CTR_B

iTrader: (1)

Can "headlift" still occur when using ARP's torqued to the correct specs?

d16y8, Turbonetics AR.63 @ 10psi, ARP @70Ft-lbs, OE HG


I ask this because it seems I keep popping HG due to "headlift", Or if there is another explanation for BOILING coolant being pushed out the radiator and into the overflow bottle AND then even in some cases pushed out the over flow bottle onto the ground.

SD_Lurker

iTrader: (4)

With the proper TQ spec and only 10 PSI, I'd say its highly unlikely your lifting the head.. Has the car previously overheated? If you're constantly going through gaskets I'd lean towards a warped head/block.. I'm almost certain the head isn't lifting if the headstuds are installed properly..

kyden

are you tuned? the y series motors don't like a lot of timing.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

this

90blackcrx

Sounds more like the head is warped, time to get the flat edge out.

CTR_B

iTrader: (1)

I've gone through three HG. After each time the head was sent out to a local machine shop for inspection and "truing" or milling.

The car has never over heated during this, It just pushes the coolant out of the radiator and into the over flow bottle And if the bottle fills up the coolant then gushes from the bottle and all over the car/ground.

Yes, Only on Crome but I am tuned.


I just cant seem to figure out how this is happening.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

what temp is the coolant at?
Are you using 50/50 coolant?
OE or aftermarket radiator?

what fan?

90blackcrx

I'd say check it yourself, I've seen machine shops screw stuff up before, I'd also check your block.

Or you're not torquing it down correctly, or install the gasket correctly. It really could only be a few things.

CTR_B

iTrader: (1)

Im not sure the actual temp, BUT last night at the track the coolant in the overflow was BOILING.. Though my temp gauge never went about half way.

Yes 50/50(ish)

OE but NEW radiator

OE Fan



The blocks I get usually have less then 80k mi and come from Autos

I torque it according to Haynes with ARP specs

The gasket states "UP" with an arrow.. kinda hard to screw up.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

ok, theres your issue:

OE radiators cannot cool the extra heat a turbo makes. The OE fan cannot pull enough air to keep it cool..

Id get a dual core or triple core radiator and a good pulling fan.

I have a mishimoto 1/2 rad with a Maradyne 13" fan that pulls 1300 cfm+...

On hot days in miami, my temp doesnt go over 195.

Xenocron.com has the fan, of course u can source a rad yourself.
http://www.xenocron.com/maradyne-13-...74e4e5dfd4cb06

** Beware!! Alot of slim fans (including mishimotos) do not pull enough air. they are rated at 9xx cfm and youll need higher then that.

tony413

ummmm excuse me but WTF is that????

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

Y meaning Y8's im sure

should be D, but these kids nowadays...lol these are the same ones that call an EJ8 an EK coupe.

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

Check the radiator cap, its purpose is to raise coolant boiling temp.

CTR_B

iTrader: (1)

please explain

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

+1

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...nfo/index.html

Explained.

boostedeg302

What condition is the thermostat in? Also make sure the temp sensor isnt bad.

boostedeg302

Oem radiator and fan combo worked fine for my previous turbo setups. Never had a problem and plenty of friends had similar results as me.

CTR_B

iTrader: (1)

plenty of people I know are still running there OE fan/radiator combo as well, With no issues.

My T-stat is fairly new and if the temp sensor was bad it would throw a cel.


Note: I forgot to mention this is my beginning post but my fan is "hot-wired" to always be on. So the fact of it never coming on is impossible.

kyden

i said y, as in d16y5,7,8. the z6 isn't nearly as bad about timing, hence why i said y.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

well, considering that most builds have aftermarket radiators when they go boost, Mine was ruuning hot, and the only way i know to cool down the engine is to upgrade the cooling system.

Maybe your OE rad/fan combo works for you, but all im saying is if its running hot, get a better rad/fan combo. unless you guys know other ways of getting the coolant temps down.

CTR_B

iTrader: (1)

I never said mycar was running hot. I just said my coolant is being pushed out of my radiator. This happens in FI when head lift occurs and air from the turbo is forced into the cooling system via water jackets in the head and block

maddog20

This is your problem.

maddog20

do you have the abilty to post a screen shot of the timing values of the low and high cam?

CTR_B

iTrader: (1)

You mean cam timing or ignition timing?

Are you asking for a data log from the ecu?