how much power will my trans and axles hold before breaking
#1
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how much power will my trans and axles hold before breaking
i am going to rebuild my ys1 out of my 92 integra and replace the bearings and use carbon coated synchros also i plan to use an obx lsd what kind of power will it handle i plan on getting 400 whp ? if it wont hold what can i do to strengthen the gears and internals ?
#2
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also is obx lsd a good choice
i heard bad things about this 360 $ obx lsd i am planning on giving it a try should i try it or not i dont have money to waste on useless paperwieght
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#4
Don't waste your time and money with the obx, i have had bad luck with them, and everyone i know has also. They usually need to be opened up before use and have the correct size shims placed in them. Save your money and look into the MFactory helical type lsd, have one in my R trans, works great no problems yet, right around 680 shipped, cheapest of the cusco, quaife etc
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Don't waste your time and money with the obx, i have had bad luck with them, and everyone i know has also. They usually need to be opened up before use and have the correct size shims placed in them. Save your money and look into the MFactory helical type lsd, have one in my R trans, works great no problems yet, right around 680 shipped, cheapest of the cusco, quaife etc
Did u open up your obx lsd before you put it in the car and check it or did u just slap it in there? I've not heard any complaints about the obx unit after its been checked before being put in the tranny. Not saying there's not failures with them just asking
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get the obx lsd. the newer ones i think are better than the older ones as far as reliability. do that and recheck and retorque it before installation and you will be good to go.
my obx lsd and gsr tranny has been in 3 400+ hp cars, with one of them running 9's, the other running 10's and my slow *** only managed a 12.1 on radials. ive also got close to 20k miles on it myself. it rocks for the price
my obx lsd and gsr tranny has been in 3 400+ hp cars, with one of them running 9's, the other running 10's and my slow *** only managed a 12.1 on radials. ive also got close to 20k miles on it myself. it rocks for the price
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#9
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Yes. Your tranny and stock axles will hold the power. I'm shooting to make more than that and i'm running an OEM GSR tranny and AutoZone axles. I dont foresee any problems with it. The one thing to watch is launching at the track. If you dont know how to pre-load, learn.
#12
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Not to get to far off topic but did anyone noticed autozone doesn't remanufactor integra axles anymore? I swaped out the ones I broke at the IFO race and they told me they now use new axles and don't require a core. I'm not sure yet if that is a good thing or bad. You can definantly tell the difference in the shaft and exterior of the hubs.
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Yes. Your tranny and stock axles will hold the power. I'm shooting to make more than that and i'm running an OEM GSR tranny and AutoZone axles. I dont foresee any problems with it. The one thing to watch is launching at the track. If you dont know how to pre-load, learn.
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When you are on the line, yank up the e-brake and start to let the clutch out until you feel it pull slightly, then wait for the green and drop the e-brake and go, you are pre-loading the drivetrain to avoid shocking it by just dumping the clutch.
Last edited by boostedcivicsir; 12-13-2008 at 02:06 PM. Reason: deleting the quote.
#15
Here is a customers car that has 40+ hard 10.0~10.5 passes on the stock axles and gears:
http://www.evans-tuning.com/feature_..._july2008.html
Its all about preloading at launch and running slicks (not drag radials). I also have 4-5 other customers that run in the 9.9~11.0 range that are all on stock axles and transmissions. The autozone/advanced auto/etc rebuilds are usually weaker because they are remachined at the tripod/bearings and the metal is thinner as a result.
Stock gears will hold up usually pretty well till around gt35r/gt40r sized turbos. Again slicks play a huge factor, as well as clutch being used. The tilton flow valve makes a big difference from what i have found keeping the gears from breaking at higher power levels (t67/42r's/etc).
http://www.evans-tuning.com/feature_..._july2008.html
Its all about preloading at launch and running slicks (not drag radials). I also have 4-5 other customers that run in the 9.9~11.0 range that are all on stock axles and transmissions. The autozone/advanced auto/etc rebuilds are usually weaker because they are remachined at the tripod/bearings and the metal is thinner as a result.
Stock gears will hold up usually pretty well till around gt35r/gt40r sized turbos. Again slicks play a huge factor, as well as clutch being used. The tilton flow valve makes a big difference from what i have found keeping the gears from breaking at higher power levels (t67/42r's/etc).
Last edited by boosted hybrid; 12-11-2008 at 03:45 PM.
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laughing at the fact they are from autozone or that they claim lifetime warranty but have been quick to not honor the warranty lately??
good info as always boosted hybrid, and yeah it boils down to driver and preloading. ive never broken an axle at the track using autozones. gotta be 50 passes over the past 2 or so years, all over 350whp and 5k+ rpm launches
good info as always boosted hybrid, and yeah it boils down to driver and preloading. ive never broken an axle at the track using autozones. gotta be 50 passes over the past 2 or so years, all over 350whp and 5k+ rpm launches
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Do you guys think its better to launch at a higher rpm with the stock axles or a lower rpm with slicks? I always raced with DR's or street tires and I just leave like its a stop light normally. I got my 2 step at 7k now, I figured if I left really soft and didnt spin I would be more likely to break an axle that launching higher and just spinning off the line. I am going to the track tomorrow with some 24.5's and the high temp is only going to be in the mid 30's, so I shouldnt have too much issues dead hooking,....lol
I know my car is going to LOVE some sub 60deg IAT's haha
I know my car is going to LOVE some sub 60deg IAT's haha
#18
Try to launch with more rpm and less boost. The car will be more consistent on slicks. Preloading and leaving the clutch out easily will lessen the "hit" on the axles off the line.
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I dont even make 7psi off the step so I should be ok with that, I got my laptop so I will be playing with it im sure, I have some PWM tweaking to do. You tuned me using the fuel cut and I switched to the ignition cut once Neptune released it, those 2 methods are like night and day.
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Well my pep boys axles lasted me 2 runs, and they didnt break. First one was a botched pass, almost crossed the line twice, had too much air in the tires, launched at 7500rpm on the 2 step 1.84 60'
Second launch was also 7500rpm and with 8psi in them I did a 1.83
Tires were brand new MH 24.5x8.7x13 on Fly Stars, car weight is roughly 2650 with me in it.
I am pretty sure I was pre-loaded, I have hardly any clutch travel left in my poor clutch, I thought both times I redlighted so I guess I had a good load on them.
They survived......haha
Second launch was also 7500rpm and with 8psi in them I did a 1.83
Tires were brand new MH 24.5x8.7x13 on Fly Stars, car weight is roughly 2650 with me in it.
I am pretty sure I was pre-loaded, I have hardly any clutch travel left in my poor clutch, I thought both times I redlighted so I guess I had a good load on them.
They survived......haha
#22
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if your interested in strengthing your stock internals, do a search for steves gears, hes VERY affordable, and as soon as rip my itr trans out of the car this winter, Im sending my stuff to him...ps Ive heard nothing but good things about his treatment process
#23
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stock trans and axles should hold up fine if you are carefull and preload. ductape on the ebrake works good for the track. my buddy bub has a 754whp hatch with stock trans and oem axles and has only broke an axle once, and that night the track was sticking good, he pulled like a 1.50 60'
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