How to get an AEM boost solenoid for $30 bucks.
10-16-2007, 09:46 AM
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How to get an AEM boost solenoid for $30 bucks.
HEy for all those people in need of a GOOD/RELIABLE boost solenoid go to:
http://www.macvalves.com (they make the haltech and AEM rebadged solenoids)
lookup the distributor that handles your geographic location and order this part number:
35A-AAA-DDBA-4BA
cost for me was $28 but this should vary with shipping I guess.
Laters!
http://www.macvalves.com (they make the haltech and AEM rebadged solenoids)
lookup the distributor that handles your geographic location and order this part number:
35A-AAA-DDBA-4BA
cost for me was $28 but this should vary with shipping I guess.
Laters!
10-16-2007, 12:22 PM
#3
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Re: How to get an AEM boost solenoid for $30 bucks. (LSTEG96)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSTEG96 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">? is this big news or something? i got mine for 25 shipped.... didnt seem like it was anything special</TD></TR></TABLE>
For some people that did not know about this it is. Do you have pictures of your valve?
For some people that did not know about this it is. Do you have pictures of your valve?
10-16-2007, 01:12 PM
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Re: How to get an AEM boost solenoid for $30 bucks. (N20civicB18)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSTEG96 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
? is this big news or something? i got mine for 25 shipped.... didnt seem like it was anything special
</TD></TR></TABLE>
THanks for sharing when you did get yours. I mean god forbid this forum turns into a place where people help each other out.
Plus there are others here selling the same valve for $85 in the classifieds section.
Heck...I almost bought one.
The part number in the pic is misleading. THe Blue anodized metal body is designated by the three characters following the first dash. In the pic its B00 but after first ordering this and realizing its the incorrect body...MAC valves helped me by looking at the pic and sending me the correct 3 port body designated by AAA in the part number.
Modified by BoOsTeD_eK at 6:57 PM 10/16/2007
? is this big news or something? i got mine for 25 shipped.... didnt seem like it was anything special
</TD></TR></TABLE>
THanks for sharing when you did get yours. I mean god forbid this forum turns into a place where people help each other out.
Plus there are others here selling the same valve for $85 in the classifieds section.
Heck...I almost bought one.
The part number in the pic is misleading. THe Blue anodized metal body is designated by the three characters following the first dash. In the pic its B00 but after first ordering this and realizing its the incorrect body...MAC valves helped me by looking at the pic and sending me the correct 3 port body designated by AAA in the part number.
Modified by BoOsTeD_eK at 6:57 PM 10/16/2007
01-18-2008, 06:42 AM
#7
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Re: (.adam.)
What does the **** on the top of the MAC valve for? Just curious as my GM solenoid doesn't have this. Possibly a bypass in case you don't want it to fail open like the GM's do?
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01-18-2008, 07:59 AM
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Re: How to get an AEM boost solenoid for $30 bucks. (BoOsTeD_eK)
That's not the one AEM uses, sorry.
Yours is cheaper because it's coil is lower current, it's coil is rated for 50 degrees C less peak operating temp (yours will be fine if it's in a well ventilated area BUT it will have a shorter lifespan because of this), you have a grommet instead of plug connection, and it has the obvious manual override **** sticking out of the top.
All the MAC 35A-series features are not listed on their site, for example NEMA Classes, but this is 85% of them: http://www.macvalves.com/produ...5.pdf
There are several manufacturers on the market with affordable 3-way solenoid valves comparable to the one you have, but there is only one competitor that has a higher amperage F coil option affordably priced compared to the MAC and it's a higher quality Chinese piece.
BTW, have you tried to operate yours past 90% duty? You get the wrong combo of coil and control circuitry and the coil won't want to shut off.
Yours is cheaper because it's coil is lower current, it's coil is rated for 50 degrees C less peak operating temp (yours will be fine if it's in a well ventilated area BUT it will have a shorter lifespan because of this), you have a grommet instead of plug connection, and it has the obvious manual override **** sticking out of the top.
All the MAC 35A-series features are not listed on their site, for example NEMA Classes, but this is 85% of them: http://www.macvalves.com/produ...5.pdf
There are several manufacturers on the market with affordable 3-way solenoid valves comparable to the one you have, but there is only one competitor that has a higher amperage F coil option affordably priced compared to the MAC and it's a higher quality Chinese piece.
BTW, have you tried to operate yours past 90% duty? You get the wrong combo of coil and control circuitry and the coil won't want to shut off.
01-18-2008, 08:32 AM
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Re: (.adam.)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .adam. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so does this mean i need to get the aem one, or what about the chinese one? or is that top secret info </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll share part info when I know more, and full disclosure will be after a year or two of the cheap ones in the field. Nothing sucks more than somebody running with a part number that looks good only to have it turn out to be a failure piece. I know a crazy french canadian who's been running Class A coil solenoids for a couple years now with no complaints, but I like seeing things for myself.
No lie, I'm sitting at school soldering EGR control circuitry into my beater's ECU so I can bench test a handful of solenoids I have in my bag, one of them being an actual AEM solenoid. I don't have the chinese unit in hand yet, frankly I'm still broke from xmas and it won't be until next week. I plan on comparing waveforms to make sure flyback isn't out of spec for the snubber diode in the ECU (although all of the DC solenoids already come equipped with their own spike protection circuitry), opening times (KS records the solenoid "click" vs the PW from the ECU), current draw vs TIP122/SK5151 rating, and a couple other aspects.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I'll share part info when I know more, and full disclosure will be after a year or two of the cheap ones in the field. Nothing sucks more than somebody running with a part number that looks good only to have it turn out to be a failure piece. I know a crazy french canadian who's been running Class A coil solenoids for a couple years now with no complaints, but I like seeing things for myself.
No lie, I'm sitting at school soldering EGR control circuitry into my beater's ECU so I can bench test a handful of solenoids I have in my bag, one of them being an actual AEM solenoid. I don't have the chinese unit in hand yet, frankly I'm still broke from xmas and it won't be until next week. I plan on comparing waveforms to make sure flyback isn't out of spec for the snubber diode in the ECU (although all of the DC solenoids already come equipped with their own spike protection circuitry), opening times (KS records the solenoid "click" vs the PW from the ECU), current draw vs TIP122/SK5151 rating, and a couple other aspects.
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