Lenthrax

iTrader: (1)

dam..its frustrating me.. i can't get the oil pan to stop leaking in between the gasket.
1st try- Gasket sealer on 4 corners of pan, gasket was distorted, torqued to 7.5 lbs.. leaked alot
2nd try- Gasket sealer all around, top and bottom of the gasket, gasket was distorted, torqued to 7.5. leaked on the passener side of pan.
3rd try- hondabond on 4 corners, hand tightened, leaked on the passenger side of pan.

got any tips for me?
i also noticed that the pan was a little bit bent, will that make a big differnece?
help me please

Arturbo

I thought it was close to 9ft.lbs...

art

1fstevo

Same problem but no solution. I went through 6 total gasket and one moroso pan and one brand new oem pan on GSR and still have problem today. Before was just like you said seems like leak between gasket. Now, the gasket splits or you can say tears as the car go for test drive. I am suspecting the oem pan is probably distorted. The two bumps that surround every bolt hole is torqued against the bottom of the block and force the bolt hole section bend as you tighten the bolt. Kinda hard to explain but I am going to give one more try with moroso pan since it doesn't have the bumps, hope the problem resolved.
Note: The gasket never leak at the same position everytime.

1fstevo

It's 7.5 ft/pound in the book and I still think that's too much torque.

Arturbo

Hmm, thats funny I could have sworn my Helms said 8.7ft.lbs or something like that, or closer to 9ft.lbs.

1fstevo

8.7 does sound familiar but doesn't matter, I torque it less since three gaskets ago. You should see the gasket squeeze as I torque it away. ( inch pound torque ranch of coarse.)

boostinb18

yah ive also gone threw 3 gaskets!!! still leak!! i hate these things!
i want to know how to fix this also.
TTT FOR YOU!

Arturbo

Very ture...good point..LOL

Lenthrax

iTrader: (1)

yup..the factory tourque specs is weird cause in some spots the gasket get squeezed too much and pops out..dam oil pans suck

SiR Kid

Here's what I did, and I've had no oil pan leaks at all.

I got under the car with a flashlight and my trusty 1/4" deep well rachet.

I tighted all the NUTS on the pan until it felt snug, not tightening, just there. Then I went in a star pattern on the nuts, rear right, front left, front right, rear left, and tightened them until i could JUST see the gasket starting to bulge from the pan squeexing it. I mean just BARELY. once all the nuts were done in that star order, I moved on to the bolts, and tightened them in the same fashion. Snug first, then tighten them down in order til the gasket just barely starts bulging.

Worked like a champ for me. No liquid gasket required, no leaking after 1 month so far.

Farnsrocket

My Acura Service Manual says 10lbf-ft for the bolts.
It has weird directions for tightening them.
It labels #1 bolt in the middle of the longer section of pan right by the drain plug, and then #2 is on the opposite side directly across from it, #3 is down from #1 at the corner, #4 is on the other corner across from #3. #5 is down on the other corner from #1 and #6 is on the other corner across from #5. I'll try to make a diagram.

5 1 3
plug

6 2 4


So it says tighten these 6 bolts and nuts finger tight, then, in 3 steps, tighten all the bolts and nuts starting with #1 going clockwise.
I noticed a couple spots where it started to bulge, but I think it is OK...we'll see when I fire the car up.


[Modified by Farnsrocket, 8:07 AM 10/20/2002]

VaporTrail

I always did 10ft/lbs, with permatex ultra grey (hondabond) around the entire gasket area. Installed and then allowed the hondabond to dry for a few hours. I think that's the key, and making sure your mating surfaces are clean.

ion_four

I had the same goddamned problem a while back. I called the honda service dept. at the local dealership.
They NEVER use a torque wrench.
He told me to use gask-a-cinch to attach the gasket to the pan, then put a thin layer of hondabond or rtv on it and let it dry for 5-10 minutes.
Then I put the nuts on by hand, then went around in a CIRCLE tightening them by 1/4 turns, making about 8 laps.
(I realize this sounds dumb, but it isn't goddamned leaking anymore!)

Also, use a new gasket with each attempt, if you haven't


[Modified by ion_four, 9:50 PM 10/20/2002]

Lenthrax

iTrader: (1)

yeah..i've used new gaskets all 3 times..good thing for employee discounts

1fstevo

I tried honda bond on one side of the gasket, then both side of the gasket, then waited more than 24 hours to dry and still wack out. I tried clockwise, counter clock wise, star pattern none did fix the problem. I probably did fix the problem already but install the oem pan way too many times that the lip and surface is now uneven. This has platgued me all season so I didn't even run once this year. Other times are just tuning the ems.

TurboedGSR

why are you so sure that its the oil pan leaking? i have the same problem, spent $100 on 3 new gaskets, and i have traced it down to the rear main seal. which i'll be getting fixed soon when i install a new clutch

1fstevo

that is true!! Mine is obvious since the gasket breaks visually.

Lenthrax

iTrader: (1)

my car has 20,000 miles. i doubt it would be the rear main seals. when i take off the pan, i could feel where the oil was seeping thru.


[Modified by skunk2allmotorSi, 6:40 AM 10/22/2002]

johnzm

same here. u guys i hope ur smart enough to flip that pan over on a flat surface to make sure its flat all around. thta will probaly help a great deal in fixing any leaks down there. i reused this gasket 3 times while trying to stop the *phanton* leak, and its not leaking now. just dont overtorque it, just so u start to see it buldge out a hair