its because the BOV must have vacuum source to work.

**Don't worry, the turbo was 'live and kicking' when it was uninstalled (It's not shot). I would "T" the vacuum source from the FPR and have another 'T' going to the BOV(I think that was what I did...). Try not to drive WOT until you're fully tuned. BTW stock boost level is 7psi.

-HKS boost gauge is not yet installed, installing tomorrow, so I don't even know if I am seeing any boost at all yet.

**You should definately get a boost gauge.

-The shop did not install my 255lph pump, so I installed that this morning. Could that have been the reason the car felt like a turd? I'd like to hope that this was the main problem.

**Good job.

I don't want to run WOT untuned in order to test if its working properly, however I need to get the car ready for tuning on Monday. Are there other ways to tell if something is wrong without the car seeing boost?

**You should see boost now.



Modified by mod5 at 4:16 PM 7/23/2004

Nihilation

Does the wastegate have to be connected to a vacuum source?

And I noticed there is a small 90 degree bent pipe with a nipple on it as well. I haven't noticed that piece on the car yet either. Is there a purpose for that nipple?

mod5

Yes, the wastegate has to be connected to a vacuum source.

As for the '90 degree bend with the nipple' pipe, the nipple is for the valve cover vent.