ludelvr

I have heard numerous different things about this. Some people say that you can feel the kick immidiately on the first pound and some people have said that you need at least a certain amount of boost (say 7 psi) until you are faster than stock. What are some of the other opinions out there on this topic? I ask this cuz in my city, there were a few guys that went turbo and for the most part, they didn't get the desired output that they had hoped for. pretty much, the same results as a stock car. Thanks guys

GSRwBOOST

If they are getting close to stock feeling/power.. then they are running too low of boost. 4psi is nothing.... now crank it up to 8.. then you got something... 10 even better and 14.. oh yea... it only gets better from there from what i hear...

I think 8-9 was where i felt the big difference.. somewhere around top of third gear when the tires start to bark a little, just before i shift to fourth..

X2BOARD

Well I am on my 700th mile on my break in and I am feeding her about 1-2 psi on occasion now(until 1000) and honestly... she doesn't feel like anything at all ! You would prolly feel something around 4 psi tho and I'm sure it also depends on the turbo sizing. Coppersol used to run a B16 on 6 psi a while back and his car was VERY fast.

Ri5e

Yeah, you will notice a big difference when jumping from...let say 6 psi to 10 psi.

But if your running like 4 PSI, you wont feel much faster. Itz like hittin' NaaaWwwZZ y0.

RGAZ

IMO you won't feel anything until 5psi. After 5 it is very obvious. My car at 7 can get scary, at 10 its down-right dangerous. Remember, i am driving a very light (1900lbs) CRX with 7 psi and a fast spool (T25). Every car will feel different, but for me 5 I felt, 7-8 I love, and 10 means dangerous loss of traction.

Randy

Speed PHreak

I agree. I'm running a similar setup, although my power plant(LS) and turbo(DRAG t3/t4) are a bit larger. Still in a 1900lbs car it felt fairly quick at 6 psi(on an ITR tranny). At 7~8 it's quicker with a good amount of the power being put to the ground...Though at 10 psi on an LS tranny with some other upgrades it just gets scary sometimes. 1st gear is a joke, anything but a roll on in 2nd is 0 traction, and a large loss going into third is normal. T3/T4's effiecency(sp) range starts to come in around 10 psi and I haven'd been brave enough to go any higher than that. It starts to be almost more power than is useful on the street in such a light car......Though with a few minor bottom-end upgrades, a new valvetrain and some turbo cams, i'm lokking to push my redline up a 1000 RPM.....Talk about about traction loss huh?

Doodoo

I'm with you all here my turbo crx bros. Before I blew my LS(RIP) I ran 13 max on the street. WOOOOO BOY, what a ride. I would always start at 7psi then kick it up to 13psi. It is especially scary when it was cold out. It just gets better as the boost climbs.

rtype11

with no load on the motor the rings wont seal run some boost, if you are also staying in too high of a gear is not good for break in either.

blackteg

I haven't had a chance to put my boost controller in yet and I am running the DRAG gen II kit on my car with a T4 instead of the T3/T4. The tial that I have came with the .45 bar spring. I can definetly feel a huge difference over stock power. Can't wait till I turn the boost up.

TheSwift1

so can u turboed guys gve us aspiring turbo guys some more good descriptions of what to expect in terms of power! i'm gonna be running about 12 psi daily on an LS/VTEC...

Speed PHreak

TheSwift1:

May I suggest using a GS-R or Z-10 girdle to you then?

shorty

im running 5psi, with the drag kit, and dynoed at 196whp....it feels a good amount faster than the 139 I dynoed at when I was stock.

EVOCELICA

has anyone ever heard of CFM, boost that your running doesn't mean a thing in comparrison with boost someone else is running. If I have a turbo that blows 300CFM and I'm boosting 5psi and you have a turbo that blows 300000CFM and you're boosting 5psi it will be a completely different feeling

GruvyTune

I like about 8-10psi to really feel like I'm moving. 6psi when i first got the turbo was orgasmic compared to stock but once you get to like 10psi, 6psi feels like "why bother".

i hit 15psi by accident last week because I forgot to hook a boost line to my wastegate and it was totally awesome! Except I tweaked for a minute or two wondering if I could have blown my engine up. Thank god no.

HXMan

That could have been very bad. Its kinda like life, alot of things that feel good, are in reality bad.


[Modified by HXMan, 3:42 PM 5/23/2002]

maxim

Last night I turned up the boost on my MBC from 7 to 10psi, granted I don't do this repeatedly, and it made a HUGE difference. It felt like 50 to 110 came in 2 seconds. I think I can really start to feel it around 5.5 to 6psi, but below that is really not anything special.

dbman96

Actually that's a little bit silly because at a given engine speed you can only consume a certain volume of air. A GSR at 8000 RPM consumes about 200 CFM. You can deliver that 200 CFM at atmospheric pressure or at 10 psi, but you can NOT put more than 200 CFM into the engine.

