Help against heatsoak / high intake temps at the track
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Help against heatsoak / high intake temps at the track
I'm reading off of a moates hondalog usb cable to laptop and my temps are reading 150-160 when waiting to run.....and the coolest the temp gets is around 130 degrees. Ambient temp is 75-80 degrees.
Setup is a stock motor ls / sc34 (17psi) / precision 600hp intercooler / hondata intake manifold gasket. There is no fitv coolant line....only coolant line is to the iacv.
The charge piping in the engine bay is pretty hot....intake manifold very hot. Cold side piping before the engine bay feels quite a bit cooler than in the engine bay.
Has anyone had much success lowering the intake temp? I will probably buy a hood so I can vent the engine bay....and the intake is routed to "fresh" air in front of the driver wheel. I reckon I will also try some heat wrap and check my temps afterwards.
Setup is a stock motor ls / sc34 (17psi) / precision 600hp intercooler / hondata intake manifold gasket. There is no fitv coolant line....only coolant line is to the iacv.
The charge piping in the engine bay is pretty hot....intake manifold very hot. Cold side piping before the engine bay feels quite a bit cooler than in the engine bay.
Has anyone had much success lowering the intake temp? I will probably buy a hood so I can vent the engine bay....and the intake is routed to "fresh" air in front of the driver wheel. I reckon I will also try some heat wrap and check my temps afterwards.
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Re: (tony413)
That would be correct.
160 while waiting in line, and dropping to around 130 while running.
Now, if I am just driving around before getting into boost it is usually 20-30 degrees above ambient....which is fine with me.
160 while waiting in line, and dropping to around 130 while running.
Now, if I am just driving around before getting into boost it is usually 20-30 degrees above ambient....which is fine with me.
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check the following
1. plugs how many ranges colder than stock are running ?
2. check stat
3. check for leaks in cooling system
if your driving you wont notice the leak cause its under pressure, also your moving air pass the radiator making it do its job. also you might just be out of efficency not likely but possible
1. plugs how many ranges colder than stock are running ?
2. check stat
3. check for leaks in cooling system
if your driving you wont notice the leak cause its under pressure, also your moving air pass the radiator making it do its job. also you might just be out of efficency not likely but possible
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Re: (tony413)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony413 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check the following
1. plugs how many ranges colder than stock are running ?
2. check stat
3. check for leaks in cooling system
if your driving you wont notice the leak cause its under pressure, also your moving air pass the radiator making it do its job. also you might just be out of efficency not likely but possible </TD></TR></TABLE>
running ngk 7s
cooling system is fine......with the car running it stays in the mid 190s.
I am having high intake temps.......not coolant temps. And I do not have any leaks.
1. plugs how many ranges colder than stock are running ?
2. check stat
3. check for leaks in cooling system
if your driving you wont notice the leak cause its under pressure, also your moving air pass the radiator making it do its job. also you might just be out of efficency not likely but possible </TD></TR></TABLE>
running ngk 7s
cooling system is fine......with the car running it stays in the mid 190s.
I am having high intake temps.......not coolant temps. And I do not have any leaks.
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Re: Help against heatsoak / high intake temps at the track (5thgen)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 5thgen »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The charge piping in the engine bay is pretty hot....intake manifold very hot. </TD></TR></TABLE>
If the ambient temp in the engine bay is getting too high, take a look at what might be throwing off radiant heat and either shield it, coat it or wrap it.
Its hard to say without seeing your set-up but also check to see if the air moving back through the bay (from the radiator fan) is passing over something that is driving the temp up.
The charge piping in the engine bay is pretty hot....intake manifold very hot. </TD></TR></TABLE>
If the ambient temp in the engine bay is getting too high, take a look at what might be throwing off radiant heat and either shield it, coat it or wrap it.
Its hard to say without seeing your set-up but also check to see if the air moving back through the bay (from the radiator fan) is passing over something that is driving the temp up.
#7
Re: Help against heatsoak / high intake temps at the track (Top Ramen)
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Re: Help against heatsoak / high intake temps at the track (White Smoke)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White Smoke »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What kind of exhaust manifold are you running?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It is a t3 inline pro, with the compressor mounted towards the driver side.
It is a t3 inline pro, with the compressor mounted towards the driver side.
#10
Man U FTW
CO2 fogger on the IC, bigger IC, ceramic coating, etc....
People have also seen a drastic drop in IATs from the AIR intake manifold, but that might be a little out of your price range and if its not, good luck finding one
People have also seen a drastic drop in IATs from the AIR intake manifold, but that might be a little out of your price range and if its not, good luck finding one
#11
Re:
I would say heat wrapping or thermal coat the manifold, exhaust housing, and downpipe should help. Also maybe try a hood kick if you have not already (forgot if you had done that when I saw your car last).
