iBrandon

Motor is freshly built, i got everything hooked up, want to break it in with stock injectors and no boost...will running open external tial wastegate for like 100 miles or so have any negative effects?

I want to be dam sure the motor is up to par (no oil leaks, coolant leaks, mechanically sound) before i boost it. Planning on making 600...so i dont want to f-things up with boost if sumthing is wrong at the beg...

Thanks!

ProJectCvic

I see no problem with use taking out the firing ring and taking it easy on the throttle. I drove a car home 400 mile on stock fuel management..just took the firing ring out. As mentioned, just take it easy on the throttle b/c you will build alit boost.

iBrandon

So i dont need to remove the spring then? just the fire ring itself?

ProJectCvic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iBrandon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So i dont need to remove the spring then? just the fire ring itself?</TD></TR></TABLE>

By remove the spring, I was afraid I would ruin the diapharm since there is too much play. Just the fire ring is enough I think...at most you will build 3-4 lbs of boost.

CivicVX94

define "open external wastegate"
do you mean no dump tube or open dump tube as oppossed to closed loop one?

iBrandon

Opening meaning running no boost...spring is out! or sumthing similar to that effect.

I have a dumptube routed underneath the car....so dont have to worry about dirty carbon buildup in the engine bay..

BoostedEG6

just take the car to the dyno and tune it..... There is no need to "break" the motor in without boost..... just do the initial start up and check for leaks and everything... I don’t recommend a "break in period" because if it is done on the dyno in a controlled environment you can make sure nothing goes wrong

Every motor that we have built that has been 650+whp has been built, dropped in the car, started up with a wideband connected to make sure of afr’s and to make sure there are no leaks then they are put on the dyno and tuned. We have never had any problems by doing it that way.

Is your car going to be tuned for your “break in period” ?

ProJectCvic

I agree, most of the time...you drive it hard to break in the rings.

iBrandon

Well im going to be breaking it in hard. Im tuning the car myself on s300, street first for part throttle, then dyno for WOT and race fuel and timing adjustments.

But i have read that it is crititcal upon start up to seat the rings in within the first 10-20 miles or so hard...by running 1000cc injectors, you have to make a few richer runs to get a proper afr going, and i just dont want to wash the rings out before its seated is why im asking...with stock injectors, just throw em in and make minor adjustments while breaking it in hard..without worrying bout running to rich to wash the rings out...

but it seems like many of you guys are tuning off the back with rings seated and sealed properly...so ill considered that

Aerodynamik

Break it in running on base boost. IDK how much a honda normally runs for boost but running a small 4-5lb boost while breaking in a motor should be relatively harmless unless its a very high compression motor...

boosted k20

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostedEG6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just take the car to the dyno and tune it..... There is no need to "break" the motor in without boost..... just do the initial start up and check for leaks and everything... I don’t recommend a "break in period" because if it is done on the dyno in a controlled environment you can make sure nothing goes wrong

Every motor that we have built that has been 650+whp has been built, dropped in the car, started up with a wideband connected to make sure of afr’s and to make sure there are no leaks then they are put on the dyno and tuned. We have never had any problems by doing it that way.

Is your car going to be tuned for your “break in period” ?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

best way to do it


also if u remove the fire ring, the car will still see boost but it will boost slowly. just keep the spring in the gate and dont floor the throttle if ur worried about boosting

iBrandon

defeats the purpose of a hard break in doesnt it?

Any hoo, ill probably break in hard with stock injectors, open gated to seat the rings, then check for leaks and what not, change oil and filter and throw the 1000cc on and go from there....

Any other suggestions would be helpfu!

vaporboy12

expletive it get start it up check for leaks and strap its down... if its going to break its going to break not a damn thing you can do about it....

iBrandon

True...but the breakage can be minimized so it doesnt break other things as well, depending on what broke...

Schister66

its going to be beaten its whole life, you might as well start now.....just put it together in the way it is going to stay and drive it like its stolen, but tune it first....

quicksilver1689

the break in period is mainly just to get the optimal piston ring seal. The rings seat within the first 20 miles. theres a good artical floating around on ht somewhere about proper engine break it.

tegasaurus

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quicksilver1689 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the break in period is mainly just to get the optimal piston ring seal. The rings seat within the first 20 miles. theres a good artical floating around on ht somewhere about proper engine break it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

a good one?! find the link for me plz