TheSwift1

would i really need that, since i'm putting new JE pistons, Eagle rods, bearings, etc...in the engine, with a blockguard (basically i'm rebuilding the engine, new everything, balanced and micropolished crank)? i mean i'm only gonna be redliing at about 8,000 RPM...the bottom end on these engines are already pretty stout...

JFK78

I have run a sohc vtec at like 3-4 psi, and it initially feels fast when it spools, but from there it don't feel like much.


5.5 psi in my sohc vtec coupe felt nice, it had big torque surge, kinda like a BMW. Top end power was OK, but not great. It ran mid 14's at that point.


At 8 psi it felt TWICE as fast, HUGE torque surge and strong top end pull, almost dangerous torque steer. It ran 13.9's on 8 psi.


My bro's hatch with a sohc vtec used to spike to 10 psi, and when it did it felt almost dangerous. It ran 13.5 with the boost spiking to 10 psi and falling to 6 psi.


Now, in my under 2000 lbs hatch, the sohc vtec at only 5 psi feels CRAZY, it is just totally explosive feeling, instant spooling, no traction 1st and 2nd gears on the street, and has a REALLY strong top end pull. It runs 13.3-13.5 on 5 psi. Everyone who has ridden in my car says it feels like/reminds them of a sportbike.
It actually feels and sounds faster than it really is.


One of my friends has a 2.0 sohc 2000 Neon R/T with a liquid intercooled Super 16G turbo on it at 7-10 psi. His car hardly has any traction problems, and doesn't feel explosive at all, but instead it feels like a jet taking off, it just sucks you into your seat and feels like it's never gonna stop pulling.


Another friend has a 2000 Toyota Tacoma with a dohc 2.4 with a T3 turbo at 7-10 psi with no intercooler, and it pulls hard and has tons of torque, but the low 5200 rpm redline really kills the fun way too soon. He also has lots of traction problems.

Sorry for the rambling!

Speed PHreak

You can never be to safe. If you're that far into it you might as well not scrimp at the very end. My GS-R gridle conversion cost me about $330, that's includeing the new parts from Acura and the light machine work that needs to be done.(nothing major, cost me $20). You say only 8000 RPM on an engine that was only ment to see 7K. Granted I love LS', you're right about them being strong blocks. But with moderate boost and a 1000 extra RPM to boot? You're going to be punishing the rods and bearings pretty bad. Aftermarket rods or not. Remember ~~ RPM = Ruins Peoples Motors!

The stock Honda rods are plenty strong to see 8K RPM, It's the rod bolts that are the weak link. The LS uses 8mm long rod bolts, just like the D blocks. The GS-R however uses a 9mm long bolt that is a good bit stronger. I've got ARP rod bolts in mine just to be safe. I highly recommend them if you don't already have them for your LS/VTEC.

With a Block girdle, some ARP rods bolts and a VTEC head you'll be on your way to having a block almost as reliable as the GS-R for revving. Only thing missing would be the oil squirters. Tho most believe that they are used more for cooling the piston rather than lubriaction. However due to the significantly better cooling properties of forged pistons over the factory cast pistons, it's doubtful that the oil squirters would be that cost effective/useful in your engine.

Cheers

~Steven

CRXRageD

Ok, one thing I will admit about the butt dyno, it can be horribly decieving. My car with its first set of tires and the turbo=spinning 1st-4th and chirping 5th, that was with 12lbs of boost. Now my car with considerably more stick at the same boost barely spins(occassionaly) depending on weather, 1st to 2nd and a little of 2nd gear. And third is just a gentle breeze. Or at least it seems that way. Maybe I need more boost. Still, with stickier tires, the car feels slower (but is faster in the 1/4), it might be perception or desensitization. Who knows?

X2BOARD

The only reason forged pistons are sooo trusted without oil squirters is that they have a higher number of oil passages, not to mention, the passages are larger than stock (considerably). Squirters on forged pistons are still a great option and squirters can be retro fit to an LS block. I don't even know why we are discussing LSVT's here as it is a complicated subject where opinion is not that important, fact it... and the fact is.. it's OT

I tested it this weekend. You feel a difference at 2 psi with the right tuning... I kept it under 3 psi this whole weekend and noitced the surge at 2. It wasn't a whole lot at all, but I noticed the diff....with a slight lag at 1psi (prolly due to ECU processing speed)

speedworks

15 used to feel pretty good,not any more. this weekend i'm turning up the wick to 20 psi. this thing should get hairy. i want to get into the 10 second club.