I GET MY BUILT B18C BACK TODAY......BRAKE IN PROSSES???
05-05-2006, 01:54 PM
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I GET MY BUILT B18C BACK TODAY......BRAKE IN PROSSES???
Hey guys i get my built b18c 
back today from the shop....what is the best prosses to brake in the motor???? thanks! anything will help!!
back today from the shop....what is the best prosses to brake in the motor???? thanks! anything will help!!
05-05-2006, 04:50 PM
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Re: I GET MY BUILT B18C BACK TODAY......BRAKE IN PROSSES??? (TurboCoop)
05-05-2006, 06:01 PM
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Re: I GET MY BUILT B18C BACK TODAY......BRAKE IN PROSSES??? (eg crunkmonster)
I got 35 miles on my fresh bottom end and all valvetrain. I have babied up until today when I opened her up for a couple seconds.... couldnt resist it. There are so many different methods but I try to stick to the granny method for 500 miles and then change the oil and let her rip. I am running stock ecu, injectors and exhaust just for personal preference.
05-05-2006, 06:04 PM
#5
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Re: I GET MY BUILT B18C BACK TODAY......BRAKE IN PROSSES??? (96 GSR-T)
100-200miles for me on a complete fresh block on stock map and injectors
then dyno tune to 450hp
then dyno tune to 450hp
05-05-2006, 06:21 PM
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To seat the rings you need engine braking, which means revving it up to maybe 5k in a gear (3rd is nice) and then letting the engine slow you back down. Tuning is also key so make sure the fuel and timing is correct. This has been covered so many times it's not even funny, doesn't anybody browse the forums before they do something that's already been done.
05-06-2006, 01:48 PM
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Re: (nonvtecD)
The way i did it (which some may say is over kill) is i drove it around and babied it without the turbo on and at 100 miles i changed the oil, again at 250 then again at 350 which is when i put the turbo on, i put another 150 miles on it which was included in the drive to get it tuned so i had 500 miles on it before i got on it, then when i got back from tuning it i changed the oil again, at around 600 and i havnt changed it since with like 1350 on it now. i just used regular pennzoil 10w-30 for now and it is working fine, next oil change i might switch it over to synthetic or a synthetic blend. not sure which yet. hope it helps
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05-06-2006, 02:38 PM
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wow hondas dont need that many miles. I did 1500 miles, oil change. at 800 i started to shift higher. ever 100 after that, i went up ruffly 1000 Rpm's. I didnt WOT till 1500 miles.
05-06-2006, 02:54 PM
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there was a thread not long ago about engine break in.. someone posted a link to a site talking about hard break in..
what he said is modern honeing tech makes a sort of pattern that is designed to wear down the rings so they seat.. you need high cyl pressure to get the rings to wear evenly.. once the crosshatch pattern is worn down the rings dont wear much more. without high cyl pressure the rings dont push uniformly on the sleves, so they wear unevenly and a small amount of blowby results..
if you ask alot of the big name tuners on here.. alot of the engines they tune are broken in on the dyno.. which means they are recieving high cyl pressures early in their lives..
he also talks about engine braking and how it helps get the metal shavings out the exaust instead of into the oil
do a search and you should find that thread.. its a good read
what he said is modern honeing tech makes a sort of pattern that is designed to wear down the rings so they seat.. you need high cyl pressure to get the rings to wear evenly.. once the crosshatch pattern is worn down the rings dont wear much more. without high cyl pressure the rings dont push uniformly on the sleves, so they wear unevenly and a small amount of blowby results..
if you ask alot of the big name tuners on here.. alot of the engines they tune are broken in on the dyno.. which means they are recieving high cyl pressures early in their lives..
