Hawjap1gsr

Hi honda-tech. I am out of mind of what to use now. My car drives fine over the summer in oklahoma over 105 degree weather. but at the time i was using a Misimoto 60* Thermostat which is about 140 F. now that the temps is getting colder here. the thermostat would not warm to normal on a 40 degree night. i drive a good 30 to work and back. morning time it would take 10 to 15 minute of driving to get it in normal temps. at cold nights. is a nightmare. it stays at 140 with my s300 and laptop datalogging on the drive home. So i figure i would just put on a duralast 180 F Thermostat. temps operate good and normal in cold days. but now i cant WOT my car. seem like after a pull threw 3,4 gear. my cars temps jumps up so high and its getting to 220 on my laptop when datalogging. i usally shut the car off and let it cool down. once i open the hood. coolin would be push to the resvior and fill up and overflow there. i have a cx radiator and this happen before on my Misimoto 60* Thermostat. but only little. and i could do about four runs on the highway and top out my 5th gear everything before i have to stop and refill it back into my radiator. but now with the 180 F. this thing over flow in one pull not even threw all gear. This other night i race a gt500 cobra and at midway threw my 5th gear. my top radiator hose splite in half. i shut the car off right away. no damage was done to the motor. got it replace with a new dayco hose from advance auto zone. but on normal driving i can see the hose already starting to sollow up too.

Here are my ?
1. Should i change out the radiator to new different one? Which one and why? CX racing is current one.
2. Which Thermostat is everyone using in there gsr turbo and is not having problem?
3. Which radiator hose should i use? I found a skunk 2 one that i was thinking of getting.
4. Will the 14" slim fan work better and any recommadation for a good slim fan?

NOTE: the car have a Big FMIC the cover the whole front. so the radiator doesnt get much air flow.

This is the built thread on this car. driven 10,xxx miles on this setup already.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/semi-built-gsr-turbo-sc61-2778038/
Thanks guys

dpetro1

stick with an OE t-stat. did you bleed the system properly after you swapped the t-stat? are both radiator hoses getting equally hot? what is your current fan setup? do you have a shroud?

EDIT:also the symptoms kind of sound like you could be pushing coolant from headlift or a headgasket issue.

madblkscientist

buy a stock t*stat and a stock radiator cap with a lil high psi rating if coolant is bypassing your resevoir

Hawjap1gsr

i am about to order a oem termostat tonight and test it out. the system was bleed properly too. just the top one is getting hot and sollowing up. i have the 12" slim fan from ebay. i dont have a shroud. do i need one?

Hawjap1gsr

i though of getting a 1.3 pressure cap because mine is 1.1 but then this cxracing radiator one. the 92-95 civic or 94-01 integra dont fit. i have to try a older civic or DA integra but then no one i know have one that i could try. also i call cxracing and they said that mine should be the 1.3 pressure. but i dont think it is. because it dont say anything on the cap.

dpetro1

well if just the top hose is getting hot then to me that would signal the t-stat is not opening. either it failed or there is air in the system. get a new oem t-stat ans re-bleed the system. i dont really thing you need a higher pressure cap.

Hawjap1gsr

I just went to honda and got a new termostat and also honda type 2 coolant. put it on this morning and took it for a test drive with my laptop. 3rd and 4th gear pull and the car is getting hot again like usuall. so i pull over and let it cool down. start driving again and temps drop. but after a quick pull again temps goes up again. the side resivor is getting fill up fast again too. I would like to try the oem integra radiator again but then my turbo is in the way. but maybe this thursday i am going to try it out. grind my frame and little and see how this goes. i am tire of having to see this happen after every pull.

kyden

sounds like you got a popped headgasket/headlift.

Hawjap1gsr

if i change the head gasket woould this change. as for head lift i got arp head stud that are torqe down to 80 ftlbs. but at the same time my coolant does have some black partical that looks like head gasket piece.

madblkscientist

try turning on ur car with the cap off then rev it a lil if no coolant blows out the filler hole then u might have a bad water pump or bad rad

Hawjap1gsr

i will try this out. the water pump is a new oem gsr pump. i am not sure that would be the problem. i am thinking its my radiator. at the same time if my head gasket was blown. wouldnt i be smoking a lot? then again. my car doesnt even smoke?

madblkscientist

no it wont neccessarilly smoke cause my civic was running fine with a blown headgasket except it overheats cause it pushed all the fluid out when parked so to make sure it was the headgasket i took the rad cap off and turned on the car and fluid came fliing out but the car didn't smoke

Hawjap1gsr

ok. at idle and normal driving my coolant never overflow. only when its push then its like a volcone exploding to the resiover. how do i know that its my head gasket? leak down test?

lsturbo33

Sounds like headgasket. Do a leakdown test first. Also, I had a half size aluminum radiator on my 97 ls-t integra and it would overheat on the highway due to lack of airflow.

Hawjap1gsr

try it out and coolant pressure out when i rev.

Hawjap1gsr

i am thinking of modifeding my integra full size radiator to see if this helps.

Hawjap1gsr

Updated. i turn my boost down to 14psi on 91 pump again and the problem went away. i can do a lot of pulls with no overheating issue. when my car was over heating of pulls. it was at 20psi on e85. Could my head be lifting at high boost? also what leak down tool is the best that everyone is using?

00siboy

iTrader: (3)

maybe a noob question but why e85?

Hawjap1gsr

cheaper and had a octane rating of 104 or 105 compare to 91 pump and also cheaper where i live. 2.39 a gallon compare to 2.79 for 91 pump. runs cooler in the cylinder and cleaner. more timing can be achieve to make power also. but for my set up for some reason my tuner didnt even advance my timing.

00siboy

iTrader: (3)

ok thnx for the info

madblkscientist

if u rev a lil and coolant comes out then u might have a headgasket sealing problem or ur head is a lil warped and cant seal properly but if it went away ride it out until it comes back

Hawjap1gsr

the head and block is both mill before install. i am thinking its my gasket. but at the same time on 14psi it doesnt over heat. now i am back up to 20psi and testing it out again.

madblkscientist

do u have some type of pcv system installed and recheck the tourqe on the headbolts

also is the rad fluid 50/50 or 70/30 water/fluid

Hawjap1gsr

no i dont have some types of pcv system. the radiator fluid are honda type 2 fluid. i will recheck the head bolts.

Avtarios

I know this is an old thread but anyone else that has this problem then they should change or check the Engine Coolant Temp. Switch (Located where the T-Stat is) I had the same issue and now I don't...hope that helps.

Cheers