hondad6

Just traded the CRX for a turbo DA. The guy needed a reliable car and I wanted to go turbo. Car has been running 8 psi for about a year.

Motor is a b18b1 stock I am thinking it is a jdm usa turbo kit, so it is most likely going in the trash or back on ebay. I am keeping anything I can but it probably wont be much.

Car is having problems idk how long it has been acting up. Up until 4k it is fine no problems, but after it just falls on its face. does not feel like detonation because it is not choppy it just falls flat, if the throttle is held slightly open the car pulls ok up to red line. no boost though gauge indicates like 2psi. It also will not keep water in the radiator. The reservoir fills up so I'm thinking blown head gasket.

Plans 250-300hp street weekend play toy.

Parts list
-possibly silver surfer but i will talk to TheSodan about turbo options.
-possibly ramhorn manifold
-450 or larger injectors possibl id 1000's. I have red top I'm guessing 350's but I want larger so there is room for later.
-Waste gate??? opinions are welcome.
-Ecu is chipped but I need a burner and software thinking chrome pro or ectune, hondata??
-arp head studs
-oem headgasket
-copper spray
-all new seals
-possibly b16, gsr, or type r oil pump
-new oem rod and main bearings
-arp rod bolts
-gates or hks timing belt
-if needed weisco pistons and hbeam rods

hondad6

This is the pic i have of the car others to come during the tear down.

cleansi

start with a compresion and leak down check go from there

if your only looking for 250 to 300 your build should be pretty strait foward

any quality name brand is what you should start with

oem timing belt but to each its own

talk to your tuner see what he recomends when it comes to tuning your car

hondad6

cyl 1 165
cyl 2 170
cyl 3 170
cyl 4 100

Head gasket blown. Removed head no real evidence of blown head gasket but i'm sure it was. Also noticed a new symptom. At idle while warm oil pressure drops to almost zero. Not sure if it is a faulty sender or what because the idiot light does not com on on the dash. so i'm probably going to pull the bottom end and just rebuild the whole motor.

some pics of the cyl and valves some of the valves look burnt but idk what do you think?

hondad6

some other random pics

Builda'Teg_92

Theres a 90* fitting coming off the return of the turbo? i thought that was a no no.

Builda'Teg_92

hondad6

I thought so too, on the elbow, but the turbo has been running fine for about a year. It does not leak or have any noticeable shaft play. I will most likely change it though. Chrome pro huh I will look into it and see, I have heard a lot of good things about it.

sirtef9

iTrader: (4)

nice ,another g2 integra build

BigMike0147

It looks like you're on the right track. The head could have a slightly uneven deck also. You should send it to a machine shop and have them clean it up with a deck job and check the valves.

If you're wanting to keep the power pretty low, you can probably stop with that. However, a lot of people might tell you to re-ring the motor as well while you're in it. Also, figure out why the oil pressure reads so low. Make sure the dummy light comes on when you turn the key to "on". If not, maybe the bulb's out. If it does, then maybe the sender unit may be off since the light should come on at 5psi I believe.

If you decide to build the motor, welcome to the money pit games.

jdm_h22

As far as engine overhaul..

I'd say if your pinching pennies and have a conservative power goal, just do your bearings,rings,oil and water pump. That would make for a solid bottom end.

And i'm w/ Big Mike, work the head for peace of mind.

BigMike0147

Yep, ^^ That would make it plenty strong for the power goals with a good tuner

hondad6

Yeah I am pulling the bottom end once I find a cherry picker. The motor was not smoking at all when I pulled the head except for excessive white on a cold day, most likely because of coolant in cyl 4. I am deff gonna do bearings, rings and, oil pump. I am thinking about upgrading to a si or gsr oil pump because of the extra load caused by the turbo. Is this a valid option?

Head will be off the the shop once I get some money, prob in the next week or two. I see some evidence of oil starvation in the cam journals intake side closest to the cam gears. Could this be caused by the feed line to the turbo branched off of the oil sender? Possibly causing oil to bypass the head and go into the turbo? It does not have a pressure reducer just an open line to the turbo. You can kind of see the setup in the pic of the block.

