BoRiCuA

I do my D ARPs in 3 stages..
1...15lbs
2...30lbs
3...62lbs

Just want to make sure, do the studs go with the long thread down or short side threads down on the block?

warwagon

they should only go one way, check to see which side the nuts fit on and thats your up side!!!!! and if i remeber right!! the top has arp etched into them

ladysman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoRiCuA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I do my D ARPs in 3 stages..
1...15lbs
2...30lbs
3...62lbs

Just want to make sure, do the studs go with the long thread down or short side threads down on the block?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Long thread into the block.
Torque seems OK. I did 20,40,60.

Also be sure to clean the threads on the block before putting them on.

BoRiCuA

SHHHHHHHHHHH are you kidding me i put long thread down on the block and it's all assembled......

BoRiCuA

I mean long thread up, short thread onto the block? will this ruin everything?

Cruiser G

um, why didnt you ask before you did it

BoRiCuA

well if the nuts fit on maybe i do have them right,i mean we went with the conclusion that if we use short side thread up their won't be enough thread to fit the nuts on and torque so we went with long thread up, cmon someone please tell me if i have to redo this?

ATS*Mark

is there a hex tip at the top of the stud?

Br1t1shguy

If you used a hex wrench to install them you put them in right.

If the hex went into the block, you did it wrong.

D-Man

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoRiCuA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well if the nuts fit on maybe i do have them right,i mean we went with the conclusion that if we use short side thread up their won't be enough thread to fit the nuts on and torque so we went with long thread up, cmon someone please tell me if i have to redo this?</TD></TR></TABLE>


your gonna have to redo it and put the long into the block no doubt ....and next time IM me if you want a quicker anwser

edit:neither of my D ARP sets have a hex on either end...hexless.

BoRiCuA

well the arp 's i bought for the single cam v-tec has no hex key on either side, man i don't have money for another head gasket is it possible to double nut it and take the studs out without removing the head? d-=man i don't have permission to IM you i guess i'm still a noob.

ATS*Mark

might work it might not . look at the studs . is there all thread showing???? if so then you will be ok . but if there is unthreaded stud showing , wont work . this is with the head on of course

BoRiCuA

ok i did torque the studs 5lbs into the block and 15,30,62. their's about 5 lines of thread showing from the top ?

D-Man

Did you flip them around and put the long into the block?


Modified by D-Man at 9:58 AM 5/7/2004

98CivicEXT

There's 2 different types of ARP studs for D series motors. There's the D16 10mm for older D16A6's and such. Then there's the D16Y studs (these are about an inch shorter than the 10mm ones). Also, I had 2 new sets the D16 and the D16Y's both had the HEX on the top.

D-Man

yup,two sets..one for A and Zs and one for Ys ...That's the next thing to look at if the studs were put in right.

BoRiCuA

wait now i'm really confused mine had no hex key at all on either side!! no i havent turned them around yet d-man, i'm hoping i don't have to redo it, but from the looks of it i'm gonna have to .

do you think i'm going to have to get another head gasket or can i reuse the same one which is new , but i did use copper seal also HELPPPPPP.......

ATS*Mark

if you didnt seal the head down then you should be ok , just pull the head off and turn the studs around . you said there were about 5 studs showing , was there exposed untreaded stud showing?

BoRiCuA

i did seal the head and torque specs was applied, i used copper seal to seal the head. also hella their's about 5 lines of thread showing on the top studs.THEIR WAS NO HEX KEY!!

BoRiCuA

Bump.....

fjt

U put them like this...


If you see the ARP have an Allen screw on one of the ends..thats the side that goes up

D-Man

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fjt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you see the ARP have an Allen screw on one of the ends..thats the side that goes up </TD></TR></TABLE>

only problem is not all ARPs have the Allen screw on one end

ladysman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D-Man &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

only problem is not all ARPs have the Allen screw on one end </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep, mine don't. Maybe the new batch does.

RyanEJ8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ladysman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yep, mine don't. Maybe the new batch does.</TD></TR></TABLE>

My Y8 ARP head studs did.

Jaker

The Y8 studs have the hex in the top of the stud. The A6-Z6 do not. The reason you need to turn the studs around, is that the long threaded portion goes into the block to allow the most threads to go into the ALUMINUM block. The more threads, the better. The top doesn't need all those threads, because the nut is steel.

If you have not yet started the motor, take it apart, clean all the copper spray off the head gasket and the head/block with acetone, and start over. The studs get FINGER tightened into the block after you have cleaned out the threads on both the stud and the block. Use some new moly grease to thread the studs into the block. You don't have to use the ARP stuff. You can buy molybdenum disulphide grease (moly grease) at any parts store.