buttsneeze

i recently installed a C&R racing aluminum radiator and now the car overheats. Any suggestions? With the stock radiator i could let it run forever and it wouldn't overheat........What kinds of steps or things should i be checking?

BodyKits NW

Maybe you got some air in the system.

SOHC_MShue

word. Bleed the system if you didn't

buttsneeze

i'll bleed tomorrow (i would figure my mechanics would have done that, though)......and we'll see what happens from there......thanks guys.

SHystrdyGSRtdy

how is your fan setup? is it like how it used to be (in the engine bay?) or is your fan outside of the engine bay now/on the other side of the radiator?

check out the advice in this thread:
https://honda-tech.com/zero...99940

buttsneeze

the fan is how it used to be (inside the engine bay), although it is a new, smaller one.......i would hope that my mechanice would know to buy a puller when they replaced the fan, but you never know. I'll be checking that out tomorrow, too.

buttsneeze

i took the radiator cap off and let the car get to operating temp today. Definitely saw bubbling, so i bled the system and i'm quite sure i got all of the air out. I also checked the fan and it is in proper working order and pulling air the correct way and what not. ............. The car is still overheating, though?????? What should i check next?

SHystrdyGSRtdy

what is your setup? maybe try 80% water 20% coolant (depending on your location) w/ 2 DROPS of dishwashing liquid (redline water wetter substitute)

edit: you're in VA and since it's almost spring and if it doesn't get REALLY cold you can try that... but make sure to go back to 40% coolant / 60% water or whatever when winter comes around again

buttsneeze

i think it might be about 80/20 plus a bottle of water wetter.......it was warm today (for VA)....but it overheated night before last and it was only like 40 degrees outside......

SHystrdyGSRtdy

what's your setup? motor/FI and all....

is your coolant reservoir overflowing?

buttsneeze

my setup is b18b (stock head, everything was done to the block except for sleeves, new oem honda headgasket and arp head studs, drag gen 3 turbo kit........i did change other things the same day i changed out the stock radiator (rc 750's, uberdata, dual-stage turboxs boost controller and tial wastegate....but i don't think they would be a culprit)

My reservoir isn't overflowing........

I was running on uber b4 i changed this stuff, and on the stock radiator i could let it idle for a long *** time and it wouldn't overheat. there is another problem besides this overheating issue, but i'm not sure if they are related or not. I can't get my car to stay running for nothing, no matter how much i mess with the idle screw and adjust the idle. Car runs fine but as soon as i take it outta gear, rpms drop fast and the car dies. This sh*t is starting to get annoying, because my car ran perfectly fine before, and after changing out the radiator and fuel injectors, and then another uber map......now my car overheats and won't even stay running. WTF?!?!! maybe it's my uberdata map. Not to mention that I was gonna change out the map sensor for a 2 bar, but the guy couldn't get it working with uberdata, so i still got the stock map sensor........and i know a 2bar works with uber...........I NEED HELP.


Modified by buttsneeze at 8:15 PM 4/5/2005

SHystrdyGSRtdy

hmmm... not headgasket, no air in system... i don't know how your ubermap can make your car overheat though your car dies? how heavy is your flywheel? your tuner can't get uber working right?

buttsneeze

clutchmaster lightweight flywheel & c.m. stage 3 clutch.

not much of a tune really.......no wideband was involved

i'm getting neptuned the 15th, if my car will make it there......

SHystrdyGSRtdy

you tuned your turbo'd motor w/ built block etc. without a wideband? how'd you guys do that?

buttsneeze

it's untuned......just a base map i guess. They said they couldn't get the wideband o2 to work in my downpipe, but i guess they just didn't try hard enough or didn't have enough time......so i just decided to order a plx myself and install it permanently before i get my car dyno tuned the 15th

anyways, i'm not trying to down my mechanics in no shape or form.....it's just that the whole project is just starting to give me a headache.......and the new 'bug' in my car (this go round) is REALLY annoying.........


Modified by buttsneeze at 10:34 PM 4/5/2005

SHystrdyGSRtdy

who made your basemap? hmm.. bump for a solution for your overheating car

buttsneeze

the shop i always go to has a new guy (new employee as like a few months or so, but friend of theirs for years) and he deals with uberdata. I have no idea where or how he came across my particular map. I'm not really a diy'er, so i just let them handle most of my stuff. That's a big part in why i'm willing to switch to neptune, since it's not for the diy type person anyways........

Cray91

Not totally on topic, but you don't really need to run water wetter if you are running coolant.

The water wetter is more for guys running straight water in warmer climates

stackz

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by buttsneeze &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my setup is b18b (stock head, everything was done to the block except for sleeves, new oem honda headgasket and arp head studs, drag gen 3 turbo kit........i did change other things the same day i changed out the stock radiator (rc 750's, uberdata, dual-stage turboxs boost controller and tial wastegate....but i don't think they would be a culprit)

My reservoir isn't overflowing........

