slowteg550

I know, aftermarket bolts are cheap insurance but I just wanted to know if they are really needed? I mean has anyone actually saw a stock main bolt fail? I am running a b18c1 head, b18a block darton sleeved @ 85mm, with a z10 3 post girdle. As of now for mockup purposes, # 5 and 1 mains have stock LS bolts, and #2,3,4 have GSR's since they are long enough for the girdle. I am looking for around 550 whp and about 9200 rpms.

DRIVENRacing

run stocks with no problem... otherwise you will have to line hone your block with the arp or aebs mains... gl 550 whp is simple

Suprdave

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adSPEED &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">run stocks with no problem... otherwise you will have to line hone your block with the arp or aebs mains... gl 550 whp is simple</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not if you torque them to stock-specs.

DRIVENRacing

^^ True, but thats defeating the purpose of using them

Suprdave

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowteg550 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know, aftermarket bolts are cheap insurance but I just wanted to know if they are really needed? I mean has anyone actually saw a stock main bolt fail? I am running a b18c1 head, b18a block darton sleeved @ 85mm, with a z10 3 post girdle. As of now for mockup purposes, # 5 and 1 mains have stock LS bolts, and #2,3,4 have GSR's since they are long enough for the girdle. I am looking for around 550 whp and about 9200 rpms. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Get Rid of the girdle, It moves around and beats up the middle 3 main bearings.

fknfast

several of my boys run stock ones with well into the 500-600 range no prob i have a dart block muahahaaaa..

earl

no problems seen with oem main bolts yet

slowteg550

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suprdave &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Get Rid of the girdle, It moves around and beats up the middle 3 main bearings.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So the girdle doesnt help? I wondered about that, it seems the only way it would help is if you dowel pinned it, to keep it from moving. How high can you rev the ls bottom end w/out a girdle tho?

earl

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowteg550 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So the girdle doesnt help? I wondered about that, it seems the only way it would help is if you dowel pinned it, to keep it from moving. How high can you rev the ls bottom end w/out a girdle tho?</TD></TR></TABLE>over 10K is easy

JDogg

depending on the condition and fit of the mains, i have seen engines that had obvious marring where the main meets the block from the cap moving around. arp studs tq'd to arp specs with an align hone generally stop that from happeneing.... is it a problem... i dunno, but moving mains cant be good.

DRIVENRacing

ditto

Boostfed

I had always ran stock main bolts on my B16A. On my GSR block I did go with AEBS main studs no line hone and worked fine. We got some changes that RLZ is making on my motor so it may get a line hone if needed now

D@nnY

i put a set of arp main studs on my gsr and it completely fubared the clearences and the crank didnt want ot spin....

went with stock bolts.....everythings sweet

if you use studs i would get it align bored ....the arp rec torque is 80ft lbs

slowteg550

I'm gonna use stock bolts, but still gotta get it align bored, i'm using the gsr girdle and center 3 caps. I don't have the original caps, so any way I go I gotta get it aligned...

D@nnY

yea man stock bolts are fine ...I would reccomend possibly getting a new set...they are about 3.50 each from the dealer

turbotypeR@SPEC

i use stock main bolts as well

JDogg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D@nnY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i put a set of arp main studs on my gsr and it completely fubared the clearences and the crank didnt want ot spin....

went with stock bolts.....everythings sweet

if you use studs i would get it align bored ....the arp rec torque is 80ft lbs </TD></TR></TABLE>

if you read the arp instructions, it says to get an align hone

The sweed

Have the arp main studs the same threads on the nuts as the stock mainbolts? if not the pressure on the mains can be different regardles if the same turque is used on the arp´s and stock ones..

D@nnY

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

if you read the arp instructions, it says to get an align hone </TD></TR></TABLE>

yes it does..it says to align bore it with the mains torqued down to 80 ft lbs

D@nnY

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The sweed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have the arp main studs the same threads on the nuts as the stock mainbolts? if not the pressure on the mains can be different regardles if the same turque is used on the arp´s and stock ones..</TD></TR></TABLE>

the stock main bolts dont use nuts...they are just bolts

RMS

arp studs are a bit scarey: after the line hone loosen the nuts, then retorque them and dial bore the main saddles again. hmmmm, different size. do it again. same thing. several blocks with the same issue. the only way we could fix it was to lower the torque to near stock. anyone else measured the saddles and seen this?

JDogg

i have seen several blocks that do this with stock bolts as well.. most of the time when i see that the dowels that locate the caps in the block are slightly loose.