SpaceJamMartian

Let me start off I know cars pretty well.

But I have never researched turbo charging. So I am not sure what to look for. I am interested in a 97 Civic with a D16Y8 with a turbo, and the owner is asking $4000.

Here is the ad:

am putting this out there to see what offers I get on it. Summer is here and my winter project is pretty much done so I don't really need two fun little cars. This is a black 1997 Civic EJ coupe. The motor is a d16y8 from the EX model civic. As far as I know the internals are stock but I haven't dug into it at all to see so I will advertise it as stock. It has a log manifold not the typical HF manifold with an adapter. The waste-gate is a Turbonetics with a 7lb spring. The turbo is a TRUE Garrett Honeywell not a $100 Chinese junker. The car runs really strong and is a very fun little daily driver. It's not going to set any records at the track but it should put a grin on your face. The car was very dirty when I took the photos but it cleans up well. It probably could use a buff to really stand tall. The emblems have been blacked out on back, the grille has been deleted similar to the Si models. The fogs are glass but I don't know if they are true Stanley's or not. There is 145k miles on the shell and the miles on the motor are unknown to me. It doesn't consume any oil or coolant. There is no check engine light on and it fires up strong every morning. The interior is clean and hasn't been painted any dumb bright colors. The heat works, no a/c or power steering. The headlights are black housing (jdm style I guess) and it has Mugen style front lip. I'm sure I'm missing stuff but you get the idea if you're looking for this type of car. I will gladly answer any questions you have about the car. The issues with it is a crack in the driver's door. It looks like there was a skim coat of Bondo on it and it has a crack in it now. It's not super obvious but annoying to me because I like my cars to be spotless. Also the driver's window is on track now but when it is rolled down all the way it comes off the track. I haven't made an attempt to fix this because it's been winter and hasn't been an issue. I always run full synthetic and 93 octane fuel even though it's a low boost simple setup. I am meticulous about my cars and this one would probably be 100% mint if I wasn't building another Honda all winter. It's been my reliable, fun daily while building the other car and it's served it's purpose. I no longer need to fun cars so I'm mainly looking to trade for close to stock Hondas or Acuras. I'd like a clean stock LS Integra or dohc swapped civic (non turbo). Something simple, clean and mostly untouched. I don't like rust, lots of ebay parts and rattley old boxes that barely idle. Feel free to email me your offers. Thanks.

Here are the pics:

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Well, its a 60 trim garrett turbocharger, T3/T04E good to over 430whp if the engine was built properly.looks like the parts are quality, but you need to go there and drive this if you're thinking of putting $4k on it. Start reading about turbochargers from the FAQs here first.

SpaceJamMartian

ya just started reading the faqs on turbos

any comments on the price?

hickle

seems a bit high, aftermarket parts only add value if theyre worth that much to the buyer... talk him down a little

kreatekustomz

Anyone can put a turbo on... Assume the car is on its last leg. Approach the car with that additude and prove yourself wrong. I bought a boosted car that the owner claimed had many internal parts, even provided reciepts. 4 days later cracked a ring land, tore it down, and learned it was stock... I dont believe anyone anymore.

turbo97coupe

First and foremost is the car tuned , I don't see that mentioned anywhere . If so find out what the fuel system consist of and which ems hes running. And i personally think the price is a little high for that car with cracking Bondo with a unknown mileage engine IMO .

deeweezy187

just build one don't buy one then you know what parts are in it for sure.

SpaceJamMartian

Is it even ok to run 7lb boost on a stock internal engine?

What should my target price be then? $2000?

shocker911

def dout that the car is tuned. i myself would not buy a boosted Y8 unless i KNEW it was tuned with paperwork to back it up. Also the Y8 is notorious for having a weaker oil pump then the rest of the D-series motors.

low ball him worst he can say is no.

SpaceJamMartian

Ill ask all about the tuning on it. So is this a bad engine to boost or what? I want something reliable and no surprises.

azandford

if oyur worried about surprises this is not the car for you... i was in a similar situation as yours.. i ended up buying my b16a2 turbo for 5k...totally ripped off and it died 6 months later even though it was supposedly rebuilt right before i got it and had all these upgraded internals.... for all the money i spent i could have bought a shell and built the thing myself right

boostB4beauty

This is actually a decent motor to boost.....if done properly.
minimum, this boosted motor should have quality Rods, pistons, Headstud upgrade and if you are lucky, a decent built head and cam.
Start prodding this guy for info about it. we can only help verify stuff through pics, and even then who's to say the pics are accurate?
i personally think you shouldn't bother, something about his ad and attitude just don't sit right with me.
There are a lot of "quality boosted vehicles" out there, and then there are the few that are actual quality...get my drift? good luck man, keep us posted!

SpaceJamMartian

So I should reject this vehicle right now since the internals are not known. I didn't know if forged internals were a MUST on lightly boosted engines or not. But the rule is all boosted engines must have been rebuilt with forged internals, is this right?

If this isn't right, then I would base my decision on if it has been tuned or not. But if the stock D16y8 internals can't handle 7lbs of boost reliably then I am not interested.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

that won't happen. If I were selling, I'd just keep it at that point. I believe the point that everyone is making is that you need to physically check it out first before offering ANYTHING. then work with the seller. doing it over the internet is just not smart at all. even if coming from a longer distance.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

7psi, on a 60 trim isn't bad.. but you need to physically check this car out, and bring someone who is mechanically inclined with you. There is no "rule" that all boosted engines must have been rebuilt with forged internals. Plenty of stock blocked cars have run for years without issue. Its in the tuning, how it drives, etc.