00trdtaco

ok i have a b16a turbo in an eg. the motor is freshly built, everything except sleeves. just tuned at church recently. i have not had a problem with this except on hot days riding on the freeway or speratic boosting on hot days. i do not have any type of water temp gauge or anything. i just see my temp gauge slightly rising, so i throw on the heat full blast and it lowers back to normal and is ok. as long as i have the heat on.

not sure what type radiator or fan i have. 70/30 mix with water wetter. fan on all the time. new 170 degree thermostat. im really scared that she will overheat so when im driving in hot weather im always watching the temp guage. i would love the piece of mind that it isn't going to slowly creep up and me not notice and destroy my motor i spent so much on.

please help.









maybe this is the problem...thank you in advance.

EGhatch87

is your fan hooked up so that is blows toward the engine and not the rad.

90civichbsi

iTrader: (1)

I know from experience, its more than likely that fan. Looks like the Ebay one I had that barely flows 700cfm. I had a custom fan shroud and it would still want to overheat on the freeway on even 80 degree days.

This is my new setup: 13" spal (1750cfm) and a custom sheet aluminuim shroud I made. I have no problems.

I would also recommend making a divider beside the radiator to make sure its not just sucking in the hot air from the turbo area

quik sol

could be a few things, a plugged coolant galary, a lightly sticking thermostat, a clogged radiator, bad coolant

dephtone

Also make sure you don't have air bubbles in the system. Crack open the bleeder beside the head and let the car run to make sure you have all your air bubbles out.

HarfordCTR

where is the bleeder you are talking about?

00trdtaco

the fan is drawing air through the radiator so i know thats not it. coolant is fresh, new thermo, radiator is new also. do all radiators work the same, or could this be a crappy radiator that just doesn't preform as well as others. i am also curious where this bleeder is.

ill probably be getting a new fan and see what happens.

and will the spal fan hook right up without any mods to wireing or anything. thank you for the info.

dpetro1

you need to log temps or get a good gauge. in my experience the oem gauge doesnt move until temps are >215F, way too hot. if you are sure everything is up to par with the cooling system then you need to look to the fan setup or getting more air to the radiator. from your pic it looks like the fmic doesnt take up too much space but still it blocks the airflow to the radiator. pull the bumper off and see if the problem goes away. if not then mostlikely you have other problems. if that fixes it then look into a better fan.

two good threads on overheating
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/overheating-vented-hoods-overheating-vented-hoods%3Dreal-results-2370133/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/spal-13%22-fan-2371027/

marcusw

The 170* thermostat is the problem. I just put in a new cooler thermostat. I replaced the 190* with a 160* racing one and the coolant doesn't stay in the radiator long enough to cool down before the thermostat opens up and pumps more hot coolant in. The hotter thermostat allows the coolant to get cooled down prior to returning to the engine. I just changed it an hour ago and am not looking forward to going back out in the morning to put the OEM back in.

The only way around this is to get a full size aftermarket radiator and hope it is large enough to pass sufficient air to cool the coolant down prior to the 170* thermostat opening up and dumping more hot water into the radiator. Sucks!

TimKennard

i had this same problem. i have the same radiator you have and used to have a similar fan. i replaced the fan with a 13" spal and now i'm good. i did not do a shroud, but will soon. the spal fan kicks major butt!