SolidSpruce

Hey Guys,

i recently installed a turbo kit on my 92 civic hatchback - running 5psi solid on a turbonetics wastegate, with no extra fuel management, intercooling, or ignition system all on stock internals, it pulls very descent, and blows away any cheesy mods like 'headers, intake, exhaust that i had, not to mention how cool it sounds!!!

Its been running for over 2 weeks, and i have not heard any detonation/pre-ignition (which i am fearful of and very paranoid about).

here is a picture of my setup http://swapnetx.com/beancan/Pics%20t...t/DCP02209.JPG

Anyways, ive only run into a small problem, and its the typical check engine light when the map sensor feels over a bar of boost, or when it crosses over 0 bar - you guys that know turbo's know what im talking about.

ive tried the old check valve trick and it worked a little better, but trying to keep this all home depot style, are there any other inexpensive ways to trick the map sensor?

thanks for your help and reply's in advance!
MARLON

b18bturbo

get a strong check valve like fish tank valve.

Pritos

I think your setup has some major flaws and you are really confused.

"Anyways, ive only run into a small problem, and its the typical check engine light when the map sensor feels over a bar of boost, or when it crosses over 0 bar you guys that know turbo's know what im talking about."

Is the wg even hooked up? Do u have an fmu? Sounds like you've got a recipe for disaster.

As for your map sensor, if 2 check valves dont work, add another, etc...

SolidSpruce

ya, sorry about the old pic guys, it from back when i FIRST put the turbo in, and was fine tuning it, the waste gate is now hooked up with a custom tap i did to the charge pipe, ive got a fuel pressure regulator hitting near 60psi , and i do get small backfires when shifting, so i know its getting its fuel.

thanks for the input and advice.

mARLON


[Modified by SolidSpruce, 4:18 PM 3/20/2002]

ATurboCivic2NV

it is not over a bar. a bar would be 14.7psi your motor would be in peices. you mean over .00000001 bar or clost to that. and actually i have boosted that much and not get a cel except when i would do it for over a second. well any way, you are playing with fire and you and your engine will get burned with out some extra fuel. i promise you.


[Modified by ATurboCivic2NV, 4:20 PM 3/20/2002]

SolidSpruce

well what do you suggest i do for fuel? ive done some homework on this, and at 5psi people arnt putting in 35lb fuel injectors...

if i was doing 7-8, yes WAAAY more fuel, and more boost than that - lower compression would be in demand. and for sure intercooled.

but at 5psi i have no detonation.
the wastegate is hooked up, and holds solid at 5psi. all the way through vtec up to redline....

thanks for the feedback

MARLON

brcivic411

and i thought the check valves WERE home depot style!

SolidSpruce

whats the real work around for the map sensor? ive heard of getting the ecu reprogrammed to accept boost, and other signal modifiers - that tap between it.

but when the average joe gets a turbo installed at a shop, what is used....i know its not fish tank check vavles.

im asking for advice , not criticism.

MARLON

b18bturbo

the correct way to trick the map is get hondata. or get a secondary map sensor like the vafc hack. or finally if you wnat to skim out and go cheap you can get missing link. 65 bucks and you dont need any check valves after that,.

actually many shops use fish tank check valves or any check valves that they can get there hands

ATurboCivic2NV

go to you auto parts store and look for a brand name replacement part that says HELP! on it. i think they are in a red packaging. look for the check valve in there. remove you map sensor attack it to the check valve make sure it is the right way and then attach the check valve to your manifold and you are done. but with it like this driving will be ruff. when you shift and go from boost to vacuum, it will be really ruff. what i did is make a little hole in the hose that is connected to the map sensor so it can suck in air. this will allow the check valve to release the pressure really quick and when you shift it will be smooth like you have a computer!

last thing is to plug up the hole where your map sensor was

SolidSpruce

thanks, i'll let u know how it worked.

