T25 civic

I'm having some trouble with my turbo blowing oil seals and I'm thinking its because my manifold I have sits the turbo to low so it doesn't drain right. It sits the turbo so after a 90* elbow out the drain side, it goes level to the oil pan flange which is slighty at an incline. Could this be the cause of my oil seals going bad, or could it be something else? I'm attaching a picture I drew up in paint to show what I'm talking about. I just put on the new turbo and I don't want to run it if this is the problem.
Thanks,
Nick

AbaZ

That would cause it.

oil return is all about gravity feed, having the oil just "chilling" in the turbo center section will cause problems.

Do you have that hacked CX manifold with a custom adapter on it?

another option is rotating the center section so it aims at an angle towards the pan. That is what we do on most of our setups, especially crx's that have the front cross member in the way.

Jeff Frank

T25 civic

no I have a custom made manifold I bought on here from a guy named DSF. The only problem with clocking the turbo that much is the actuator arm will hit the turbo and I can't move it that far then.

T25 civic

[Modified by T25 civic, 6:11 PM 12/3/2002]

fsp31

I'm having a similar problem with my drain line. I just cranked up the car for the first time last night and oil actually ran out the O2 housing! Does this mean I just screwed my seals? The car just idled for a few minutes. No boost or anything. How do you know when your oil seals are gone vs. the bearing? The turbo will just smoke either way right?

T25 civic

well with mine, the car started smoking real bad, then I noticed a little oil on the inside of the bov. So i checked in the intercooler pipes (I don't have an intercooler so I didn't have to check there) and I noticed they had oil in them. I also checked the intake manifold and it was coated on the inside with oil. HTH
Nick

pita106sg

T25 civic

i have the same problem!! i have oil in the BOV. i checked the charge pipe that leads to the intake manifold but no oil. i still havent check the intercooler pipes yet. But my question is how did you fix it??? thanks!!!

AbaZ

Well, you are going to have to relocate the center section. What we also do is relocate the actuator position on the compressor housing. I drill and tap 2 new holes for mounting.

You need to give that thing good flow, or you will continue to have problems.

Jeff

T25 civic

I went ahead and had an adapter plate made to use the HF manifold that I got, now my only problem is to figure out how much boost the factory actuator on a t25 is goind to run. Cause I have no intercooler right now (can't find one in my price range right now) so I'm hoping its like 5 psi hahah yeah right.
Nick

AbaZ

more like 8psi..

If you dont want to use the factory actuator, just take it off. Instead just get a small carb return spring, and loop it around the wastegate flapper and pull tension wherever you want (block etc).. you may think this is crazy, but it works extremely well. Our D16z6 w/ a 14b made more torque using this method, almost 30ftlbs more. But its a bitch to adjust, and under load it will drop a few lbs.
But you can set it to wherever you want, 1psi 2psi or whatever.

Jeff

mos

If I were you I might try moving the hole in the pan down below the oil level. The oil level should level out anyways, so I don't really see the point of trying to keep it above the oil line. Anyone have any experience with this? The stock dsm t25 actuator is set at 9psi I think. I was thinking about running an adjustable, external, secondary spring along the actuator rod to fight the primary spring. Abaz, your idea sounds good, I might try that instead.

lazerus

if the oil does not drain oil pressure will blow out the seals. one thing you can do is upgrade to a stepped piston ring oil seal... let me get you a link...

http://64.225.76.178/catalog/tuffturbo.html#trim

Hope that helps ya in any way.

T25 civic

I actually just bought another turbo so I'm not woried about the seals, so right now I'm trying to figure out how I can set the boost down to 5 psi. Is there any turbo with an internal wastegate that uses a 5 psi wastegate? Maybe I could switch it over?
Thanks,
Nick

civicwagonman

put some washers under the mounting bolts to space it towards the turbo, that should drop it down a pound or two at least. thats what I did with mine at first.

T25 civic

I'm not to sure what you mean. Do I put the washers in between the flange and the compressor? How will this make a difference? And how much lower exactly did it make it?
Nick

lazerus

best way to do it is to remove the WG and thread the WG arm and make it adjustable...

T25 civic

can you elaborate(sp?) on this? Can I do this on a DSM actuator arm? More details!?
Nick

T25 civic

Anyone ?
Nick

T25 civic

How can I do this?
Nick

T25 civic

Anyone know? Or was it not possible?
Nick

fsp31

(sigh) these people are a wealth of information sometimes.

I'm thinking that by threading the actuator arm to create a length-adjustable section, they're able to position the wastegate so that it can be slightly cracked open to begin with. Does that sound right?

fsp31

One other question about blown seals...

I have a turbo that was not draining properly at all. I ran the engine for about 3 minutes and then only at idle. Oil began dripping out of the exhaust (O2) housing before I shut the car off. Does this mean the seals are already blown? How else would oil have gotten past them?

AbaZ

FYI, when lengthing the wastegate actuator arm, it will give you shitty spool times, since the flapper is slightly open. We have tried it.

Trust me, just try my spring method, you will be very impressed, its not dangerous either, if the spring falls off, the boost goes down to 0. Start with a moderate tension and go drive it.



See the spring is looped around the wastegate flapper, you then pull tension against the block or oil pan, whatever. I wouldnt be making this **** up if it didnt work. And it takes about 5 mins to do.

Jeff Frank

WA DA TA

You do not want to have the WG cracked open at all... It will be super laggy. With the t25 you can simply bend the WG actuator a bit (move it towards the turbine hsg) which will lower boost, or place washers between the actuator and the compressor, yielding the same function. I would honestly not worry much about a few lbs here or there with the t25, as it does not flow much really at all. That written, be careful

Also... where did you get the t25s from? Often, people lose them from DSMs because they get jacked up and die... How is shaft play?

fsp31

My T25 came off a 2G DSM. It does have a tiny bit of shaft play, but it's been sitting up awhil. I'm thinking some fresh oil in there may eliminate some of it. We'll see... The price was right...