Toda Party

iTrader: (2)

ok so my friend has a turbo LS with a quaife..

he isntalled the quaife in march with NEW differential bearings from honda, i forget if they are the roller taper or the other,but it was the kind that do NOT require measuring preload before installation

so maybe 2 months ago, he had the tranny case apart to fix something else and he noticed the bearing was shot already, so he replaced it, only one side however, and put the case back together

fast foward to today, he notices a horrible rattling/crackling sound coming from the car, narrows it down to the transmission, drains the fluid and it comes out GRAY...not metal chunky, but definitely some shavings in there

now my quesiton is, what could this be attributed to? if the bearing goes bad, would it produce enough shavings to get the fluid all gray like that?

5thgencivic

The bearing could have failed. Did he shim the diff properly?
The only way to really find out what it is would be to drop the trans and check it out.

Toda Party

iTrader: (2)

im pretty sure we shimmed the diff properly...because when we installed the diff, we didn't have a helm's, and the shim that was in there prevented us from letting us close the case properly, after we removed it, it closed up perfectly...

i guess i'm just wondering if this is a common problem with people with quaifes, or even people making decent power, if the diff bearings tend to fail

Mista Bone

you didn't shim the diff, you ruin one bearing before, now have ruined another.

AND with all that trash floating in the oil, have ruined the Quaife as well.



If you don't have a proper manual, stop what you are going a GET ONE!

MotorMatrix.com

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mista Bone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you didn't shim the diff, you ruin one bearing before, now have ruined another.

AND with all that trash floating in the oil, have ruined the Quaife as well.



If you don't have a proper manual, stop what you are going a GET ONE!</TD></TR></TABLE>

according to quaife there is no shimming required. i asked that question on here more than once. tony1 says no shimming required.

Mista Bone

is this the same quafie that sez 90-91 Civic/CRX diffs are 35 mm?

How many people got screwed on that???????

Toda Party

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mista Bone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you didn't shim the diff, you ruin one bearing before, now have ruined another.

AND with all that trash floating in the oil, have ruined the Quaife as well.



If you don't have a proper manual, stop what you are going a GET ONE!</TD></TR></TABLE>



1) i bought the quaife from earl. when i got it, there was just 1 piece of paper with it, and it was the warranty card. If shimming is THAT important, quaite, or earl, would've said something, no?

2) There are two types of diff bearings available from honda for the ITR diff, which u are supposed to use with the quaife...one is the roller-taper style, the other, i forget... one of them requires measuring pre-load before isntallation, the other u can throw on w/o worries

Now, since quaife didnt include any directions, and my friend borrowed my manual, granted, it was a bad idea to do the install w/o it, but here's my findings from it...

with the bearings i got, the ones that u dont have to measure preload with, you have to remove the shim that's in the diff case.

BUT, if you use the stock bearings that come with the diff in the LS tranny (can't speak for any other tranny) you NEED the shim...

I know this because when we first intsalled the quaife, we broke the case because we forgot to remove the shim...lesson learned.

then, we welded the case backtogether, but started leaking like 2 months ago, so i bought a new half case, and when i was installing the new case, i saw that the bearing on the top of the diff was starting to go, so i replaced it with the stock bearing from my old diff, and put the shim BACK in.

so technically, i didn't really **** up anywhere down the line, other than us breaking the case...


what trash might you be talking about? i said that the fluid came out grayish, but it wasnt chunky like huge pieces of metal...besides, isnt the quiafe lifetime warrantied? **** them if they say i installed it improperly, cuz they're the retards who didnt include directions

Toda Party

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mista Bone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is this the same quafie that sez 90-91 Civic/CRX diffs are 35 mm?

How many people got screwed on that???????</TD></TR></TABLE>

uhh i dunno, i told earl, 1 quaife for b18b thanks, and i trusted him to be competent enough to give me the right one

Mista Bone

ANYTIME you change the diff or one of the diff bearings, shim clearance MUST be checked. Failure to do so will......well you've already seen what will happen.

You've already installed it wrong twice, wanna try to get it right this time?????
Buy a HELMS!!!!!!!.

Mista Bone

Lucky I had the .pdf file for 94 Teg handy...........

EH2LS

thanks for the scans

so i follow the shim clearances for b18b, even thought I am using ITR diff bearings with a quaife?

Mista Bone

ITR is a whole different setup I believe.

*Boostwerks*

Even though the machine tolerances on the quaife are incredibly close (if not exact) to that of a stock diff, I would reccomend to anyone that they check the bearing play after assembily.

I checked my end play after my assembily just a couple of day's ago, and it was just at the edge of needing a thicker shim (.006" I beleive).

In most cases, shiming won't be required, but I would strongly reccomend checking anyways!

Mista Bone

another suggestion, using a caliper (measuring tool) measure to OAL between the outer edge of the bearings. Then you can gauge this against your new diff/bearings.

This has to be done with the ring gear removed, the photo will give you a idea what I'm talking about.......



When I installed my Kaaz, I reused some 90-91 CRX Si bearings (I was BROKE!) and pressed them onto the Kaaz. By comparing the stock diff w/bearings to the Kazz w/bearings, there was about .001 difference. I didn't have to reshim, THAT time!

Ain't it SEXY?





Modified by Mista Bone at 4:06 AM 9/17/2003

Pengo

damn i wish i had a digital vernier caliper. these regular ones hurt my bad eyes with all their little lines.

Toda Party

iTrader: (2)

do you guys remember which bearings DONT require measurement of preload?

was it the roller taper bearings? anyone have part numbers? me love you long time if u do

Mista Bone

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pengo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn i wish i had a digital vernier caliper. these regular ones hurt my bad eyes with all their little lines. </TD></TR></TABLE>

$19.99 at Harbor Freight

Honda Hick

Maybe I'm missing something, but why don't you just CALL QUAIFE? I'm sure if you talk to a competent person they are gonna be able to help you, they made the damn thing. Don't be afraid to call the manufacturer, I call them all the time when their directions suck or make no sense.