help choosing strong motor for turbo
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help choosing strong motor for turbo
im doing a h series or f series swap into my ek hatch and i want to know which motor can take the most boost and last the longest while boosting with stock internals f22 f23 h22 h23 ?????? what to buy ???? thanx ahead of time guys
#3
Re: (infamous_hatch)
F series engine would be good for you. They are cheap and plenty. I used to have a 94 Accord Lx, the engine in there is 8.8:1 CR, so it's good for turbo too. But if you want high performance then go with the H22.
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Re: help choosing strong motor for turbo (infamous_hatch)
it's not so much the motor as it is the tune...make sure you have full engine management tuned properly
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What about the b18b? those motors love boost! I know i know, you asked about the F and H series, I am just not too keen on those motors. The b18b would be the only other motor i would boost outside of the b18c1. But that is all personal preference! sorry if i was no help
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Re: help choosing strong motor for turbo (infamous_hatch)
I have one friend that has a H22 in a hatchy on 3.5psi and SFP told him he couldn't go over 6 or 7 on stock internals. Then I have another friend with a prelude on 12psi and all he did was change is headgasket. So, I don't know what to tell you.
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#8
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well my choices right now are jdm h22a with a closed deck and h23 and single cam vtec f series wtf should i do i want high performance and durability i will be running hondata or a vafc hack
#9
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if you run fuel management go hondata you'll be glad you did.also i think the 2.3 sohc comes out of a 98+ accord,and is torky as **** with that stroke,but r/r isn't that good.
i have a fully built stroked h22"2.4 liters" turbo charged with a direct port pro race fogger system on it,turbo is xs t66 and the i/c is a trust 4x12x36.the swap will be going in this week,and i will post pics or have some one do it for me.
but you should be fine at 7 psi with no problems.all higher compression does is limit you on pump gas.plus the higher compression helps spool the turbo quicker.
BUT MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THAT FUEL RIGHT.
also i did all the work my self,except the machine work i am not set up for that.
i have a fully built stroked h22"2.4 liters" turbo charged with a direct port pro race fogger system on it,turbo is xs t66 and the i/c is a trust 4x12x36.the swap will be going in this week,and i will post pics or have some one do it for me.
but you should be fine at 7 psi with no problems.all higher compression does is limit you on pump gas.plus the higher compression helps spool the turbo quicker.
BUT MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THAT FUEL RIGHT.
also i did all the work my self,except the machine work i am not set up for that.
#11
from what i hear...the ringlands on the h and f series are the weakest points....i would have to agree with the b-series swap...they DO love boost... and its practically a direct swap and you can pick them up for cheaper than the H-series, im really not sure about the F-series...
B18a/b = 9.2:1 compression(stock) you could easily run 8psi through this motor with no internals...make sure that you consider fuel and ignition when doing this....
i guess i am curious why you want the h or f motors.....
B18a/b = 9.2:1 compression(stock) you could easily run 8psi through this motor with no internals...make sure that you consider fuel and ignition when doing this....
i guess i am curious why you want the h or f motors.....
#12
Re: help choosing strong motor for turbo (infamous_hatch)
Ring lands on stock h22 are the weakest point. It's a gamble but I wouldnt opt for any of those motors, I would go with a b-series motor.
Since the H22 ring lands on the pistons are weakest point, so you say why not just go with aftermarket pistons? Well you can't unless you resleeve the block with iron doctile sleeves. Stock h22 sleeves are made of Nickel something and can't be used with aftermarket pistons.
Since the H22 ring lands on the pistons are weakest point, so you say why not just go with aftermarket pistons? Well you can't unless you resleeve the block with iron doctile sleeves. Stock h22 sleeves are made of Nickel something and can't be used with aftermarket pistons.
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Re: (RedTegLS)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RedTegLS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I heard something about the H22 piston walls being rather thin for boost. Can I ask why you want an H or F? Is it just for the torque factor?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes this cylinder wall in the H22's are thin. u will probably need to sleeve them first.
yes this cylinder wall in the H22's are thin. u will probably need to sleeve them first.
#15
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tq is what wins the race,the h22 has a better
r/r than the gsr and a ton of more tq to.
now about the boost thing and the walls being thin and all that crap.7 psi a h22 will handle that **** all day long,just make sure the fuel is right.the newer model h22's and the early 2.3's have a special lineing,that require sleeves to be used if you are running after market pistons.now on the early h22's,you did not have to change the sleeves,if you wanted to run and after market piston,because they were steel and will hold up to fairly high levels of boost,when turboing a stock motor,the piston is the weakest link.but if you have the tuning right,they can with stand alot,but the first time the devil shows his face,guess who's gonna pay the price.
r/r than the gsr and a ton of more tq to.
now about the boost thing and the walls being thin and all that crap.7 psi a h22 will handle that **** all day long,just make sure the fuel is right.the newer model h22's and the early 2.3's have a special lineing,that require sleeves to be used if you are running after market pistons.now on the early h22's,you did not have to change the sleeves,if you wanted to run and after market piston,because they were steel and will hold up to fairly high levels of boost,when turboing a stock motor,the piston is the weakest link.but if you have the tuning right,they can with stand alot,but the first time the devil shows his face,guess who's gonna pay the price.
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