I was running on uber b4 i changed this stuff, and on the stock radiator i could let it idle for a long *** time and it wouldn't overheat. there is another problem besides this overheating issue, but i'm not sure if they are related or not. I can't get my car to stay running for nothing, no matter how much i mess with the idle screw and adjust the idle. Car runs fine but as soon as i take it outta gear, rpms drop fast and the car dies. This sh*t is starting to get annoying, because my car ran perfectly fine before, and after changing out the radiator and fuel injectors, and then another uber map......now my car overheats and won't even stay running. WTF?!?!! maybe it's my uberdata map. Not to mention that I was gonna change out the map sensor for a 2 bar, but the guy couldn't get it working with uberdata, so i still got the stock map sensor........and i know a 2bar works with uber...........I NEED HELP.


Modified by buttsneeze at 8:15 PM 4/5/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>

you said earlier, you saw bubbling in the radiator? how bad? a blown gasket will cause the water to bubble in the cap (bad cases it will spew out).

Um, having trouble idling the car? try going back to the stock ecu/fuel injector setup just to let the car crank up and run so you can check to see if the car continues to overheat.

I'm betting the timing is just waayyy off on that "map" you've got and you're probably just too advanced to idle properly and its also causing you to run too hot.

does the turbo get super hot, super quick?

buttsneeze

the bubbling wasn't that bad, but enough to let me know there was air in the system. I am of course scared of the "worst case scenario", but I don't show any other signs of a blown headgasket. I'm not losing any coolant, i don't see it in my oil, my car isn't burning white smoke, etc.........

I think much of it has to do with the uberdata map i'm using, including the iacv slider, the timing, and the fuel. I'll check the t-stat tomorrow and go from there i guess.......

As far as the turbo getting really hot, really fast........i've never noticed or payed attention......so i can't really answer that question. I'll check that out, too.

*One more thing, i was talking to one of my friends today about this. Could it be possible that the new radiator sits so low (such as too low compared to the head) and this is making hard for me to get all of the air out? I mean, it looks like it's in a normal place and it looks just fine to me, so i'll have to post a pic tomorrow and so you guys can see what i'm talking about.........


Modified by buttsneeze at 1:41 PM 4/6/2005

buttsneeze

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slow poke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well you’re flooding the engine and that’s why its stalling. You need to turn down the fuel at idle. GET THE WIDEBAND

I still think you may have air in your system if your fan is coming on properly and you’re sure the T-stat is opening and closing properly.
You can obviously tell if the fan is coming on.
For the stat testing, you should be able to feel the top hose get warm and the bottom hose stay cool. Then the stat should open and the bottom hose should get warmer. If this is not the case then pull out the stat, put it in a pot of water and stick it on the stove. It should open before the water boils

If you found allot of air there is a good chance there is more. You need the t-stat to open to get all the air out. That is why most motors have the little nipple right before the stat. Try jacking up the car in the front a bit, take off the cap, and just run it for a bit. Don’t let it overheat but let it warm up and run for like 20min's. Fill with water and make sure you don’t see any bubbles. Drive it around for a bit and do it again.

If the stat is good, the thermo-switch is good (turns on the fan), and your sure there is no more air in the block, then try running it w/o the stat in and watch the water in the rad and make sure you see it moving around in there to verify that the water pump is flowing.

Hope this helps
</TD></TR></TABLE>


my car is hard to start after it dies.......so it probably IS getting flooded. I'll check a the spark plugs tomorrow, too..........but i'm off to work now!

soon2b

If it is flooding bad enough to stall the car and cut it off, I would be careful if it floods it to much it could wash the cylinder walls.

buttsneeze

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slow poke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you found allot of air there is a good chance there is more. You need the t-stat to open to get all the air out. That is why most motors have the little nipple right before the stat. Try jacking up the car in the front a bit, take off the cap, and just run it for a bit. Don’t let it overheat but let it warm up and run for like 20min's. Fill with water and make sure you don’t see any bubbles. Drive it around for a bit and do it again.</TD></TR></TABLE>

duh, i wasn't even paying attention when you said to jack the front up a bit before i bleed the system......that makes perfect sense (if the radiator sits too low). Thanks! I will do that tomorrow!

i3oricua

You said you got all the bubbles out and then bled the system? If you ran the car with the cap off, then bled the system, you're right back to where you started. Run the car with the cap off, let the bubbles get out. Refill with more mix if it needs it (which I'm sure it will) Turn the car on again, no more bubbles, shouldn't be anymore overheating. I got tired of reading, so if this has been said already, I apologize, just wanna make sure your car is running good.

buttsneeze

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by i3oricua &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You said you got all the bubbles out and then bled the system? If you ran the car with the cap off, then bled the system, you're right back to where you started. Run the car with the cap off, let the bubbles get out. Refill with more mix if it needs it (which I'm sure it will) Turn the car on again, no more bubbles, shouldn't be anymore overheating. I got tired of reading, so if this has been said already, I apologize, just wanna make sure your car is running good.</TD></TR></TABLE>

wait, are you saying that i should bleed the system with the cap on? what i did was bleed the system while the cap is off, after no more bubbles i closed the bleeder valve, filled up and then put the cap back on and drove the car a bit. I've seen some people not even use the bleeder valve, just run the car with the cap off and squeeze the hoses. Can it be done like that also?