What sucks is it is we have yet to get into the real summer heat out here (and at gateway) this year, so it is only going to get worse as the temps get hotter outside.
What fan or fans are you running? Do you have a manual fan switch so you can keep it running?
What sucks is it is we have yet to get into the real summer heat out here (and at gateway) this year, so it is only going to get worse as the temps get hotter outside.
What fan or fans are you running? Do you have a manual fan switch so you can keep it running?
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Re: (Schister66)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schister66 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">CO2 fogger on the IC, bigger IC, ceramic coating, etc....
People have also seen a drastic drop in IATs from the AIR intake manifold, but that might be a little out of your price range and if its not, good luck finding one</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah I would like to get a manifold like that.....skunk2 may make a composite for an ls, but it will probably be a while.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by twkdCD595 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would say heat wrapping or thermal coat the manifold, exhaust housing, and downpipe should help. Also maybe try a hood kick if you have not already (forgot if you had done that when I saw your car last).
What sucks is it is we have yet to get into the real summer heat out here (and at gateway) this year, so it is only going to get worse as the temps get hotter outside.
What fan or fans are you running? Do you have a manual fan switch so you can keep it running?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, I know....its only about 80 degrees right now. I may wrap the manifold if its not a huge pain to do so......but downpipe is going to get wrapped for sure. I don't have a switch on my radiator fan (stock fan)....for now my coolant temps are fine. It may help though, so I may use one anyway.
Modified by 5thgen at 10:58 AM 5/9/2007
People have also seen a drastic drop in IATs from the AIR intake manifold, but that might be a little out of your price range and if its not, good luck finding one</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah I would like to get a manifold like that.....skunk2 may make a composite for an ls, but it will probably be a while.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by twkdCD595 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would say heat wrapping or thermal coat the manifold, exhaust housing, and downpipe should help. Also maybe try a hood kick if you have not already (forgot if you had done that when I saw your car last).
What sucks is it is we have yet to get into the real summer heat out here (and at gateway) this year, so it is only going to get worse as the temps get hotter outside.
What fan or fans are you running? Do you have a manual fan switch so you can keep it running?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, I know....its only about 80 degrees right now. I may wrap the manifold if its not a huge pain to do so......but downpipe is going to get wrapped for sure. I don't have a switch on my radiator fan (stock fan)....for now my coolant temps are fine. It may help though, so I may use one anyway.
Modified by 5thgen at 10:58 AM 5/9/2007
#13
Re: (5thgen)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 5thgen »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yeah, I know....its only about 80 degrees right now. I may wrap the manifold if its not a huge pain to do so......but downpipe is going to get wrapped for sure. I don't have a switch on my radiator fan (stock fan)....for now my coolant temps are fine. It may help though, so I may use one anyway.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Coating will probably be alot easier than heat wraping that manifold but then you have the short downtime to deal with. If you need heatwrap locally, I know bier brothers stocks the wrap and high temp paint (I got some heat wrap there for my DP)... dont know how their pricing stacks up agianst online (+shipping) but I thought it was about the same.
Yeah I was just thinking about the fan for when sitting in staging... you can keep it on to help keep the air moving and it is very cheaply done. You can wire a rocker switch (interupting ground) to the fan switch sensor on the thermo housing to be able to turn on the fans manually. It may help a little. I know it does on mine but I have 2 slim pusher fans in front of the radiator (directly behind the intercooler, well most of the center of it )... so it pulls quite a bit of air through.
Yeah, I know....its only about 80 degrees right now. I may wrap the manifold if its not a huge pain to do so......but downpipe is going to get wrapped for sure. I don't have a switch on my radiator fan (stock fan)....for now my coolant temps are fine. It may help though, so I may use one anyway.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Coating will probably be alot easier than heat wraping that manifold but then you have the short downtime to deal with. If you need heatwrap locally, I know bier brothers stocks the wrap and high temp paint (I got some heat wrap there for my DP)... dont know how their pricing stacks up agianst online (+shipping) but I thought it was about the same.
Yeah I was just thinking about the fan for when sitting in staging... you can keep it on to help keep the air moving and it is very cheaply done. You can wire a rocker switch (interupting ground) to the fan switch sensor on the thermo housing to be able to turn on the fans manually. It may help a little. I know it does on mine but I have 2 slim pusher fans in front of the radiator (directly behind the intercooler, well most of the center of it )... so it pulls quite a bit of air through.
#14
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Re: (5thgen)
You can't wrap that manifold really. Def do the Dp and looking into coatings for the turbine and the very least on invest in a good turbo blanket. It's hard to cool the stuff off when you are just sitting still.
A bypass fan switch, fan controller, or lower temp fan switch will help allot when sitting still at the track.
A bypass fan switch, fan controller, or lower temp fan switch will help allot when sitting still at the track.
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