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HELP!! car wont start, just installed built d16 turbo

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Old 08-16-2003, 11:33 AM
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Default HELP!! car wont start, just installed built d16 turbo

After about 2 months now, i have my motor complete. D16z6: srp pistons, eagle rods, je rings, race eng blockguard, arp head studs, p&p Y8 head, all new seals, gaskets, fluids etc... We finished the motor install about an hour ago. About a 4-5 hour job on the ground at my house. I had a friend who is a honda technician help out. Basically the car will not start at all. I have fuel pressure, spark and the timing is perfect. We tried moving the distributor back and forth to see if that was the problem and still nothing. Anyone with any experience with this could you help me out? btw.. id did start up the first time i tried after giving it lots of gas but when i let off it died and hasn't started back up since.
Old 08-16-2003, 11:47 AM
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Make sure your TPS and MAP sensor plugs aren't switched.
Old 08-16-2003, 11:59 AM
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Default Re: (inspyral)

hey, i used to talked to u a long time ago back on honda-acura.net as 93sedanEX. I'm on my third civic now. Luckily i got out of that ricer faze I was in back then. Anywayz so the TPS and the MAP plugs are interchangeable? How do i know which one should go on which sensor?
Old 08-16-2003, 12:07 PM
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ok, the sensors are hooked up correctly. I tried starting it again and it started up after giving it some gas but it doesn't want to stay running, it died after about 10 seconds with my foot on the gas and some smoke came out the exhaust.
Old 08-16-2003, 12:09 PM
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It sounds like the valves need to be adjusted when it was running. Could that be the reason why it doesn't want to stay running?
Old 08-16-2003, 12:39 PM
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I had a similar problem, car would start for 10 seconds then die. I changed the spark plugs and it fired right up
Old 08-16-2003, 12:59 PM
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Default Re: (Pfieffdog)

Everything is brand new spark plugs, wires, timing belt, water pump, all the seal gaskets..etc... I tried starting it again and it ran at like 300rpms, valves tapping, and cel came on, still running though but it sounded so bad i cut it off. Cel Code 3.
Old 08-16-2003, 01:22 PM
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Default Re: (pip9)

do a valve adjustment man. anytime headwork is done and valves are removed from the head you definitely need to check clearances.
Old 08-16-2003, 02:12 PM
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Default Re: (Willis)

i know, I just forgot in all the chaos we had to go through to get everything done. My friend is going to adjust the valves next week sometime so I guess after that's done i'll try to get my car running again. a code 3 is a map sensor code i think. I guess i'm going to need to get another one of them before then too
Old 08-16-2003, 05:40 PM
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You might want to try doing a valve adjustment on your own. It's not that hard. The basic process is outlined here:

http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...t.php

It's for a B18C, but the principals are the same. You won't need any special tools like you would for a B series head though. A 10mm box-end wrench, flathead screwdriver, and some feeler gauges are all it takes. Also, you slide the feeler gauge between the end of the rockers and the valvestem, as opposed to sliding it between the cam lobe and the rocker on a B head.
Old 08-17-2003, 11:46 AM
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Default Re: (inspyral)

I used to work on cars at a honda dealership so i know the basic idea. I just dont have any feeler guages. The honda tech that helped me out yesterday with the engine install is coming back next week to help me with the valve adjustment. Thanks for the link though.
Old 08-17-2003, 04:40 PM
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Alright well i adjusted the valves to .006 intake .007 exhaust and now it sounds almost normal when its running. I am still getting a code 3 cel. I took the map sensor from my brothers civic and it still threw a code, this is with the missing link on and my safc disconnected. I tried a bunch of combinations of map sensors with the missing link on and off and safc connected and diconnected. If i leave the safc connected and missing link off with my brothers map sensor it doesnt throw a code. With it running like this it will idle fine but then when i rev it up and let off, the rpms drop it almost stalls then idles again. Is this just a tuning thing? I have 310cc injectors, safc, fmu, walbro fuel pump. I had my car tuned with the safc before this motor rebuild (everything i changed is in the first post). Could the p&p head be causing this? If so how could i fix it? I appreciate any help u guys could give me. btw...my car blows alittle bit of white/gray smoke out the exhaust when u let off the throttle.
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