he also talks about engine braking and how it helps get the metal shavings out the exaust instead of into the oil
do a search and you should find that thread.. its a good read
05-06-2006, 03:22 PM
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I was already hitting 7000 RPM in the first 20KMS, and at about 800KMS, I was hitting 9000 and running 12.6 in the 1320 :D
Break it in hard.. The rings like it. lol
Break it in hard.. The rings like it. lol
05-06-2006, 03:30 PM
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Re: (Tchleung)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tchleung »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Break it in hard.. The rings like it. lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed, the problem is the bearing shells don't
Break it in hard.. The rings like it. lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed, the problem is the bearing shells don't
05-06-2006, 03:35 PM
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I just finished breaking in my motor. I got different methods of breaking it in but i did what the shop recommended since they did everything on the car. (So if theres any problems, they wil fix it)
Drive 100 miles then change oil.... drive another 400 miles then change oil.. then another 500 miles change to full synthetic oil. Kept my RPMs below 4K.
Drive 100 miles then change oil.... drive another 400 miles then change oil.. then another 500 miles change to full synthetic oil. Kept my RPMs below 4K.
05-06-2006, 09:53 PM
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my method has always been... Put non-degerent oil in, start it and let it heat cycle a couple times. Shut it down, then drain the oil. New filter, new ND oil. Drive it around for a little bit (50 miles) being easy. Change oil and put in whatever you choose to run (10w-30). And then give a full power tune. After 200 miles, change oil and filter again. Then change oil again after 500 miles.
Also it is important to have a good basemap in it.
Everyone has their own ways of doing it.
Also it is important to have a good basemap in it.
Everyone has their own ways of doing it.
05-06-2006, 10:22 PM
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Re: (dunkd)
I do it similar to dunkd...
1)Pull plugs
2)crank til I get oil pressure
3)install plugs and fire
4)idle check for leaks
5)set ignition timing dead nuts on
6)run up to 3000k and vary rpm by +/- 2k
7)adjust AFR
8)up to temp...shut down
9)cycle up to temp 2-3 times
10)get rough tune on the street
11)drive to dyno
12)dyno tune
13)take to track
14)break something
15)fix
16+ repeat steps 13-16 until broke and then park car and drive your DD until you get enough cash...then repeat 13-16 again.
1)Pull plugs
2)crank til I get oil pressure
3)install plugs and fire
4)idle check for leaks
5)set ignition timing dead nuts on
6)run up to 3000k and vary rpm by +/- 2k
7)adjust AFR
8)up to temp...shut down
9)cycle up to temp 2-3 times
10)get rough tune on the street
11)drive to dyno
12)dyno tune
13)take to track
14)break something
15)fix
16+ repeat steps 13-16 until broke and then park car and drive your DD until you get enough cash...then repeat 13-16 again.
05-07-2006, 05:06 AM
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Re: (nonvtecD)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonvtecD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why is everybody changing oil so much, no need...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Metal shavings, I have an magnetic drain plug but its still not a bad idea..... I mean after oil being so cheap, who cares
Metal shavings, I have an magnetic drain plug but its still not a bad idea..... I mean after oil being so cheap, who cares
05-07-2006, 10:52 AM
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Re: (96 GSR-T)
i change the oil because there are bound to be particles in the oil that shouldn't be there...because I don't have access to a clean room(filtered with updraft benches etc) to build engines.... Not to mention the assembly lube used as well as other oils, synthetics, etc that are in the motor from the different processes. If I had it my way...I'd sonic clean everything...rinse with isobutanol...let dry and then assemble under a hood with some clean tools and all clean gloves...using lint free rags etc.
Anyone ever heard about Cosworth's engine building program? that **** is nutz!
Anyone ever heard about Cosworth's engine building program? that **** is nutz!
05-07-2006, 11:39 AM
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Re: (~RTErnie~)
i changed out the break-in oil today, oil looked good but had some very fine sparkles in it.... nothing o worry about, my whole engine was completely machined from top to bottom, one 1 little micro piece of metal on the magnetic drain and a tiny bit of sludge was on it, probably assembly lube somewhere.
05-07-2006, 12:12 PM
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I have never seen a magnetic drain plug come uot of ANY engine without particles. Always see particles no matter what lol. Now if they are decent sized flakes, then I'd worry, but you will always see a light thin layer of dust almost.
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