Tic55

Hey guys, name is brent and yes I'm 16 almost 17 and own a 98 prelude I got a ebay kit...

Already ik all those things are leading to trouble from what I have read... 16 and ebay don't go together, but it's already done. I'm a average a b student in school, and got a good job.

I've been researching on turbos and crap for almost two years.... I have the basics down. And I need help connecting everything together. My dads a mechanic so I have him to help.

Anyways, I've gotten all the piping done, the turbo is mounted and i have the oil feed line connected... but that's really all... I also have my bov mounted but I can't say that it is hooked up correctly...

My main problems right now are I have no clue what spring is in my waste gate ( didn't say ) and I have a manual boost controller and I have no idea how to hook it up... I've searched looked at pictures and diagrams, everything. I may have a idea but that idea means I have to drill a whole for a vacuum at the end of the turbo. On the cool side.

Please any info or help would be grate... I'd like to not get flamed... I've researched a lot and will continue... again, please don't go off on me bout ebay or life decisions at 16 getting a turbo... I've read a bunch of post on people doing that. Please jyst try to help me...

LightningTeg

I'm just going to answer the actual questions you had:

1. Get an air compressor, hook up air pressure to it, and turn up the regulator until it opens. That's your WG pressure.
2. Depends on the controller. Use the manufactures instructions, but you do NOT need to drill any holes in the turbo. You should be able to Tee into a vacuum line somewhere else, or get a air manifold so you can run all of your lines from one source like the brake booster.

Schister66

Catalog what you have and start planning when/how you'll upgrade it. Ebay parts dont have the best reliability and as such, you should start planning for their eminent failure now so that you're not blindsided and stuck without a vehicle.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

Adding power to a 20 year old vehicle means you need to make sure suspension, steering, transmission, motor mounts, etc are all in decent shape.


Dont worry, youll end up fixing/replacing stuff soon after you get it tuned. Glad pops turns wrenches cuz hes going to be busy.

Every "new to boost" enthusiest goes thru this.. so it isnt just your bad luck.

Tic55

Thank you for the tip on the waste gate presure, I'll have my dad do that.!

For the boost controller there was no instructions...... if needed I can take pics tonight and post them up, but Its jyst the normal universal one. . Google manual boost controller and the main one thwre is the one I have. No manufacturer...

I also have a nice 03 honda civic ex. I love that car and great mpg so yea And I already have planned for when crap goes bad... first off.. in running 4lbs of boost till the 28th of this month than my hondata will be here with p28 ecu... than I'll bump up to 8lbs of boost.... in 2 months I'll have enough money to buy literally any turbo... as om still 16 I'm taking advantage of not having bills and rent ( I have car insurance I have to pay and school clothc, not completely free ) but all of my money is going into this build till its done.. I get 800 a month roughly.... I know two people in real life that have ebay kits.... they are running good still and every where I've read online they normally last around 2500 miles. Which this prelude is only a weekend cruise, track when done car,

My dad has a datsun 260 z with a 302 in it, 200 shot of nos buit for it. I have a 280 right hand drive z, and he has built many many more cars so I am very lucky and thankful to have him on this cause u wouldn't be doing any of it. And yes he truly is making me do it all which I have. I jyst use his tools. But beyond that he looked over the car did a compression check all that made sure it's good, but still in 6 months, roughly. Ill get a engine rebuild kit and try to find some type of rod that'll lower compression and a thicker head gasket.

And I'm sure many many more problems will occur as I've read before. I've also got kteller 3" .. thank you guys for the help, please let me know if I need to post pictures or anything. I'll keep this thread updated.

Tic55

I'm not sure if it'll help you guys but here's the link to turbo I got

T3 T04E 22pc Turbo Charger Kit Manifold Wastegate Oil Feed Line Prelude H22 Vtec | eBay

2kdrift

if its a typical manual boost controller you run it between your boost source and the wastegate

follow the diagram below instead of using the turbo for boost reference use a port off the intake manifold

Tic55

Okay this is where my dad comes in because honestly don't understand what u mean by using a boost reference from the intake manifold, but my dad will... he's understood everything else. But so it's clear... on that picture it shows the pressure source... I was gunna drill a whole right there on my turbo cause it has a little spot that sticks out has a circle like I could.. but just to be clear that's not what I do right.? Find a another source on my intake manifold.?

Sorry for anyone reading... I jyst need clear simple answers Im the type to over think everything.

2kdrift

I do not recommend drilling a hole in the turbo thats not a good "pressure" point as you called it, This is why I say use a port on the intake manifold instead

Tic55

Alright I will do. Thank you guys.! I'll post if any more problems occure

JRCivic1

There is nothing wrong with getting your boost signal right at the compressor housing. You will have to REMOVE the turbo from the manifold, remove the compressor cover from the center wheel section, drill a hole in the round cast boss that you have described and then thread it 1/8" NPT. Now, thread in the appropriate brass hose barb fitting in the hole you have just created, re-assemble your turbo and re-install it on the manifold, and you are ready to plumb your boost controller.

