Jsarv

Quick rundown

H22a EJ
Darton Flanged liners
8.5-1 Wisecos
Mezier Electri c Pump
All In Fab 1/2 Tucked Radiator dual pass

Temps at idle are around 196 @ ambient of 75* with fan running. Driving @ ambihent of 75* they are around 210* fan still running or off, actually starts to creep toward 216* when fan is off driving.

AFR's are 14.7 idle/cruise.
Timing is conservative.
Pump is moving coolant well.
Temps verified with temp gun.

We were having this problem before the built motor on a stock water pump, so we went with an electric pump. No help...

Tried with 190* thermostat and a punched out thermostat. No difference.

I'm at a loss, the radiator is getting good flow and is not blocked in anyway shape or form. Is centered behind the intercooler. You can feel air being sucked from the front of the intercooler when fan is on, so airflow is good.

My last thought was the all in fab fan shroud is too flat and close to the radiator killing airflow during driving... I cant get ahold of him to talk to him about it and really about ready to chuck the damn thing in the trash...

Anyone got any ideas? any help is appreciated.

Also turbo blanket and wrapped dp vs unwrapped and no blanket made 0 difference in coolant temps.... Just a noticeable difference in ambient engine bay temps...


Jerod

h22-eg-hatch

iTrader: (1)

Weird. I have a turbo H22 as well. No electric water pump.
And I can let that thing idle forever. Without overheating
Darton mid sleeves
Even when I'm cruising it for over an hour. No overheating
Maybe u got air in the system.
Or
Busted head gasket.?

Jsarv

Fresh build. Head gasket is good. I've bled the system 3 times now. No air. And its the same problem I had before the build with a stock pump....

citrus3000psi

Does the overflow get air bubbles once you turn off the car after a drive?

Jsarv

Nope no air bubbles.

boosted_D

iTrader: (1)

Is it possible to throw in a stock full length radiator to see what happens?

If not you may need to find a couple bad *** little 700-800 cfm fans to put on that tucked rad.

Jsarv

No its not, I spoke with mezier earlier and the poorly designed shroud ( flat and less than 3/4 of an inch from the back of the radiator) is most likely killing g the airflow through the radiator. Also suggested an expansion tank due to the fact the outlet of the engine is higher than the inlet of the radiator...

lsturbo33

Pull the front bumper off and drive it and see if your temps go down.

Jsarv

Front bumper hasn't been on since the rebuild...

sleepencivic

Do you have access to a coolant presure tester? If not next time you drive the car get it up to normal temps then turn the car off, periodicaly check the radiator hoses they should hold pressure, if you squeeze the hose and its limp after a few minutes you have a coolant leak either in the engine or externally..

H22Krew

What kind of fan and shroud are you using? I run the T1 Koyo Rad with Shroud and Spal fan...I was having similar problems with the car creeping up to 200f at idle and a little higher in traffic, and especially afater a few hard pulls on the highway it would creep up. Installed a New thromostat and drilled a few holes in the top of it to allow air bubbles to escape. Tried to use the Hondata S300 to turn the fan on at a lower temp and that didnt work, so my tuner told me to pull the plug off the thermostat and jump the two wires on the plug and that keeps your fan on at all times. After I did that, the car takes a little longer to warm up, but in the hottest party of the summer at idle and in traffic never goes above 195, and on the highway and doing hard pulls, never goes above 180-185....Now to try and get control of the fan with the S300 so I can remove the jumper wire and just set it to cut in at 195 and cut out at 185...

CGcivicGSR

I had similar problems with my h22 turbo rywire tucked radiator problem was bumper support and intercooler was blocking radiator trimmed bumper support and ran two small 8" eBay fans