Horrible hesitation when warm.
 

I just put a new D16Z6 into my 95 coupe.

It's pretty much brand new. Block w/ new water/oil pumps, bearings, rods, ect. Head has brand new valves/springs/ect.

Once the car gets warm is studders & hesitates horribly. When it starts to get warm it'll have a problem around 0-2lbs, but once the car is fully warmed it will hesitate throughout.

I figured it is either an ignition or fuel problem. The distributor is only 4 months old (dist king), brand new OEM wires, and I'm running NAPA Autolite Copper plugs.

The old motor was doing this before, so I know it's not the motor itself.

The old motor did overheat due to a leaky radiator. Is there a possibility that one of the sensors got too hot?

Thanks for any input.

Re: Horrible hesitation when warm. (Everyones Hero)
 

Notes to self:

-Get hotter plugs (1 step colder than stock), gap to .028"
-Check PCV valve
-Borrow dist from Josh
-New fuel filters
-Kick guy at honda in the nuts for not having any needed parts
-Pat guy at NAPA on the back for having necessary gaskets
---
-450cc injectors for 350whp?

arent dsm 450s only good to 300whp?

any cels? what map? how much boost? it runs fine cold? any leaks [oil/coolant]?

Re: (turbotime)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbotime &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">arent dsm 450s only good to 300whp?

any cels? what map? how much boost? it runs fine cold? any leaks [oil/coolant]?</TD></TR></TABLE>

-I'm running DSM 310ccs right now. Going to be getting some RCs soon enough.

-There was a CEL when I was running Uber (which I thought was the problem). When I switched to a Crome map the CEL went away.

-Stock map. I was boosting 15lbs on it. Is there a possibility that the diaphram is screwed up because of the 15lbs or because it got really, really hot? I do have a GM 3bar, but I haven't put it on yet.

-Right now it's set to 7psi, but I haven't hit full boost yet.

-It was running fine cold, but now it hesitates anytime I'm on the gas.

-Had a water leak coming from that black metal tube that the thermo is attached to. Put some gasket maker on it and that fixed that.

I'm starting to lean towards spark plugs. I think mine were gapped around .030-.032", and they're the copper autolites from NAPA. I'm going to go with the stock ones and gap them to .028" to see if that fixes the problem.

I just don't want to go through my entire fuel & ignition systems trying to fix this stupid thing. I want to have my car back. https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emsad.gif https://honda-tech.com/forums/images...s/emsmilep.gif

i think stock map is only good to ~11psi you may have wrecked it runnin 15....

also get some bkr7e plugs when you get new plugs. If you throw on the 3bar make sure you adjust the map accordingly....

Re: (turbotime)
 

I'm still working on getting a good basemap for a P28.

All the plug-ins for datalogging and shit is such a pain in the ass. Not to mention I tried to get the AFRs between 13-14.5, but I'll pull 30% fuel and it'll drop to 11 AFR. Add 10% and it goes back to 18. WTF!

I'm going to switch to the 3bar and get new plugs.

Where can I get bkr7e's?

Thanks for your help so far.

Re: (Everyones Hero)
 

what wideband are u using

Re: (NAPIER)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NAPIER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what wideband are u using</TD></TR></TABLE>

PLX M-300.