I also need to find a tuner probably gonna have to go to Atlanta, so if anyone knows of a good shop let me know.

GEN2 LS

iTrader: (3)

drop the bottom end from the bottom of the car. I've done all my DA's like that. just have the car on jackstands undo the crossmember and everything down low that needs to be unhooked. Next jack the car up, remove the jackstands and lower the car onto the frame, undo the motor motors and jack the car back up, TADA! trans and bottom end resting on the ground or dolly to make it easy to move around.

hondad6

I also need an LS obd1 distributor. The one that was on the car, in the pics, is for a VTEC motor, only the top bolt lines up. (Massive oil leak) Anyone want to trade, or buy it, or sell me an LS dist let me know.

GEN2 LS

iTrader: (3)

I have a obd1 ls dizzy, do you have paypal?

hondad6

I do have pay pal. How much you want for it? Shoot me a pm and maybe we can work something out.

BigMike0147

I have an extra LS distributor too probably if you need one. Just LMK

hondad6

Yeah just let me know what or how much you want for it.

hondad6

So I'm debating on buying a newer motor off of hmotorsonline.com http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc...age&item=30026 but all they have are the b18b ls motors. What problems could i run into with going this route. If i use all of the b18a stuff i have, will it work? I have read a few posts talking about bad idle issues but nothing too bad. This seems to me to be a better route than rebuilding from a cost standpoint. Once I get the car running, build the bottom end I have into an lsv turbo.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Never heard of idle issues based upon B18B vs B18A. You're fine getting a B18B.

hondad6

Cool, I did not think it would be a problem. They are the same motor except for a few upgrades. I also would like your expert opinion on what turbo options I have I saw where you posted on another post about the GT3251B in the 50 trim. I would like to be at full boost at around 3500rpm. Somewhere around 250-300hp will be plenty for my first turbo build. The next build will be like calidad's, but that is a while down the road.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I need to know the following.. (PM me, please)

1. Budget for the turbocharger (Maximum willingness to spend on the turbo only)
2. Purpose of the car (Drag/street, street/Road race, full drag, full circuit, etc) NO E.T estimates please!
3. What fuel you plan the run for the power (91 octane, 93 octane etc)
4. What flange you want to stay in (T25, T3, T4)
5. Bearing system (Ball-bearing, journal bearing, etc)
6. What exhaust manifold are you using? - plan to keep A/C, or Power steering?

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I wouldn't go ripping the bottom end apart just yet
did you try a new sending unit or different gauge? did you check to see if the pressure relief valve was siezed or faulty? If you're on a budget then rebuilding the motor might eat unneeded funds. However if you're intent on doing it just remember you have to break in the motor.... so that's more time and money as well (oil, filters, etc)

And just because the ecu was chipped doesn't mean it was tuned... what you described when the car wasrrunning sounds like a lean fueling issue.. so it probably wasn't tuned.

Do you know what fuel pump is in it? running any boosted Honda on a stock pump is a no no, which could also have caused what you are describing.

A silver surfer is overkill unless you're planning on building the motor and making a lot more power in the future. TheShodan can find you a turbo more suited to your goals and power band (read: something that can support your power goals with slightly quicker spool)

As for the turbo kit that came with the car, the turbo manifold can be reused... cast is cast, no matter who made it, and will support your goals without an issue... a ramhorn will have more lag and you wont really see a performance improvement at your power level, the charge piping and intercooler can also be reused (depending on core size) as well as things like the blow off valve ad wastegate

You don't need pistons and rods for 300

Gates timing belt is the way to go

All b series oil pumps are identical, no matter what motor they came off of, they all have the same part number (obd1 and obd2 pumps have different part numbers due to obd2 having the crank wheel on the crank, but still obd1 pumps have the same number for all models, same for obd2)

I, assuming the car had a stronger clutch in it? It should've since stock won't handle a lot of power... if it doesn't you'll need one

hondad6

There is oil starvation evidence in the cam journals so there is a problem somewhere. I am going to buy a motor from hmotorsonline. That way I know it is a solid motor. I was told VTEC oil pumps produce more pressure to support the drop during VTEC usage. I have no idea if this is true or not.