Samuels

I'm having similiar problems to what i had last year on really blistering days but its not that hot yet but getting warmer..

I switched from a 30x8x2.5" IC to the precision 600hp and it thicker restricting even more airflow to the radiater.. When cruising it stays under 210 on my water temp guage even while idleing.. When i make a pass at the track sometimes it will go around 220-225 on some passes then at the end of the track go back to normal.. I'm running 22-23 psi on a stock bore 9:1 b16 motor 420hp on c16..

I have the stock style half core radiater.. I have a 12" puller slimfan from Viren,turbo blanket from viren,everything is ceramic coated.. My problem really i believe is my setup my 3" DP is right on the radiater literally touching it.. I have bought a cooling plate and i run 50-50 mix with a half a bottle of water wetter.. My IC pipe also basically fills the whole fog light area of my EG bumper and the whole center section is gone..

I just bought a thermal sleeve from summit the i'm gonna strap around my DP in between the turbo.. I wanted to go with a better radiater and tried to put a thicker mishimoto in thier but the DP will not allow for a thicker radiater..

I also heard about some people possibly relocating thier radiater on the side at a angle has anyone seen this??

And would'nt it be real hard to get air into it??

I'm gonna try the sleeve may even try straight distilled water and a whole bottle of water wetter.. I was also thinking about putting some holesaw holes in the front bumper..

Any ideas i know the really hot days are coming and i wanna get it fixed ASAP..

rmcdaniels

I had similar heat problems at the track, I ended up just getting a better radiator. A Fluidyne half-width did the trick, although my downpipe goes down the other way. Some other stuff that may help:

Thermal barrier coating on your DP (and other turbo parts), this helped a lot cutting down the heat from my turbo manifold, after a few dyno pulls I could comfortably hold my hand less than 1" from my Lovefab ramhorn manifold, before the coating I couldn't get anywhere near it:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1608324


You can also put a half-width radiator on the other side of the car if you've got the clearance. It requires a little work on the brackets, but it's not too hard. Here's one that I put in my EG:

Boosted Chemist

iTrader: (1)

^ why not just get a full length dc rad?

94typeR

^

one is for the supercharger

Boosted Chemist

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94typeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^

one is for the supercharger</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oic now .... cool

Samuels

I do have everything coated and i even put a turbo blanket on it from viren about 3 weeks ago.. I just ordered a high temp barrier from summit that is a sleeve i'm gonna put in between the radiater in DP..

I've tried useing a thicker radiater but it won't work my DP will not allow a thicker radiater.. My turbo also is in the way on drivers side plus it'd be a bitch getting hoses right.. I've heard people mount them at a angle on the passenger side if true i could go with a aftermarket radiater.. Or if i change my setup i could go with a bigger radiater either way i'd like to avoid that option..

just trying to get ideas here is a pic

1158

Do you have a half rad. If you do, do you have something blocking the side with no rad?

Samuels

i don't understand what your asking.. My DP is basically touching my radiater and the IC is blocking alot of the air..

Boosted Chemist

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Samuels &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i don't understand what your asking.. My DP is basically touching my radiater and the IC is blocking alot of the air..</TD></TR></TABLE>

FLip your turbo around.. if u can

1158

If there is nothing blocking the drivers side, next to the rad, air is going to go around the rad, not through it.

Samuels

whatever gets past the IC is going thru my turbo inlet side with filter nothing forcing air back towards radiater..

I'm gonna probably run straight distilled water with a bottle of water wetter.. Put the sleeve in between the radiater and DP..And possibly put some holes in my front bumper with a hole saw just gotta make sure i get them straight..

I'd like to look into mounting a aftermarket radiater on the passenger side at a angle just not sure if it would work without much air going thru it..

1158

Try using some sheet aluminum to block off any space above your intercooler and next to the rad. If you even have some opening your rad will not work nearly as well as it should.

nowtype

Your fan is too small and doesn't move very much air. 14" fan from ebay that moves air is your cheapest fix. Also making some ducting so that the air actually gets to your radiator would be worth the effort.

https://honda-tech.com/zero...02729

abnaasefmb

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nowtype &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your fan is too small and doesn't move very much air. 14" fan from ebay that moves air is your cheapest fix. Also making some ducting so that the air actually gets to your radiator would be worth the effort.

https://honda-tech.com/zero...02729</TD></TR></TABLE>

i got a 14" from summit pulls like 1400-1500cfms works great

RCautoworks

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nowtype &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your fan is too small and doesn't move very much air. 14" fan from ebay that moves air is your cheapest fix. Also making some ducting so that the air actually gets to your radiator would be worth the effort.

https://honda-tech.com/zero...02729</TD></TR></TABLE>

He has a 12 inch, a 14 won't be much better. Make a fan shroud see if that helps. I see a lot of setups where the downpipe is almost touching the radiator and they don't have cooling issues, there also running a smaller intercooler then your ( I would assume ) . So I would say the intercooler is blocking the air, causing the problem. Not saying the downpipe is not the problem also, or lets say its not helping.

rmcdaniels

Would the fan make that much difference as he's going down the track? I'm thinking that the fan would be insignificant compared to the 125+ MPH wind blowing over it.

