G"UNIT

What Exhaust manifold studs are you guys running. Mine is studed from the factory. I have a Full-Race top mount manifold. I was driving down the road tonight and one of the studs and nutts broke off while i was driving. This is the second 1. I was going to change the first one this weekend and now another one broke. I want to see if any of you are having this problem. Should I keep it studed or go with bolts? This is the top row of studs. I had to shave the lip on the nutts down so it would tighten all the way down. The lip was hitting the manifold welds. Are any of you having that problem as well. I know ARP makes a stud kit. But i dont won't those to break...... Let me know... I did a search on this topic.. There was some thread, but nothing really. This is 2 studs in 2 weeks that have broken..lol

B18C1CYA

If it is hitting the weld I would use allen head bolts on it , the heads are smaller cus they dont have the flange on them like the stock nuts , use them and you should be ok

G"UNIT

How big of a allen head bolt? how much bigger should they be then the whole on the flange?

Joseph Davis

When was the last time you torqued them down, evenly across the board?

Synapse

Sounds like the grade of material is failing. Studs are going to be the best because you double your thread count. A bolt is more likely to break at the head, especially if the material is not up to snuff.

I don't know of a specific mfg for it, but you need to get some high nickel stainless steel studs and nuts. The nickel is what stays strong under high temp.

V-SPEC 1

Did you over torque them?

PrecisionH23a

You better have that **** fixed before you bring it to me to tune

It sounds to me like you are overtorquing them or not torquing them in proper sequence. Or like mentioned before... the bolt may be hitting the weld.

Pro-Am 1934

I have a Full-Race top mount, and when I put it on this year I went ahead and replaced my studs that I had last season (Full-Race ram horn) with factory Honda studs. They are fairly cheap, and as long as you tighten/torque them in order you should not have a problem.

Jason

G"UNIT

What do u guys torque them to? and what sequence are you tighten them to?

V-SPEC 1

Look it up in your Helms manual. 23 ft. lbs. torque and you start from inside stud/bolt to outside.

I_HATE_JDM

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C1CYA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it is hitting the weld I would use allen head bolts on it , the heads are smaller cus they dont have the flange on them like the stock nuts , use them and you should be ok </TD></TR></TABLE>thats not really the best idea. the whole theory in studs is to draw the mani to the head. when using a bolt you are trying to push the mani to the head,not pull. I know you wouldnt think it makes much diff between the two but it does. I guess in a manifolds case it may not matter much but in bigger applications it does matter.

I_HATE_JDM

also comptech makes some nice manifold studs!