Hondata and PLX wiring questions for experienced honda tuners
12-31-2007, 04:18 PM
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Hondata and PLX wiring questions for experienced honda tuners
Ok I have a couple of questions for you guys;
Ive modified my OBD2a->OBD1 adaptor harness with bullet-connectors for inputs/outputs on the ECU side.
Im going to be using the PLX's white wide-band signal wire to the ECU D10-ELD.
1
There is a note in the help file saying that somtimes certain ELD resisters must be removed before this pinout can be used. I bought my P28 ecu directly through hondata and it was prepared for boost control by hondata.
....WILL I NEED TO REMOVE ANY RESISTORS??
2
Also I want to use B5-ACS switch input to switch between high and low boost... Do I need to manually rewire the switch by removing all the heater controls and opening it up OR CAN I... use the 'INVERT-INPUT' option to make the factory wiring function without modification to the switch's wiring?
3
I extended both the grey narrowband signal wire to the engine harness clips white O2 signal wire whilst also making an adapter with a 1watt 1k resister between the two black O2 heater wires. I also extended the white wideband wignal to D10-ELD. I perfectly soldered and heatshrunk the joints but would like to know... will this affect accuracy after voltage correction in hondata
4
PLX Devices reccomends connecting the M300 to the ECUs power and ground whilst also using two noise filtering capaciters.
I intend to used switched +12v from the under dash ingnition feed with a local ground. a). Do I need to use power at or near the ecu or can Hondatas vltage correction chart be used to correct any innacuracy? b). Does hondata advise the fitting of these capacitors??
Cheers
Ive modified my OBD2a->OBD1 adaptor harness with bullet-connectors for inputs/outputs on the ECU side.
Im going to be using the PLX's white wide-band signal wire to the ECU D10-ELD.
1
There is a note in the help file saying that somtimes certain ELD resisters must be removed before this pinout can be used. I bought my P28 ecu directly through hondata and it was prepared for boost control by hondata.
....WILL I NEED TO REMOVE ANY RESISTORS??
2
Also I want to use B5-ACS switch input to switch between high and low boost... Do I need to manually rewire the switch by removing all the heater controls and opening it up OR CAN I... use the 'INVERT-INPUT' option to make the factory wiring function without modification to the switch's wiring?
3
I extended both the grey narrowband signal wire to the engine harness clips white O2 signal wire whilst also making an adapter with a 1watt 1k resister between the two black O2 heater wires. I also extended the white wideband wignal to D10-ELD. I perfectly soldered and heatshrunk the joints but would like to know... will this affect accuracy after voltage correction in hondata
4
PLX Devices reccomends connecting the M300 to the ECUs power and ground whilst also using two noise filtering capaciters.
I intend to used switched +12v from the under dash ingnition feed with a local ground. a). Do I need to use power at or near the ecu or can Hondatas vltage correction chart be used to correct any innacuracy? b). Does hondata advise the fitting of these capacitors??
Cheers
12-31-2007, 11:44 PM
#2
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Re: Hondata and PLX wiring questions for experienced honda tuners (0TT)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 0TT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok I have a couple of questions for you guys;
Ive modified my OBD2a->OBD1 adaptor harness with bullet-connectors for inputs/outputs on the ECU side.
Im going to be using the PLX's white wide-band signal wire to the ECU D10-ELD.
1
There is a note in the help file saying that somtimes certain ELD resisters must be removed before this pinout can be used. I bought my P28 ecu directly through hondata and it was prepared for boost control by hondata.
....WILL I NEED TO REMOVE ANY RESISTORS??
2
Also I want to use B5-ACS switch input to switch between high and low boost... Do I need to manually rewire the switch by removing all the heater controls and opening it up OR CAN I... use the 'INVERT-INPUT' option to make the factory wiring function without modification to the switch's wiring?
3
I extended both the grey narrowband signal wire to the engine harness clips white O2 signal wire whilst also making an adapter with a 1watt 1k resister between the two black O2 heater wires. I also extended the white wideband wignal to D10-ELD. I perfectly soldered and heatshrunk the joints but would like to know... will this affect accuracy after voltage correction in hondata
4
PLX Devices reccomends connecting the M300 to the ECUs power and ground whilst also using two noise filtering capaciters.