MARLON

DSF

Read this post...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=145281

You can't always "hear" detonation. I would AT LEAST get an FMU to handle your fueling. Or lack there of

ATurboCivic2NV

o and the check valve will run you like 3 bucks and maybe 1 for the hose. really cheap

RGAZ

Wrongo on the check valve. They should bleed boost to the atm, not in series with the MAP.

like this:

Manifold-----Tee-----Tee-----MAP
....................|..........|
................valve.....valve

So the valves allow boost to bleed off.

You will need two. I have used Tetra brand from Petsmart.

You gotta add more fuel though no matter what.

Randy

ATurboCivic2NV

wrong? then why does it work? the hole in the line bleeds off the pressure. duh!!
i guess you could do it his way but i know mine works and uses less ****.

DSF

Basically what you've made is a VERY poor-man's Missing Link. All the Missing Link is, is a double check valve. It allows vacuum to reach the MAP, but at boost onset it closes and bleeds off built up boost pressure at the MAP, so that it reads atmospheric. Can be done with 2 regular check valves and some zip-ties for good measure.

93LSivic

How do you fine tune a turbo system that doesnt even incorporate a fuel system? The B&M style FPR is a regulator not a riser. You need to get yourself an FMU and a fuel pump before you want to boost any higher. Your car must run awfull with 60 psi static fuel pressure.

X2BOARD

Do you intend to run over 5psi on this setup ?

AbaZ

gotta love the Home Depot style setups... Good job man.. You should be ok if you keep it at 5psi (good gas) and back down the timing a few degrees, I made a custom setup for my friend 92 hatch (z6 motor) and he ran 6psi for 6 months no problems.. Only diff he did have a intercooler.

Check valves on the z6 are kinda gay, since that map sensor bolts right down to the t-body, I inserted a small tube from that spot, then attached a vacuum line to it and inserted about 4 check valves.. with 3 valves the light would come on sometimes. but 4 seemed to do the trick..

This is how a ghetto/check valve is suppose to be setup.


You can buy ones from Pet stores or automotive, they both work.

Good luck
Jeff

Arturbo

That would be me that said that..hehe

art

Type-ARR

if your going to do something half *** why bother?

pornstarSR

i have one question....im looking at your set up and i cant seem to find a blowoff....if you are running 7 psi....with quick shifts no blow off how long do you think your turbo is going to last.....blow offs arent just for the noise....they actually do something....

blowoffs release the extra pressure form when you close the throttle plate and the turbo is still spining, its not a long time but its long enough, what happens is the wave of boost is still moving tward your throttle body, if its closed what does it do, hits that like a wall and travels back, what then happens is it smacks into you impeller blades on the turbo and shocks the internals of the turbo really bad...i have seen friends trying to run high boost and the blow off valve not opening enough, getting alot of shaft play in the turbos....

SolidSpruce

....the blow off valve is on the upper charge pipe, under the the strut bar, near the engine bay wiring harness, its black like the rest of the pipe, so its a little difficult to see in the pic, but ya, its there....its on the side/bottom half off the pipe...yes, i know how they work, and mine works fine.

thanks for watching out for me though!!
i appreciate your input


[Modified by SolidSpruce, 6:10 AM 3/22/2002]

SolidSpruce

half assed? for $650 i ran a 14.8 w/ 5psi, wait til i upgrade the internals, and put a wicked 5th injector setup and run into the 12's for under $1,000,

the car originally came with a CX, i picked up this sohc vtec for a little over $250 w/ tranny and ecu, had 50k miles on it from a 95 ex automatic, if i pop the motor (which im being cautious not to) i will be out a total of what? $250?!!! geez give me a break, if u bust ur b16, go cry, cuz they actually cost money to replace, d16z6's are like candy and come by the handful, pick one up and it will work miracles for you too, and dont dog the little guys for pushing big power, cuz ultimately isnt it whoever can run the fastest for cheapest??? ......i put the engine in my self, and just did the turbo, if u havnt done your own swap to your own car, then dont bother posting anymore messages on this topic.



[Modified by SolidSpruce, 6:21 AM 3/22/2002]

Arturbo

Wow 14.8, I ran that stock.j/k. hehe

art