Freshdot

so as some or most of you know, my freshly built, freshly tuned motor has pushed coolant just hours after the dyno session. the motor in question is a d16z6, I have had this problem with all 3 of my setups. every headgasket has been OEM and every stud was TQ'd as per ARP instruction.

I was sent another tune with 4-5 degrees of timing removed. and I'm replacing this head gasket tomorrow. I will also be purchasing a straight edge to check both the head and block to see if they are true, as i did have a few moments of 215 degree temps show their ugly face. if all is well in that regard then in will go the new headgasket. new coolant, and an hour long bleeding session.

my plan of attack is as follows.

1. remove head, check with straight edge along with block.

2. if all is well install new OEM HG and torque to 60ft lb as per ARP specs. what i do is tighten my studs with an allen wrench until snug, then proceed to follow honda's sequence in 20/40/60ft lb increments.

3. bring the motor to normal operating temperature, pull the valve cover and torque studs to 65ft lb. I was going to just recheck for 60, but i feel like that will accomplish nothing.

4. take the car out throw it a beating, hopefully see no signs of headlift, and enjoy her from here on out.

5. if i fail again..be on the lookout for a for sale thread. or trade me your H22 swap.


anyone have any tips or tricks for me to avoid failure? my boy mentioned cooper spray but i'm trying to stay away from it.

mafia

Was your head or block ever resurfaced? And make sure bock and head are straight.

are you using arp lube on threads?

Btw I never re-torqued my head studs after I installed my head.

DDTECH

needs to be resurfaced..