viskii420

I'm trying to install electric oil pressure sender but after few articles I'm confused what is the most reliable way of installing the setup.The build is simple td16.
So far i have two blue prints.

a.Run it Directly from the block.


OR

b.Extend the oil line to the steering column frame.


Since the car is going to be DD I'm trying to avoid of running into oil leaks or let alone brake the threads.

Any suggestions?

DaveF

choice #2 is obviously the smart choice. you dont want all the weight of them T's hanging off the back of the block.

viskii420

I was going for it but on my build thread someone mention that the sender would read inaccurate pressure and pressure would drop.

^^^ Any opinions on this factors?
Mounting the extra line and oil manifold on steering column would it drop the oil pressure?


here is the choice #1 on the block



Modified by viskii420 at 7:31 AM 8/24/2008

viskii420

bump

SPOOLINmatt

all that brass could break off at the block, that stuff is soft as hell

I just did this the other day. I run a greddy sandwich plate and have my turbo feed and lsvtec feed coming off the plate. Then I took a STEEL 1/8m to 1/8m and threaded that into the block where the factory sender goes, used a 1/8fm tee like you have pictured to extend the gauge sender out from the block(they won't break), plugged off the side hole so i didn't even screw in the oil pressure factory unit, its not needed anyways.

Rickdrizzle

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by viskii420 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was going for it but on my build thread someone mention that the sender would read inaccurate pressure and pressure would drop.

^^^ Any opinions on this factors?
Mounting the extra line and oil manifold on steering column would it drop the oil pressure?


here is the choice #1 on the block



Modified by viskii420 at 7:31 AM 8/24/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

Take a picture of choice #2.

Turbocivic94

I had copper fitting break once in a block and it was pain in the ***. I had to take the engine out to get it removed. Try getting a sandwich or use #2.

viskii420

my concern for #2 is inaccurate gauge reading and pressure drop. I haven't tested yet but u think I'll have issues w. it?

Tippyman

Mine is setup similar to number two.

I have a line coming from the block going to the firewall, and all my **** is mounted on the firewall. It works great and I couldn't be happier.

DaveF

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by viskii420 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my concern for #2 is inaccurate gauge reading and pressure drop. I haven't tested yet but u think I'll have issues w. it?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

how ? the pressure is pretty "constant".. do you loose oil pressure when installing a turbo ? or how about a vtec head on a non vtec block ?... i doubt it. you are not going to have any problems.

viskii420

i haven't mounted yet. The engine is still on the stand. I wanted some opinions before i drop it in.
I'm using d16y8 block with toga oil pump and d16z6 head.

nonvtecallmotor

I mounted my sender with a brass tee ONCE and it broke off.......

itr537

http://www.theoldone.com/articles/oilpressure check this out might help u

viskii420

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr537 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.theoldone.com/articles/oilpressure check this out might help u</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have read that article but they don't run oil feed to the turbo from the fittings.

accord_raffi

sorry i didn't read all the posts so idk if someone mentioned this, but why not just use a sandwich adapter? ppl usually tee off the feed from there but i do not see why you couldn't use that for oil pressure also.

viskii420

^^^ the oil sandwich would do the job. But since i have the material for different setup i wanted to know if i would have issues.

accord_raffi

well i personally wouldn't trust that much weight on the brass fittings. It's not much, but enough for a piece of soft brass

shortyz21

your an idiot if u run that setup just because u think ur oil pressure gauge might read 1psi off.

that will break off, **** oil everywhere, ruin your turbo and ruin your engine.


is that 1psi diff worth it?

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

Feed the turbo from the stock oil pressure gauge port. Most of the time you can just thread a 1/8" NPT to -3AN or -4AN directly into the block without a 1/8" BSPT to 1/8" NPT adapter. Make sure you use a high-temp sealent like Hondabond HT, and do not overtighten.

Then buy a $50 sandwich and feed both the oil pressure gauges off of the plate.

Don't try to feed the turbo with a sandwich plate unless it's a Golden Eagle plate that supplies filtered oil to the ports.

SOHC_MShue

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by viskii420 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my concern for #2 is inaccurate gauge reading and pressure drop. I haven't tested yet but u think I'll have issues w. it?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I work for a company that runs tests on engines for lubricants and fuels that require high accuracy and precision. Even we run our engine oil pressure transducers mounted remotely away from the engine. I dont think pressure drop should be a concern with setup number 2.

viskii420

Thanks for all you input guys. I'll end up using method number #2.
I'll keep you updated with the setup overtime. As of now i got few shots before the engine is dropped in.







Cheers,
Vick

HiProfile

I prefer hardlines:



BTW that 1/4" copper line has been replaced with 3/8" plated copper, and now I just use a 1/4" brass TEE in which I added a hole tapped for the 1/8" BSPT stock sender. FYI 95% of the adapter fittings for BSPT to NPT have a hole around 1/8", while I've bored mine out as far as I could, nearly 1/4".

Even with the restricted unbored fittings/.25" line (6" long), I saw the same pressure VS having the oil gauge hooked right to the block w/o anything else. I would imagine your line, if it is -3an like I think, will indeed restrict flow.

oranginal

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by viskii420 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for all you input guys. I'll end up using method number #2.
I'll keep you updated with the setup overtime. As of now i got few shots before the engine is dropped in.

Cheers,
Vick </TD></TR></TABLE>

Why not just use a T instead of the little oil manifold thing? I would run the turbo oil line from the block and the stock oil sender unit and aftermarket sender unit off of a T instead of that little manifold.

Or run everything off of the manifold

pgpbubble

why do people even use the stock oil pressure sender? I never have since like 4 years ago, It comes on around ~4PSI and is basically only a, "Hey look your screwed" light.

viskii420

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oranginal &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why not just use a T instead of the little oil manifold thing? I would run the turbo oil line from the block and the stock oil sender unit and aftermarket sender unit off of a T instead of that little manifold.

Or run everything off of the manifold</TD></TR></TABLE>

if i run aftermarket and stock sender of T wouldn't it clog overtime?