quick1racer

10 seconds or bust!!!!! 10 seconds or bust!!!! 10 seconds or bust!!!!

i need some advice on any problems i may occur.
i have a b18a= eagle rods ross 9.5:1 pistons 81.5mm
b16 head= p&p by alaniz skunk2 valve train
skunk2 stage 2 cams (i know they are for all motor i converted from NA)
ITR intake manifold with 70 mm tb
h22 injectors(i think 310cc)
walbro intake fuel pump
apex VAFC with gm 3 bar map sensor
my turbo set up is from sparks racing:::
turbonetics t3 t4
blitz bov 8 lb. wastegaste

nitrous set up::: for track use only!!!!! haven't used it!!!
first stage single nozzle 50 shot
second stage 80 shot direct port

i just got it started and i am having so many dam problems i felling like taking off the dam turbo

my first problem was the map sensor so i converted to the 3 bar and now the check engine light doesn't come on, but it runs like crap i adjusted the afc to +10 from 1000 to 8000 to get it to run decently, but now it runs like crap on the top end
i was thinking about converting to dsm 450cc would that help

also what exactly will the cams do if i leave them in
i have some gsr cams i will eventually put in

vortech fmu not installed (should i)

standalone engine mgt is out of the picture right now so i need some advice on what to do to make it run good with what i have
thanks

Lucky_Smurf

I'm not sure about running a 3 bar without management. I don't think the voltage matches with the stock map sensor. This could be causing you some problems. Granted the check engine light is off but still. If you're not going with a stand alone yet a missing link wouldn't be a bad idea. If you can afford it I'd take it to a shop and do a dyno pull or two to see what AFR's your getting. That'll help a lot.

RedTegLS

You have to have some sort of fuel management. If thats all you have install the FMU and get some bigger injectors. Yours a worth something to sell.

Burke

you are gonna max those injectors out quick. prolly before you hit 12's

*Boostwerks*

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quick1racer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> 10 seconds or bust!!!!! 10 seconds or bust!!!! 10 seconds or bust!!!!

i need some advice on any problems i may occur.
skunk2 stage 2 cams (i know they are for all motor i converted from NA)
ITR intake manifold with 70 mm tb
h22 injectors(i think 310cc)
walbro intake fuel pump
apex VAFC with gm 3 bar map sensor
my turbo set up is from sparks racing:::
turbonetics t3 t4
blitz bov 8 lb. wastegaste

nitrous set up::: for track use only!!!!! haven't used it!!!
first stage single nozzle 50 shot
second stage 80 shot direct port

i just got it started and i am having so many dam problems i felling like taking off the dam turbo

my first problem was the map sensor so i converted to the 3 bar and now the check engine light doesn't come on, but it runs like crap i adjusted the afc to +10 from 1000 to 8000 to get it to run decently, but now it runs like crap on the top end
i was thinking about converting to dsm 450cc would that help

also what exactly will the cams do if i leave them in
i have some gsr cams i will eventually put in

vortech fmu not installed (should i)

standalone engine mgt is out of the picture right now so i need some advice on what to do to make it run good with what i have
thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>

Everything in bold needs to either be thrown out the window, or replaced.

quick1racer

i am going to use the nitrous for most of my speed on my e t goal not the turbo. i want my set up to be streetable.
with my old set up b20vtec stock internals, but same cams, tb, itr manifolds, etc.
i pulled a 12.4 @ 115 with only a 50 shot single fogger nitrous system
i am adding intenals a 80 shot direct port nitrous system, and a dam turbo!!!
AND YOU ARE TELLING ME I WILL NOT RUN AT LEAST A 10.99

Modified by quick1racer at 4:19 AM 12/3/2003


Modified by quick1racer at 4:20 AM 12/3/2003

Burke

your motor will prolly go lean and blow halfway down the track if you dont get some bigger injectors and real fuel management

*Boostwerks*

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quick1racer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i am going to use the nitrous for most of my speed on my e t goal not the turbo. i want my set up to be streetable.
with my old set up b20vtec stock internals, but same cams, tb, itr manifolds, etc.
i pulled a 12.4 @ 115 with only a 50 shot single fogger nitrous system
i am adding intenals a 80 shot direct port nitrous system, and a dam turbo!!!
AND YOU ARE TELLING ME I WILL NOT RUN AT LEAST A 10.99

Modified by quick1racer at 4:19 AM 12/3/2003


Modified by quick1racer at 4:20 AM 12/3/2003</TD></TR></TABLE>

First of all...

There is a HUGE difference between a 12.4 and a 10.99.

I'm not saying you can't do it, but good luck doing it with those parts you have and making it "last".

RedTegLS

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bryson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

First of all...

There is a HUGE difference between a 12.4 and a 10.99.

</TD></TR></TABLE>
A good rule of thumb is that is takes 100HP or lose 1000lbs to gain a full second at the 1/4 mile. so to do what your saying you need to gain 150 hp or lose some vehicle weight.

quick1racer

are you sure it is 100 hp to take off a second in a et
all motor i had 190 hp and 140 tq and i was running a 13.3
when i added a 50 shot of NOS i ran a 12.4
this was on stock internals and when i pulled the motor out the pistons and rods were still in decent condition.
it is pretty hard to lose a 1000 pounds from an ef hatch!!!!!!

*Boostwerks*

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quick1racer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you sure it is 100 hp to take off a second in a et
all motor i had 190 hp and 140 tq and i was running a 13.3
when i added a 50 shot of NOS i ran a 12.4
this was on stock internals and when i pulled the motor out the pistons and rods were still in decent condition.
it is pretty hard to lose a 1000 pounds from an ef hatch!!!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Getting faster and faster takes an exponential amount of HP.

The closer and closer you get to 10's the more HP it will take compared to the previous best.

In some cases it takes over a 100hp to just get a .5sec quicker.

quick1racer

so how much hp would be necessary to pull a 10 sec. et
i am looking to put out 400 hp with turbo and nitro

*Boostwerks*

400hp is about the bare minimum for a 10sec ET in a street car.

Just make sure you have weight, traction, suspension, and driving taken care of and you'll be there.