The one "negative" of using this method is that you will have some boost loss through the piping, intercooler and couplers that turn. So if you have say an 8 psi spring, you may only get 6 psi all the way at the intake manifold. If you use an existing port on the intake manifold as your boost source, you will be essentially accounting for the system losses and actually "SEE" 8 psi in the intake manifold. This requires longer vacuum lines leading to your boost controller and wastegate, but it does the same thing.

2kdrift

Yup its kinda innacurate, intake manfiold is alot closer to what your motor is actually seeing, and in this situation it would be more work to reference off the turbo housing and less benefit so no point doing so

Tic55

this is what i have done.. and yes being 16 i have done all of it except my dad helped me torch some crap and helped me figure out couple bolt sizes... other than that all of it i have done. ik this isnt a build page just posting a little so every can see. pictures always help everyone.
first started

I pulled out the radiator and the a/c.. than my dad told me that the radiator had corroded inside my hose so it wasn't usable.. i got a 95 civic radiator.

mounted the intercooler



also can some one tell me what you think.. instead of pulling the oil pan my dad said that we could just take my oil drain line and t it some where into the head sense oil goes to the top of the engine.. what are your guys thoughts?

2kdrift

pan must be removed, its drained by "gravity" so nothing else will work. Buy a weld in fitting remove the pan and have it welded in at the appropriate location by a machine shop

Tic55

But it has pressure pushing it in so wouldn't it have pressure pushing it out? And does that mean I have to have my feed like at the top of the turbo.?

And also I confused my self on the waste gate... it Has two vacums.... and as I read into it people are talking bout a pressure source.. do I need that or can some one explain that to me..?

Tic55

this is my boost controller... i truly have no idea how to hook it up... ik how to hook up the waste gate. but not with the boost controller i even had a buddie come over and look at hit and he had no idea either... 2kdrift i understand your diagram that u posted but i have two ports on my boost controller... as far as i have read i use the bottom one and leave the top one open on the actual controller. and ive read that the top port on the wast gate is a boost controller port but no one has actually conformed that.. and if it is than what do i do with the bottom port on the waste gate..?


so there i have two ports on the controller i use the bottom one and leave the top one open?


on the waste gate ive read that the top port is for a boost controller but i dont know if that is true... so do i use the top port or the side one?

LightningTeg

Your questions can be answered by the FAQ at the top of this sub forum. Much to read you do.

2kdrift

you hook your boost controller up like the image i shared use the bottom port and leave the top port open. Other types of boost controllers are able to use the top port, yours is not able to do so.

as far as the oil return yes feed needs to be one the top and drain needs to be on the bottom. I know it has pressure, but it does not work as you think, and it will destroy your turbo with a quickness if its not installed correctly.

Aradin

I can't wait for the follow up thread about how it blew up shortly after it gets done.

2kdrift

^^^ IKR IMO $800 ebay kit is a waste of money including any money spent on tunning, your gonna need to retune when you install another kit anyway.

Project_EK

iTrader: (1)

Listen to this man.

Tic55

Please if ur not going to help don't post.

I said it in the very first post.. dont go off about ebay... I've done my research... Ik what the risk are... I only have to buy hondata once. There are people around me that have tuned with hondata before. They will help me out. Yes I'm sure they will and yes they do know what they are doing.

Schister66

Had they said these things earlier (before you bought the eBay kit) it would have been much more helpful - now its Monday-morning quarterbacking. You already have the setup so there's no point in discussing whether or not you should have bought it. And to be honest, if you had done your research PROPERLY, you wouldnt have picked up this setup...we've only been at this for 10+ years, but feel free to tell us how we're wrong

What they're getting to is that if you spend $5-600 on tuning, which is pretty typical if you're tuning professionally, and then it blows up soon thereafter (again, quite likely as much as you might not want to admit it), your tuning costs are all for not.

Ever heard the phrase "throwing good money after bad"? That's where you're at right now

pogeeboy27

iTrader: (3)

This would make a good sticky once long term results pour in followed by a rebuild shortly thereafter.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

whelp, after these comments, he's now more determined than ever to prove us naysayers wrong, and then like the other eBay turbo thread, in which the creator comes back every few months to try and gloat about his success with a low thrust load turbo "lasting forever", this same individual's probability of doing the same thing has just now increased. Because in this world now, it's individuality that makes younger people feel successful.

But, on a good note, he has his dad guiding him, for better or for worse, they're having a good bonding experience for a common goal, and they'll go through their successes and pitfalls like any other build.

So, here we should sit back, relax, and see what happens. He must figure this out like the rest of us did.