birz

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

As you may know my car is not running since 4 days cause it just doesn't start up anymore.

my setup: Civic 92 shell, B18B1 (forged pistons & rods) engine, TD04HL turbo, 450cc DSM injectors, SMC+ fuel hack, ECU is a P06 flashed with a basemap of the B18B.

description of the problem:

My car was running flawlessly until 4 days . It always started good on the first key turn. but that day it started up like usual and died the second after, since then it never started up again, not even bucking, you only hear the starter and that's it. So I tried to investigate, fuel pump, spark plug, distributor, rotor, etc.. I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key to the ON position, dont have a fuel pressure gauge though, but I think it's more related to the ignition. I removed the spark plugs and they were wet and they smell the fuel a lot, I tried to start up the car with one spark in the wire and grounded on the engine and there was no spark. Here are some pics of the distributor cap, rotor and spark plugs. tell me if it could be the reason please, or guide me to what&how next to check. maybe ECU main relay

EDIT: theres no engine code, and could my MSD BTM be in relation to the problem??








Modified by birz at 11:24 PM 5/4/2004


Modified by birz at 12:02 AM 5/7/2004

sporkcrx

Jesus christ nice camara. That rotor looks a lil rusty to me, I'd replace that and the cap for the hell of it. But bump for you, I'm interested as well.

norcalcrx

I would deffinately replace the cap, rotor, and plugs. How old are the plug wires? More then likely it is a distributor problem though. Have you tested the distributor?

birz

no I didnt test the distributor yet,, but how do I check it??, the plugs are only 2000KM old and IMO they look fine. I definetly need a multimeter btw the car doesnt buck,, it just dont start at all,,, and there was NO spark either when I tested it could a worn rotor and distributor do that???

DaX

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by birz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and there was NO spark either when I tested it could a worn rotor and distributor do that???</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes. Replace the cheap parts first...get a new rotor and cap.

When trouble shooting why your car won't start, remember it only needs four things - air, fuel, spark, and compression. If it isn't starting, you're not getting one of these.

birz

to replace the rotor is there a particualr procedure?? is it simple to do???

DaX

iTrader: (1)

There is one screw. You have to bump the ignition over until the screw is where you can get to it. Then it just slides right off the shaft [sometimes they get frozen on there though]. Installation is reverse of removal. Just make sure you don't put it on 180 degrees off...i.e. - make sure you remember how the old one was on before you take it off.

sporkcrx

yes, there's just a screw or allen nut type thing holding it on.

edit: beaten to it

rondigs

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
When trouble shooting why your car won't start, remember it only needs four things - air, fuel, spark, and compression. If it isn't starting, you're not getting one of these.</TD></TR></TABLE> Reminds me of something we learned in nursing school. Always focus on the ABC's (airway, breathing, and circulation).

In regards to the issue at hand... check ALL the wires for the MSD. Trace the wires from the MSD to the distributer, inside the distributer, and to the plug wires. It is not uncommon for a wire to come loose. Also, make sure all the contact surfaces are clean. You can lightly sand some of the points and connectors to ensure conductivity.

My guess is that a wire can loose some where.

99blackcivicSi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
When trouble shooting why your car won't start, remember it only needs four things - air, fuel, spark, and compression. If it isn't starting, you're not getting one of these.</TD></TR></TABLE>

5 Things you forgot about correct timing

Br1t1shguy

The MSD has burned you're rotor, happens pretty often. They're cheap, get a few, you'll need em.

Thats fuel on the plugs, they'll turn white again once it's actually burning stuff.

P.S. I make no guarantees on the above solution, but it happens allll the time

gobeforeshow

check your ignition coil, that what haapen to mind, change it out and the problem fix!!!!!!!

birz

tomorrow I'll have a multimeter so I will bew able to check the coil, spark wires, and distributor. it should give me the answer, at least I hope

stay tuned for my pathetic adventure

racerxadam

no spark and noone has mentioned a possible ignitor problem? honda ignitors suck

DaX

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99blackcivicSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

5 Things you forgot about correct timing</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I guess you could make it five, but I kind of file "timing" under spark.

birz

anyway the problem is not the timing as I dont get any spark.

Snail Tuning

i had the same thing happen in my b16 teg. rotor went bad. and fouled out my plugs, replace the rotor, cap, and plugs, and it should fire right up.

tgreaves

Funny thing there.. Thats exactly what my plugs look like on my boosted d16y7 motor.. And thats what my rotor looks like also..

MaxBoost

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racerxadam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no spark and noone has mentioned a possible ignitor problem? honda ignitors suck</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont know how no one mention's this... happens all the time on honda's...check your ignitor, and replace it if necessary from one from a working car. They break all the time, there are several different brands of ignitors that come in honda's, some better then others... i dont remember which is best though.

B18C4-T

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racerxadam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no spark and noone has mentioned a possible ignitor problem? honda ignitors suck</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's my guess. I carry a spare w/ me. I usually burn about one a year with the MSD.

birz

I have tested the ICM and the COIL with a multimeter today here are the results:

COIL:

between terminal A and B = 0.00 it should be between 0.6 & 0.8 but I also tested on a brand new coil and it was the same result, so I figured out that it might be the multimeter that is not enough sensitive.

between terminal A and the secondary terminal = 15.44 so I'm within the specs, specs are between 12.8 & 19.2


ICM:

I have voltage (11.xx) between BLK/YEL wire and body ground.

I have NO voltage at all between wire WHT/BLU and body ground, but this wire doesnt come from the coil like it is shown in the picture, mine come from my MSD BTM,,, so maybe it's normal that I dont have any voltage?? or maybe I should get voltage even if it's routed like that?? HELP AGAIN plz

birz

please I need that problem to be solved by friday

birz

could the BTM be in relation with the problem???

again I need this problem solved by friday, in other words, tomorrow

birz

Allllllrrriiiight I finally solved the problem


that was only the rotor, not even the cap!! duuuhhhhh

Tad

congrats.

and yeh.. those are nice pics,
the plugs look brand new man, dont replace em.

but u probly wont anyways

make sure your BTM is functioning properly,
i wonder why your rotor would all of a sudden give out.