siis2fast

i have heard of hondata always having a problem with cold starts, and running super rich. i experanced it on my GSR last year with the supercharger. but it would at least stay running.

now, its only idleing for like 5 min and then stalling. then its so rich that its totally flooded out. i pulled my plugs and there all wet.

any suggestions>?

MachAF

Sounds like a tuning issue or an injector is stuck open.

Probably a tunning issue.

With a injector stuck open the car won't idle from the get go.

tthame1

If the car is obd-II, you need to unplug the purge valve and that should fix it.

siis2fast

its a 98 GSR, but i switched to OBD-1 ecu......

i just the car BACK from the tuner last night. he said the hondata map looks fine and if no CEL or the hondata light isnt flashing that its not that.

tthame1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by siis2fast &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its a 98 GSR, but i switched to OBD-1 ecu......

i just the car BACK from the tuner last night. he said the hondata map looks fine and if no CEL or the hondata light isnt flashing that its not that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Unplug the purge valve......My 00 Si was doing the same thing when I switched to Hondata and that fixed it.

siis2fast

where is the purge valve?


i just got off the phone with the tuner, he said it could be like a bad coolant temp sensor....but wouldnt really know unless he could plug it into the dataloger and look at everything

ladysman

Turn down the ECT adjustment in the software.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by siis2fast &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where is the purge valve?


i just got off the phone with the tuner, he said it could be like a bad coolant temp sensor....but wouldnt really know unless he could plug it into the dataloger and look at everything</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's the little sensor on the back of the IM with a "hat." It has one two wire electrical connection and a vacuum line going into the bottom from the IM, and a vacuum line going to the charcoal canister from the side. Unplug the electrical connection and it should fix the problem.

turboteg96

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tthame1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Unplug the purge valve......My 00 Si was doing the same thing when I switched to Hondata and that fixed it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How long have you been running like this and do you smell gas fumes under the hood or anything. I have the same problem as the siis2fast, but I'm pretty sure the canister serves a function and I wonder if it would be safe to unplug it???

Any Comments...

Quad-Damag

my hondata has no prob with cold start

turboteg96

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quad-Damge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my hondata has no prob with cold start</TD></TR></TABLE>
Were you originally OBD2??
Nevermind I just read your profile.
HMMM, I just tried it myself and the car started flawlessly.

Well, If anything bad happens, I have my fire extenguisher(SP) right next to me

tthame1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboteg96 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

How long have you been running like this and do you smell gas fumes under the hood or anything. I have the same problem as the siis2fast, but I'm pretty sure the canister serves a function and I wonder if it would be safe to unplug it???

Any Comments...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope, no problems whatsoever and its been unplugged for about 4 months now. It took me a year of fighting thinking it was in the tuning b/f I realized what the real problem was.

turbo*s2k

So all you have to do is un-plug the purge valve? Does it need to be removed completely?

PM-Performance

that doesnt fix it . i dont even have the purge stuff in and mine on cold start idles in the 10's then 12's then when warms up idles 14.7 or so . in the old software i dont think you can adjust cold/hot starts, but in the new software you can adjust that.

Mase

ive come across the problem once or twice as well, changing the ECT is **** because its not suppose to change the fuel % when the car warms up to operating temps but it does.....

PM-Performance

to the people saying it starts flawlessly, are you actually looking at your a/f readings ?
What size injectors are you running? it might be a tuning issue, mine was doing the same thing bfore. we messed with the idle maps for a while, but it was still ruff. I changed the IACV duty cycle and runs like a champ now. I run 860's though. thats a must on bigger injectors.

stevel

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr206 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to the people saying it starts flawlessly, are you actually looking at your a/f readings ?
What size injectors are you running? it might be a tuning issue, mine was doing the same thing bfore. we messed with the idle maps for a while, but it was still ruff. I changed the IACV duty cycle and runs like a champ now. I run 860's though. thats a must on bigger injectors. </TD></TR></TABLE>

did you increase or decrease the duty cycle?

i usually increase it but wondering what worked for you.

s

PM-Performance

i increase mine , its at prolly like %75 or so. the car idles a **** load smoother. and starts alot easier.

ladysman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mase &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive come across the problem once or twice as well, changing the ECT is **** because its not suppose to change the fuel % when the car warms up to operating temps but it does.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

No ****? I guess I haven't noticed it. Mine idles at like 12.5 when cold then goes to 14.8. You notice this on every app?

Spunkster

Have any of you checked to see what a stock ecu with stock injectors do with a wideband on cold start up?

Many times people think there is a terrible problem only becasue they are able to see what is actually happening, when in fact it may have been like that all along. Sometimes too much information can be a bad thing.

ladysman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spunkster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have any of you checked to see what a stock ecu with stock injectors do with a wideband on cold start up?

Many times people think there is a terrible problem only becasue they are able to see what is actually happening, when in fact it may have been like that all along. Sometimes too much information can be a bad thing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good point.

PM-Performance

very good point. i think stock injectors idle at like 12's on cold start up. this is just off the top of my head thoguh, i could be off.

boosted hybrid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spunkster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have any of you checked to see what a stock ecu with stock injectors do with a wideband on cold start up?

Many times people think there is a terrible problem only becasue they are able to see what is actually happening, when in fact it may have been like that all along. Sometimes too much information can be a bad thing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

My bone stock 96 DX hatch cold starts at 11.8~12.2:1 until FOT (full operating temp) then idles around 14.7~15:1. Its pretty common to run the engine rich on cold start from the OEM's.

DIRep972

iTrader: (1)

what I learned from Ben Strader @ EFI101 is that on cold starts the fuel does not vaporize very well. In order to get enough fuel that will vaporize and combust (liquad doesn't want to burn like vapor) to keep the car running it must be rich.

Boofster

I had to play with the IAC vave duty. It makes a huge difference. Stock is 50, I had it at 75 and it would almost die at mild starts. There are actually 3 different cold start states. I tried 40 and that would bounce too much. Trying 60 this week. So far so good. Makes me wanna get the datalogging so i can tune this myself without driving to the shop every time.

But either way, it should not die.