Teg4e

Well, I've had a year of happy boosting without any problems, but last week I noticed my a/c wasn't cold like I remember it being. In fact, pushing the a/c button had no effect on the air temperature whatsoever. The fans still blew though, and I couldn't find anything wrong visually.

The service center at a local dealer though showed me there's a leak in one of the a/c tubes. It's a hole in that a/c line which goes straight up and down, and my turbo compressor pushes fairly deep into it. Sorry I don't have any pics, but if you have a turbo Honda you should know exactly the line I'm talking about. The line was wrapped in some reflective coating insulation, but apparently that wasn't good enough.

So here's my situation: they estimate it'll cost $700 for them to replace the parts and do the labor. ($100/hour ) Can I replace this part myself? Anyone done this themselves? Also, how should I make sure this doesn't happen again?

I know, either way, I'll have to take it somewhere professional to get the a/c filled, recharged, what not.

Oh, and for you hardcore kids out there, removing my a/c is NOT an option.



Modified by Teg4e at 12:26 AM 8/5/2003

GSRrR

just buy the line at a junkyard and replace it. very easy to do. i use the magical zip ties to keep my new line away from the turbo. i have yet to recharge it because i think i might need a new dryer.

edit: i think the line blew because the turbo rubbed against it. well at least on mine. what kinda manifold was it?

Teg4e

I'm using a typical drag manifold.

yeah, mine's definitly rubbing against the line. It pushes into the line, though it was covered in insulation wrap, like I mentioned. Also, on hard acceleration, that turbo is going to be moving up and down along that line with the engine movement.

Teg4e

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSRrR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just buy the line at a junkyard </TD></TR></TABLE>

Can I pull that line off most any honda or just the integra?

falcongsr

you cant just replace the line. you have to replace the dryer any time you open up the system. the moisture in the atmosphere will screw up your AC system (read: early compressor failure) and you have to have a vacuum source to bring down the pressure in the system to charge it up with r-12 or r-134 refridgerant. its a fairly tedious process when done right.

i would go get the parts and then take it to a reputable non-dealer shop that specializes in hondas. a decent shop will do it right, charge you a lot less and probly be a good place to go for all future servicing.

Regalos420

Sort of OT, but does anyone's A/C overheat and make the popoff valve go off because of heat from the turbo? My A/C does that, I thought something was wrong with the A/C so I took it to Honda, they said that nothing was wrong and that I was simply overheating the system... I live in TX, so its pretty damned hot right now...

Anyhow, I went out and fabbed some heat shielding to block the heat radiation from all of the turbo parts... Its still overheating, but it works... barely. Pressure in the A/C system reads low when the engine is cold, and dangerously high when the engine is at full operating temp, near to Popoff level...

Anyone had a problem like this? Anyone know what other than heat may be wrong?

falcongsr

and its likely the HEAT from your turbo didnt break this line, but the friction from it contacting the line probly finally broke it. because the compressor housing doesnt get very hot.

Teg4e

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by falconGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you cant just replace the line. you have to replace the dryer any time you open up the system. the moisture in the atmosphere will screw up your AC system (read: early compressor failure) and you have to have a vacuum source to bring down the pressure in the system to charge it up with r-12 or r-134 refridgerant. its a fairly tedious process when done right.

i would go get the parts and then take it to a reputable non-dealer shop that specializes in hondas. a decent shop will do it right, charge you a lot less and probly be a good place to go for all future servicing.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wasn't planning on doing the refridgerant charging; I'd bring it to a shop for that. What's involved in the dryer you mention? Where does that connect?

Teg4e

bump

Teg4e

c'mon this has to have happened to someone else...

stierhund

I dont see why you cant just silver solder the hole up well, or use soft solder since its the cold side. Then take it to a local shop that can pull a vacuum on it and recharge the system... thats how the majority of leaks are fixed. But make sure you secure your line away from the turbo so it wont happen again.

T3T495GSR

i would just say get rid of the whole line, its annoying and gets in the way imo

tegasaurus

hahaha...

jb weld owns you... ask jonoknut - its exactly what he did... jb welded a very large crack/hole in his ac line - let it cure for about 30 hours... refilled his a/c and everything's good now.

Teg4e

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">jb weld owns you... ask jonoknut - its exactly what he did... jb welded a very large crack/hole in his ac line - let it cure for about 30 hours... refilled his a/c and everything's good now.
</TD></TR></TABLE>


interesting.... b/c this would obviously be the simplest solution

i'll have to take off the padding to see how big the hole/crack is first. thanks for the idea. any confirmation on what FalconGSR said?

falcongsr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Teg4e &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
thanks for the idea. any confirmation on what FalconGSR said?</TD></TR></TABLE>

consult a helms, a haynes, or even the pimplefaced punk behind the rear counter at pep boyz about the dryer canister.

you can skip replaceing the dryer if you want. its your car.

Teg4e

ok i believe you, but if i just jb weld it, i won't have to replace the tube..... however there is a hole in the system now, so i guess that would compromise the dryer in itself? can i replace this part myself?

bottlefedb18c1

i ran a drag manifold also and i didnt have a problem with my AC in my 95 integra

95gsrturbo

2 choices-
1) find a fellow teg friend who doens like AC and buy his for like 20 bucks
2) jusnk yard ,.. same deal....
takes about 20-30 mins-- just make sure you have 2 really good pliers.
need on both ends those things are tight -- but they are screw in . next before you install go to http://www.summitracing.com and order thermo-tec sleeve, its 2000 deg F resistant to heat. sleeve that line....
then put it one, but when you re do it-- leave the bottom bracket off, its not needed except to line up the metal hose where it was meant to be.... since the bracket is not on you can bend that line away from the turbo and DP----- drive to a shop and recharge......

EDIT : while yo uare at it sleeve that black rubber one that comes from the compressor too, mine got so hot it popped one day.
also JB weld wont hold for a long time because of the pressure in the line and it cant bond perfectly to that metal surface---- tried it.

Teg4e

thanks for the tips, i ordered one of those thermotec sleeves. they look like the perfect thing for that hose.

Tofurky

same thing happened to me, i took the car to an Auto A/C repair shop.... $200: they welded it up, and refilled. no problems whatsoever. lasted until it was stolen

BodyKits NW

If that's the case then how much is a dryer?

Teg4e

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">same thing happened to me, i took the car to an Auto A/C repair shop.... $200: they welded it up, and refilled. no problems whatsoever. lasted until it was stolen</TD></TR></TABLE>


was the turbo on the car when they did it? i'd like someone professional to do it, but my turbo is pushing into the actual line. I don't know if someone could get the equipment in there to work.

Tofurky

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Teg4e &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
was the turbo on the car when they did it? i'd like someone professional to do it, but my turbo is pushing into the actual line. I don't know if someone could get the equipment in there to work.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, the turbo was still on the car.
what actually happened was, the clamp was rubbing up against the line, and it slowly sliced away.

it only took a day and a half too.