I'm still thinking that a big aluminum radiator would fix it (mostly because that's what fixed it for me). If the DP just touches a standard radiator, then I'd probably try a Fluidyne and cut a couple of rows out the side of it. The water passages are vertical, so you could probably cut a couple of them out at the side of it and get them welded shut without having too much effect on the radiator.

Samuels

Yeah i'd like to get a aftermarket radiater but i don't wanna change my turbo setup..

I've been told people have relocated them on the side sitting sideways toward the tranny mount, i believe i've even seen a eg in a magazine like that but the airflow to it would be even more limited because its sideways..

i have a 12" puller supposedly 1600cfm from b18turbo on here Viren..

nowtype

His intercooler is huge. 600hp FMIC is very large and very dense core. Higher speeds will still not allow the air to pass through. A fan forces the air out of the radiator. It works 95% of the time. Not to mention its a cheap and easy fix and even if it doesn't remedy the issue, you are still better off with a 14" fan flowing an extra 400cfm over the same brand's 12" fan.

PS: Viren's fans aren't great. They don't flow that much, are too expensive, and overall not a great deal. Ebay fans are the way to go. Get a 14" fan(make sure the dimensions will fit you radiator, not all fans are the same) and see if it fixes your problem. It will only be $40 out of your pocket and you can sell your 12" fan afterwards or run two fans(one pushes, one pulls).

RCautoworks

Of course make sure its wired right, and its a puller. I know one customer had it backwards before but I'm sure you have a grip on that.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would the fan make that much difference as he's going down the track? I'm thinking that the fan would be insignificant compared to the 125+ MPH wind blowing over it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope, not really. An aluminum radiator can't hurt though, neither could a bigger fan.

rmcdaniels

How about cutting a few rows out of an aftermarket radiator?

Samuels

I actually had 1 wired backwards before lol learned my lesson..

It is fine just driving or idleing or even low boost levels..

The problem is high boost at the track or running it hard when its hot out last year even with the same size IC but not has thick it would run alittle warm on the 90+days.. I noticed it on 2 of my passes at the track on 20+psi halfway down the track my water temp was around 220-225 then right at the end it shot back under 210.. That was a 1/8th mile i don't wanna run it like that at nopi in 2 weeks in the 1/4 if its hot out..

I was looking at everything just now my traction bars basically sit up againest my radiater brackets.. My downpipe sits on my radiater basically within a 1/8th inch but its kinda behind it not letting me run a thicker core because it would block it.. It also has kinda bowed or warped the end piece of my radiater it touches from the heat hopefully the heatshield i got will help a ton thier..

I'm thinking maybe trying to put the thick core mishimoto in thier.. I can possibly cut off 1 of my radiater mounts downlow and retack it to my traction bar but the radiater would sit at a angle.. It looks easier to retack the inside mount because the radiater would still be getting some air and i have more room.. My only concern is if it will kink up my samco hoses..

I also have the underneath part of my bumper cut out above the IC letting air go straight up if it wanted to and not thru the IC..

It looks like i could cut some holes in my front bumper with a holesaw and get air directly to my radiater i like the look just nervous about not getting them straight or messing up my paint to much..

purpleh22

Had a similar problem. I already had a Fluidyne radiator and a fan with no shrouding. I used a hole saw to make about 7 holes in the bumper and the problem got better. Later I put a larger shrouded fan in and it improved further. Initially it was bad enough that on 80+ degree days it would overheat on low speed uphill pulls. I also changed over from water wetter to Evans NPG coolant. It's expensive but really works and has been used by racers, truckers and others for years - Doesn't boil until something like 450 and cools better especially on high combustion chamber temp. turbo apps.

Samuels

How big of a hole saw did you use??

I'm probably gonna put this sleeve on the downpipe i got, it should really keep the DP heat off of the radiater alittle..

I'm gonna switch from 50-50 and a half a bottle of water wetter to distilled water with a whole bottle of water wetter..

And i'm seriously think about cutting the holes in the front bumper..

If that don't work i'm gonna have to get creative with a relocation and aftermarket radiater..

eleet

Use exhaust wrap for your dp

CRX T-Si

Wouldn't you benefit from an oil cooler? Didn't see any oil cooler lines so thought I mention that.

Speaking of Fans, IMO this is the baddess for the money. Flows 1650cfms.

http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku