Help me spend 1800 dollars...
10-19-2004, 09:35 PM
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Help me spend 1800 dollars...
The story goes like this... So I've been saving my money and collecting parts to turbo my car(dodge neon) for about 3 years now.(Im a poor college student) I'm getting closer, but the end seems so far away and yet soo close.(some of you know what I mean) I need to spend this 1800 to get me the furthest, yet not restrict my abilities to meet my goals (500+whp/10 second pass)
What I need to finish my car...
Pistons, rods, rings, block machine work, cylinder head valve job, surface, and assembly, Diamond racing 13" wheels($75EA), fuel line, and fuel line fittings, and then pay for my 600 dollar bill for OEM parts that go on the block.
So "AS I SEE" right now are... *suggestions welcome
A)Take the 1800 and buy: Used TiAL 40mm gate (275), metal for my new turbo manifold(200), And custom Forward Motion Billet Oliver rods that are lengthened, with custom JE pistons, and rings (1300) And then wait for this summer to get money to do the rest....
or
B) go buy a COMPLETE running 2.4L for (800), buy a used gate (275), make a new manifold(200), buy the 13" wheels (150), and buy the fuel **** I need(100), getting the LMA-2 for my LM1 wideband (100), and paying for dyno time and race gas...175(enough for an hour...should be enough)
C) buy eagle rods and JE pistons with rings(800), get machine work on block(300), buy stock gaskets and parts etc...(700) wait for money to make manifold and buy gate. (christmas gifts...maybe)
The downside to A is that I still dont have a car running.
The downside to B is that I still cant afford insurance...so track only :-D...and I'm limited to what my bottom end can handle, and if I blow it up Im right back where I started.
the downside to C is that the car STILL isn't running, but it will be stronger than a stock 2.4L, and done sooner than idea B....but wont be as strong or coated as idea B. BUT it will run.
Upside to B...I can built up my "good" engine the right way with the forged custom coated pistons, oliver rods, coated cylinder head..the works. but it will take prolly another two years until I get this done.
I may be able to afford insurance....if my parents decided they wanted to help me out. thats a 50/50....maybe better since I have no mode of transportation down here at college.
what do you guys suggest?
What I need to finish my car...
Pistons, rods, rings, block machine work, cylinder head valve job, surface, and assembly, Diamond racing 13" wheels($75EA), fuel line, and fuel line fittings, and then pay for my 600 dollar bill for OEM parts that go on the block.
So "AS I SEE" right now are... *suggestions welcome
A)Take the 1800 and buy: Used TiAL 40mm gate (275), metal for my new turbo manifold(200), And custom Forward Motion Billet Oliver rods that are lengthened, with custom JE pistons, and rings (1300) And then wait for this summer to get money to do the rest....
or
B) go buy a COMPLETE running 2.4L for (800), buy a used gate (275), make a new manifold(200), buy the 13" wheels (150), and buy the fuel **** I need(100), getting the LMA-2 for my LM1 wideband (100), and paying for dyno time and race gas...175(enough for an hour...should be enough)
C) buy eagle rods and JE pistons with rings(800), get machine work on block(300), buy stock gaskets and parts etc...(700) wait for money to make manifold and buy gate. (christmas gifts...maybe)
The downside to A is that I still dont have a car running.
The downside to B is that I still cant afford insurance...so track only :-D...and I'm limited to what my bottom end can handle, and if I blow it up Im right back where I started.
the downside to C is that the car STILL isn't running, but it will be stronger than a stock 2.4L, and done sooner than idea B....but wont be as strong or coated as idea B. BUT it will run.
Upside to B...I can built up my "good" engine the right way with the forged custom coated pistons, oliver rods, coated cylinder head..the works. but it will take prolly another two years until I get this done.
I may be able to afford insurance....if my parents decided they wanted to help me out. thats a 50/50....maybe better since I have no mode of transportation down here at college.
what do you guys suggest?
10-19-2004, 09:44 PM
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Re: Help me spend 1800 dollars... (SiKid86)
who said it was sohc? Its a 2.4L DOHC Turbo...same as srt-4 but bett4r. The stock srt-4 internals I have...srt-4 crank, block, rods, and pistons... but that wont sustain a 500 whp beating. And SRT-4's are for people with money...did you miss the whole "broke college student"?
btw...there are a few 10 second sohc's
btw...there are a few 10 second sohc's
10-19-2004, 10:25 PM
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Re: Help me spend 1800 dollars... (Matt_sb2004)
**** the haters. looks like youve got some plans. just buy what you can for now. itll all come with time. my buddy has a 12.2 to 1 compression 420a neon, so ive got love for em.
10-19-2004, 11:06 PM
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Re: Help me spend 1800 dollars... (Matt_sb2004)
well where do you live? like for me it snows so i just save money from october to may and just get stuff then, well i dont drive my car from october to may so it dosent matter to me if it dont run, you see where iam going with this 
and for the haters , its a turbo car so its cool with me 
and for the haters , its a turbo car so its cool with me
10-19-2004, 11:21 PM
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Re: Help me spend 1800 dollars... (B18C1CYA)
I havent driven my car in three years....so I know what its like not to have your car....
In the winter I would drive but, not race. So the winter isn't bad...and i'll get more parts...but how long will this wait go on for? All my friends ask me when Im going to get done....it was a respectable question last year, but Im getting weary of people saying," man you ever going to finish that?"
project cars are great and all, but I think I need to draw the line somewhere and get my car running again. Even if it isn't 500 whp...there is a ladder that needs to be climbed, you dont just take an elevator up to 500whp and say, "tada!" I mean...200 whp should be fine for now...I mean that would haul pretty good butt in a 2000 pound neon. Hell it might even live to see 300 whp.
In the winter I would drive but, not race. So the winter isn't bad...and i'll get more parts...but how long will this wait go on for? All my friends ask me when Im going to get done....it was a respectable question last year, but Im getting weary of people saying," man you ever going to finish that?"
project cars are great and all, but I think I need to draw the line somewhere and get my car running again. Even if it isn't 500 whp...there is a ladder that needs to be climbed, you dont just take an elevator up to 500whp and say, "tada!" I mean...200 whp should be fine for now...I mean that would haul pretty good butt in a 2000 pound neon. Hell it might even live to see 300 whp.
10-20-2004, 04:34 AM
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Re: Help me spend 1800 dollars... (Matt_sb2004)
If this car is your only means of transportation, then just get it up and running and put off the 500whp build until you are financially able to do it. If this isn't your only means of transportation, then just wait and save up ur money and do it right the first time.
I wouldn't buy parts until you have the money to buy all the parts around the same time. I too started to buy parts and it ****** sucks to look at a pile of parts sitting in your room or a long time. It made me rush a little and make a few bad decisions. Patience is Key!
I wouldn't buy parts until you have the money to buy all the parts around the same time. I too started to buy parts and it ****** sucks to look at a pile of parts sitting in your room or a long time. It made me rush a little and make a few bad decisions. Patience is Key!
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10-20-2004, 11:10 AM
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Re: (PrettyLude)
my biggest problem is deciding on rods....
I can get some eagle rods and save myself 600 dollars, or I can get some Billet Steel Oliver rods...hell the aluminum GRP rods are cheaper than the billet steel!
So I guess the question really comes down to ....what rod will hold up to the power im "realistically" going to put to it. I don't imagine I'll ever get over 600 whp....500 on just boost is pushing the envelope pretty hard....and even if I did spray nitrous....I would be right at 600.
So I just don't know if I can trust my motor to eagle rods...I mean they're great rods, but is a 100 hp difference enough insurance that I wont bend them?
I can get some eagle rods and save myself 600 dollars, or I can get some Billet Steel Oliver rods...hell the aluminum GRP rods are cheaper than the billet steel!
So I guess the question really comes down to ....what rod will hold up to the power im "realistically" going to put to it. I don't imagine I'll ever get over 600 whp....500 on just boost is pushing the envelope pretty hard....and even if I did spray nitrous....I would be right at 600.
So I just don't know if I can trust my motor to eagle rods...I mean they're great rods, but is a 100 hp difference enough insurance that I wont bend them?
10-20-2004, 12:37 PM
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Re: (Matt_sb2004)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Matt_sb2004 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my biggest problem is deciding on rods....
I can get some eagle rods and save myself 600 dollars, or I can get some Billet Steel Oliver rods...hell the aluminum GRP rods are cheaper than the billet steel!
So I guess the question really comes down to ....what rod will hold up to the power im "realistically" going to put to it. I don't imagine I'll ever get over 600 whp....500 on just boost is pushing the envelope pretty hard....and even if I did spray nitrous....I would be right at 600.
So I just don't know if I can trust my motor to eagle rods...I mean they're great rods, but is a 100 hp difference enough insurance that I wont bend them?</TD></TR></TABLE>
God, if you are seriously considering running ALUMINUM RODS in a motor for a STREET CAR you need to do a whole heck of a lot more research before you jump into anything. Aluminum's properties of expansion are vastly different from steel, they strech much more than steel does, and the rods must be a good bit larger than a steel rod to make up for their lack of tensile strength, which can cause interference in small crank cases. Aluminum rods have no place in a street motor, unless you plan to tear down your street motor every 3000-5000 miles to check for strech in your connecting rods.
In response to your "I never said i was going to run them dumbass...I said they were cheaper.
READ the WHOLE thread." show me where what you posted says you arn't going to get aluminum rods, because what you said sure makes it sound like you are seriously considering aluminum rods. At any rate, if you want to be a jackass, go **** yourself and have fun with your neon.
Modified by turboEGsedan at 3:36 PM 10/20/2004
I can get some eagle rods and save myself 600 dollars, or I can get some Billet Steel Oliver rods...hell the aluminum GRP rods are cheaper than the billet steel!
So I guess the question really comes down to ....what rod will hold up to the power im "realistically" going to put to it. I don't imagine I'll ever get over 600 whp....500 on just boost is pushing the envelope pretty hard....and even if I did spray nitrous....I would be right at 600.
So I just don't know if I can trust my motor to eagle rods...I mean they're great rods, but is a 100 hp difference enough insurance that I wont bend them?</TD></TR></TABLE>
God, if you are seriously considering running ALUMINUM RODS in a motor for a STREET CAR you need to do a whole heck of a lot more research before you jump into anything. Aluminum's properties of expansion are vastly different from steel, they strech much more than steel does, and the rods must be a good bit larger than a steel rod to make up for their lack of tensile strength, which can cause interference in small crank cases. Aluminum rods have no place in a street motor, unless you plan to tear down your street motor every 3000-5000 miles to check for strech in your connecting rods.
In response to your "I never said i was going to run them dumbass...I said they were cheaper.
READ the WHOLE thread." show me where what you posted says you arn't going to get aluminum rods, because what you said sure makes it sound like you are seriously considering aluminum rods. At any rate, if you want to be a jackass, go **** yourself and have fun with your neon.
Modified by turboEGsedan at 3:36 PM 10/20/2004
10-20-2004, 12:58 PM
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Re: (turboEGsedan)
Damn $1800 is extremely short to get to 500whp but you should be like 1/4 there.
I give respect to the SRT-4 for they kick *** out of the box with little money, more companies should follow them.
Honestly I have not see the Eagle rods bend, but have seen the caps break off due to misshift & stuff.
You will get lots of answer and only your wallet can tell you what you can get.
I give respect to the SRT-4 for they kick *** out of the box with little money, more companies should follow them.
Honestly I have not see the Eagle rods bend, but have seen the caps break off due to misshift & stuff.
You will get lots of answer and only your wallet can tell you what you can get.
10-20-2004, 01:55 PM
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Re: (turboEGsedan)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboEGsedan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
God, if you are seriously considering running ALUMINUM RODS in a motor for a STREET CAR you need to do a whole heck of a lot more research before you jump into anything. Aluminum's properties of expansion are vastly different from steel, they strech much more than steel does, and the rods must be a good bit larger than a steel rod to make up for their lack of tensile strength, which can cause interference in small crank cases. Aluminum rods have no place in a street motor, unless you plan to tear down your street motor every 3000-5000 miles to check for strech in your connecting rods.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I never said i was going to run them dumbass...I said they were cheaper.
READ the WHOLE thread.
Im not doing it all on 1800.... hahahh This is what I already have...
