Corksil

Just want to make it very clear. I live on an island. We don't have a dyno here. The nearest dyno is over $2k of travel expense to get to. I CANNOT put this car on a dyno.

With that said I'm tuning the following setup

b20 (10.1:1 cr)
pr3 b16 head
GSR intake cam (@ +3*adv)
ITR exhaust cam (@ -1*ret)
s300
rc440 injectors
255lph fuel pump
JRSC making ~10psi @ WOT (3.8nose, LS crank, MVM stepper)
LOTS of gauges
water/meth injection AEM kit
toda PLM 4/2/1 header (2.5" collector)
custom 2.5>3" test pipe
3" thermal exhaust
CAI (about 28" long w/cone filter)
quaife lsd
kosei k4r (205/50/16 sticky tires)

Lots of other stuff, but nothing relevant to making power..

I've got the car running and tuned, been driving it for a few thousand miles now on a rough tune.

Idling at ~17afr

WOT 10/11afr

cruising between 17 and 13 afr

boosting right around 10psi (only) at WOT.

Nothing is wrong with the car, everything is working perfectly but I'm trying to dial in my tune.

I haven't turned on the water/meth kit yet, because I want to lean out my WOT before adding the meth/octane-boost.

After a hard 3rd/4th/5th pull to redline, IAT climbs to ~180F and I believe it would hit 200F+ if I pulled all the way to redline in 5th gear (don't want to take the car over 120mph yet)

Any tips? This is the first car I'm tuning - I set the cam gears at +3 int and -1 exh because I've heard that's a good place to start.

If this were your car, what steps would you take?

I can send datalogs, just heading out for some 3am WOT pulls...

Need to get this tuned perfectly before I change pulleys and add another few psi of boost.

Thanks.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Wot afr is wayyyyy too rich. You should be closer to 12.5. Excessive fuelling can raise egts, wash out the cylinder walls/ring sealing, and just waste fuel

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

as wantboost said above
you also dont want it going that lean 17 afr your going to burn pistons or break ring lands
you should aim for 15-15.2 as the lean peak
at a constant cruise it should be around 14.5-14.7

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

What are your tuning values looking like?

That will complete the puzzle

While dyno tuning is preferred, plenty of cars have been street tuned without issue. Tl

The only problems are

1. Extremely dangerous and even fatal to you and those around you
2. Speeds reached while tuning can be (refer to #1) and the speeds reached while street tuning will result in possibilities of the following... fat speeding ticket plus points on license. Suspension of drivers license.Jail time and/or a huge *** fine. IInsurance companies will drop you and IF you do manage to get insurance it won't be anything close to cheap
3. Public roads are unprepared surfaces, so going wot could result in traction issues, poor datalog due to road conditions
4. A dyno cell offers complete control over ambient air temp, humidity, etc to ensure each pull from the baseline can be deemed accurate, this won't happen on the street.

Is there anyone who can help you tune? Maybe have friends up and down the road looking for cops/traffic? The best time to do street pulls is in the early morning 3am or so, due to most roads being nice and clear plus the cops would normally be busy with other calls at that time. Not doing traffic stops

Also don't do it on the weekend. That's when cops sit on the highway looking for drunk drivers leaving bars and clubs and parties... you'd make an easy target

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Oh and use the straightest road possible that's nice and flat... have a place to turn around to do another pull and always find multiple escape routes before starting so you have a way out should law enforcement show up

Corksil

Yes I understand things are running rich right now. After I broke in my new bearings I did my initial oil changes and was surprised at how black the oil was with low mileage. Bore wash causing blowby and excessive fouling of the oil would largely explain that.

There is much debate about proper AFR for the JRSC setup on a b-series. I'm here because I'm looking for the people (like you two) who have experience with this particular setup -- not a generalized understanding of AFRs and forced induction. It seems that the JRSC b-series wants things a little leaner than most other supercharger setups I've studied.

I've been driving the car by the AFR gauge and taking it easy on the motor until I get this tuned better. When I throw it in 5th and cruise around everyday driving speed, I hover right at 14.7, maybe a little below if I give it a tiny bit more than 7% tps.

Need to get this thing tuned right and then I'll turn on the methanol injection and adjust things as necessary.

Thanks to both of you and I appreciate your help thus far. You two have been very helpful getting my car this far along.

Corksil

I agree with everything you said - however, I simply cannot dyno tune the car. It's just not possible.

I've found one or two roads that will work alright, and I'm also working to get some brighter hi-beams so I can safely do a few WOT pulls early in the morning.

All tuning will be done on a closed course -- on private property, with appropriate permission from the deed holder.

I'm not actually "street" tuning on open public roads. But yeah, I agree with that... a dyno would be... so much more preferred.

Corksil

I've got a few datalogs and I can send my current map to anyone who wants to have a look.

I disabled the knock sensor because I'm afraid that blower noise will cause a false knock reading. Anyone successfully use the OEM knock sensor WITH the JRSC blower?

Also set up a lean protection so if my AFR is leaner than 13 at WOT for longer than 1s it will cut the fuel/ign.

Currently running a 170*F thermostat which is 10* cooler than OEM unless I'm mistaken.

Highest ECTs I have seen are ~208*F after hard driving and sitting in a drive-through with limited airflow. I've got a 2" full size aluminum radiator in the mail but it's a month late so I haven't installed it yet.

Considering an oil cooler because when the oil is at maximum temperature after high-rpm cruising the car idles at ~17psi oil pressure.

I've seen EGTs as high as 1300*F after extended cruising at 15.5 AFR.

Boost is kind of hard to monitor at WOT because it fluctuates but I'm making around ~10psi at maximum boost.

Looking at getting the following parts but I'd rather NOT because they are expensive and I don't think I NEED any of them once I get the car tuned right.

-oil cooler (mishimoto 19-row)
-LHT header (3" collector, 4/1 collector)
-proper full 3" test pipe (my current header has 2.5" collector so my test pipe adapts to 3")
- NGK BKR7E spark plugs (I don't know what I have in there now, cheap part store plugs)
-two slim puller fans if they clear the LHT header (only have one OEM fan now w/full rad)

Thoughts?

Vagitarian

210* IAT's are extremely high, I thought my car was stupid hot with 125* on its hottest day

17psi idling oil pressure is GOOD, its actually fairly high, alot of cars are under 10psi idle fully warmed

You cant make the adjustments yourself based off your logs? You clearly know the numbers are to rich or lean.... smooth it out!

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

I missed the IAT's
they are running high check your pump flow
have you got a resivour at least 1.5lt
are you useing a coolant mix for the LHT

Knock sensor will just cause trouble leave it off "we all do"
its only good till about 2500rpm then useless

dont cut fuel+ign you can cause more problems use just ign cut
read the hondata help file it explains why

plugs NGK BKR7EIX set at 28 thou work
the plugs you have now wont be helping your tune at all

oil cooler just get generic most brands you pay for the name
10 row with AN-10 lines is plenty unless your tracking the car