I intend to used switched +12v from the under dash ingnition feed with a local ground. a). Do I need to use power at or near the ecu or can Hondatas vltage correction chart be used to correct any innacuracy? b). Does hondata advise the fitting of these capacitors??
Cheers</TD></TR></TABLE>
1. Open the ecu and look.
2. Test the switch using a dual mapping function to see if you need to invert it etc.. (Make one map run 0 deg of base timing) to see if it is switching as it should etc.
You can then use those findings to setup the variables for your low/high boost switch.
3. Possibly, you would have to do some testing with a meter.
4. I would ground at the battery & power from a relayed 12v source from the battery. You will be able to use a voltage offset to get everything synced.
Ive modified my OBD2a->OBD1 adaptor harness with bullet-connectors for inputs/outputs on the ECU side.
Im going to be using the PLX's white wide-band signal wire to the ECU D10-ELD.
1
There is a note in the help file saying that somtimes certain ELD resisters must be removed before this pinout can be used. I bought my P28 ecu directly through hondata and it was prepared for boost control by hondata.
....WILL I NEED TO REMOVE ANY RESISTORS??
2
Also I want to use B5-ACS switch input to switch between high and low boost... Do I need to manually rewire the switch by removing all the heater controls and opening it up OR CAN I... use the 'INVERT-INPUT' option to make the factory wiring function without modification to the switch's wiring?
3
I extended both the grey narrowband signal wire to the engine harness clips white O2 signal wire whilst also making an adapter with a 1watt 1k resister between the two black O2 heater wires. I also extended the white wideband wignal to D10-ELD. I perfectly soldered and heatshrunk the joints but would like to know... will this affect accuracy after voltage correction in hondata
4
PLX Devices reccomends connecting the M300 to the ECUs power and ground whilst also using two noise filtering capaciters.
I intend to used switched +12v from the under dash ingnition feed with a local ground. a). Do I need to use power at or near the ecu or can Hondatas vltage correction chart be used to correct any innacuracy? b). Does hondata advise the fitting of these capacitors??
Cheers</TD></TR></TABLE>
1. Open the ecu and look.
2. Test the switch using a dual mapping function to see if you need to invert it etc.. (Make one map run 0 deg of base timing) to see if it is switching as it should etc.
You can then use those findings to setup the variables for your low/high boost switch.
3. Possibly, you would have to do some testing with a meter.
4. I would ground at the battery & power from a relayed 12v source from the battery. You will be able to use a voltage offset to get everything synced.
01-01-2008, 10:01 AM
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Re: Hondata and PLX wiring questions for experienced honda tuners (mtber)
3: I'd have spliced the narrowband output into the stock input at the ECU. I'm running Crome, so all I do is disable closed loop, flip a switch, and it goes from reading narrowband output to wideband output.
4: When I had my PLX, I ran speaker wire from the battery to the unit for ground, and used +12v switched for the other side. They actually recommend doing this. If its left on (o2 heater stays on) when the motor is turned off, the moisture from startup cooling it drasticly could crack the element.
Just put the caps between the wires right behind the PLX box. They recommend connecting the ends of the wires with the caps, but thats virtually impossible. Its going to be off a few tenths anyways, so no need to make it absolutely perfect.
4: When I had my PLX, I ran speaker wire from the battery to the unit for ground, and used +12v switched for the other side. They actually recommend doing this. If its left on (o2 heater stays on) when the motor is turned off, the moisture from startup cooling it drasticly could crack the element.
Just put the caps between the wires right behind the PLX box. They recommend connecting the ends of the wires with the caps, but thats virtually impossible. Its going to be off a few tenths anyways, so no need to make it absolutely perfect.
01-01-2008, 02:21 PM
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Re: Hondata and PLX wiring questions for experienced honda tuners (HiProfile)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Just put the caps between the wires right behind the PLX box. They recommend connecting the ends of the wires with the caps, but thats virtually impossible. Its going to be off a few tenths anyways, so no need to make it absolutely perfect.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Both caps in parralell?
Just put the caps between the wires right behind the PLX box. They recommend connecting the ends of the wires with the caps, but thats virtually impossible. Its going to be off a few tenths anyways, so no need to make it absolutely perfect.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Both caps in parralell?
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