Engine:
2001 2.4L PT block with 5k miles
SRT-4 crank brand new
ARP main studs, bedplate bolts, head studs
Port and polished DOHC head
Upgraded MPP valvetrain
stock dohc cams
Equal length Merge collector turbo manifold
4" downpipe
Custom t3/t04S .63AR/76trim stage5 wheel and .70AR 60trim compressor 4 bolt discharge
40mm TiAL gate
26x10x3 FMIC
DSM bov
aluminum piping that I beaded and painted/cleared
SS oil feed and return lines
custom oil pan with baffles and return quick release
Custom Intake manifold P&P'd 5" cylindicular Plenum with velocity stacks!!! pimp
65mm Mustang TB
UR Race underdrive pulley
Solid motor mounts
2.4L CNC mount adapter
SRT-4 timing system, oiling system, and water pump.
MSD wires, and coil pack
No PS, AC, CC, nothin...
Fuel system:
Walbro fuel pump 255lph
black push lock fuel line
fuel rail
42# injectors
SX 1:1 FPR
all the fittings I need...
EMS: SDS EFI EM4F http://www.sdsefi.com
3 Bar map sensor the works
Transmission
3.55 5 speed tranny
PG LSD
Spec V clutch
Diff pin retainers
wheels/slicks
14" R/Twheels with falken azenis
25x8.7x13 slicks
Suspension
KW coilovers
Interior/gauges/etc
Momo Seats
CF autometer guages (boost, oil pressure, mini tach, speedo, EGT)
Simpson 5pt harnesses
11pt roll cage(dont want to die now..)
Tuning stuff...
LM-1 wideband
So...what I need to do is buy rods, pistons, rings....pay for machining costs, and my gaskets and OEM parts...and put it together. I can't decide if I want to go with the Oliver Billet steel rods or Eagle. Its more of a reliability question. which one will take what I will actually give it? Prolly around 400whp on the street...and 500 on the track....max eagles are starting to looks more and more like what I actually need.
God, if you are seriously considering running ALUMINUM RODS in a motor for a STREET CAR you need to do a whole heck of a lot more research before you jump into anything. Aluminum's properties of expansion are vastly different from steel, they strech much more than steel does, and the rods must be a good bit larger than a steel rod to make up for their lack of tensile strength, which can cause interference in small crank cases. Aluminum rods have no place in a street motor, unless you plan to tear down your street motor every 3000-5000 miles to check for strech in your connecting rods.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I never said i was going to run them dumbass...I said they were cheaper.
READ the WHOLE thread.
Im not doing it all on 1800.... hahahh This is what I already have...
Engine:
2001 2.4L PT block with 5k miles
SRT-4 crank brand new
ARP main studs, bedplate bolts, head studs
Port and polished DOHC head
Upgraded MPP valvetrain
stock dohc cams
Equal length Merge collector turbo manifold
4" downpipe
Custom t3/t04S .63AR/76trim stage5 wheel and .70AR 60trim compressor 4 bolt discharge
40mm TiAL gate
26x10x3 FMIC
DSM bov
aluminum piping that I beaded and painted/cleared
SS oil feed and return lines
custom oil pan with baffles and return quick release
Custom Intake manifold P&P'd 5" cylindicular Plenum with velocity stacks!!! pimp
65mm Mustang TB
UR Race underdrive pulley
Solid motor mounts
2.4L CNC mount adapter
SRT-4 timing system, oiling system, and water pump.
MSD wires, and coil pack
No PS, AC, CC, nothin...
Fuel system:
Walbro fuel pump 255lph
black push lock fuel line
fuel rail
42# injectors
SX 1:1 FPR
all the fittings I need...
EMS: SDS EFI EM4F http://www.sdsefi.com
3 Bar map sensor the works
Transmission
3.55 5 speed tranny
PG LSD
Spec V clutch
Diff pin retainers
wheels/slicks
14" R/Twheels with falken azenis
25x8.7x13 slicks
Suspension
KW coilovers
Interior/gauges/etc
Momo Seats
CF autometer guages (boost, oil pressure, mini tach, speedo, EGT)
Simpson 5pt harnesses
11pt roll cage(dont want to die now..)
Tuning stuff...
LM-1 wideband
So...what I need to do is buy rods, pistons, rings....pay for machining costs, and my gaskets and OEM parts...and put it together. I can't decide if I want to go with the Oliver Billet steel rods or Eagle. Its more of a reliability question. which one will take what I will actually give it? Prolly around 400whp on the street...and 500 on the track....max eagles are starting to looks more and more like what I actually need.
I also have a turbo neon. mad props on what you are doing!
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