H22AFerio

I bought this turbo brand new and the engine and turbo have just under 2000miles. Im running a -10an return line to oil pan and -4an line to a 0.65 restrictor from a sandwich plate. I didnt have smoking problems at all until I switched from my breakin oil to Royal purple 5W-30. any time im come to a light with out hitting boost prior to stoping I get a big cloud of blue smoke then it goes away??? its not a constant thing just when I come to a stop and the car idles... so I switched to a 15w-40 and it smoked less until I got about a block from my work and it put off a big puff of blue smoke... any help would be great. doesnt sound like turbo seals but I just want some Input. im at 100psi Oil pressure at 8k idk if this is pushing all this oil past the seals or what?


Motor specs: 479WHP 354tq

H22A JG Sleeves 87mm
CP Pistons
Crower Rods
Scat 95mm crank
ARP Main bolts
KAIZENSPEED Balance Shaft Elemination kit

H22A Head:
Euro R Intake Manifold 68mm TB
Supertech Valve Guides & Valve seals
Delta 272 Cams
Supertech Valve springs
Stock valves
ARP Head Studs

Turbo Stuff:
Precision 6765H T4 housing 3" Vband
2.5 Intercooler Piping
750WHP Turbo XS Intercooler
Greddy Type S BOV
TIAL 38mm WG

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

How many miles are on the head? meaning, were the valve guides and valve stem seals replaced as well? It could be those areas when the head sees vaccuum

joppe

Onetime i clocked my holset little too much and bent return hose, i noticed some smoke when i stopped at lights etc. Oil was going to turbine side so no oil in IC or pipes, Double check your oil return.

ESP.net

I would call precision and see what they recommend far as line size. Always listen to them if something happens then piece of mind. I think I am running -3 on sc61. No restrictor. I would imagine with that bigger turbo a -4 is right but with no restrictor...


80 psi when driving 20 psi or so idle... I did run a .65 restrictor on my 50 trim probably dumb choice didn't last long everything went on it, smoked over heated etc. Babbied it home and bit the bullet and got sc61 threw away the restrictor...

I am not sure I would run 15-40...

Blue smoke is rings...

Compression check you should be atleast 180+ area across the board. I always do a compression check if driving if somewhat often every few weeks to month.

Who put the motor together Johnson's?

Jack the car up grab the wheel on the inlet side check for shaft play...

H22AFerio

about 2000 miles or so. its a fresh head.

checked that its not bent or kinked.. thank you tho.

I called them today they said to run a 4an as long as im not exceeding 60psi but im hitting 100-106 psi full throttle at redline. I think its because of the balance shafts being eliminated.. Im running a 4an with a 0.65 restrictor and that is the only time it smokes is at a light. if a turbo seal was blown wouldn't it just be blowing blue smoke out even on start up or while driving?

ESP.net

The answer is -4 is what precision recommends with no restrictor (journal bearing)...

H22AFerio

wouldn't that just push way too much oil in and make it lean more? they also told me -4an but he said as long as the engine doesn't exceed 60psi witch I don't know a Honda motor that doesn't they thrive on oil pressure. Hey ESP if you are free sometime tomorrow maybe you can take a look at it and tell me what you think, maybe go for a ride. shoot me a text or somthing 360-878-1226

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Hahahaha. If I had a dime for every PM I received from people who believed that....

Lewy. Dee Ayy

iTrader: (1)

iv owned two precision turbos both of my cars did this...i figured it was a precision thing..or i have horrible luck

ESP.net

Well it's true something that goes wrong more than likely to get credit towards the rebuild or on there dime...

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

IF you're hitting over 106psi at WOT, you need an even smaller restictor like a .060" or reduce it to a -3AN. That's too high for ANY turbo regardless of company manufacture.

H22AFerio

that makes sense..

thats what I thinking.. I'm heading to speed factory here in a little bit to get a 3an line cuz I checked the turbo for shaft play and I don't have any... well except for the normal play a journal bearing turbo has. so a lil up and down shaft play is ok but no in and out? there is no oil in the charge piping at all there is just a lil oil on the hot side but I think there is too much pressure as you said and im pushing it right past the turbo seals.. spark plugs are good as well along with the compression check 185 across the board.. I was told running a restrictive air filter would cause the torbo to over work it self and build pressure in the bearing housing is there any truth to this TheShodan? Im running aluminum screen 2 layers of the wides panty hose lmao! and another aluminum screen until yesterday when my intake piping and filter came in. the reason I ran the panty hose is because around here when it gets close to freezing they lay a bunch of sand and gravel I didn't want to fvck up my turbo on the way too work or something

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Correct, no "in and out" shaft play.

Sounds like you're good at least on that point.

You basically have to be blocking the inlet with a rubber cap before that occurs, and even then, the car won't operate properly at all. you'd have trouble even getting out of the driveway.

You've screw it up anyway. 2 aluminum screens and panty hose will NOT protect against the sand laid out on IL roads. There are a ton of filters out there that can still fit, but you're fooling yourself if you think that setup is good as a permanent fix for the winter time. (Time to get a winter beater)

H22AFerio

haha no thats not my permanent fix! that was just so i could drive it to work temporary lol I picked up some 4" intake piping and a 4" K&N filter with a sock for winter time I want to just bolt the filter on the turbo but its to close to my fram rail and the bottom of the radiator support.. so I hadto order a 4' 180 degree "U shape" to put it right behind the front bumper.

ESP.net

-3 might be the best option right now... if any issues with turbo seals it will make them last longer and might fix the oil pressure issue only downside is the worry if enough oil is getting to it... a -4 with no restrictor should of been the solution but since there is an issue... plan B

H22AFerio

yeah I swithed to a -3an line and still had the problem with the smoke... but it solved the oil pressure problem going into the turbo... I took my turbo up to speedfactory and they were messing with it and the journal bearings are fine just the right amount of play up and down but with further inspection the play of the shaft in and out was alomost a 1/8 of an inch in and out!! I guess I couldnt get ahold of the shaft good enough while it was bolted in the car cuz it was bad! they told me its my thrust bearings.... we shipped it off to precision for a rebuild hopfully it wasnt my fault because I took all the precautions pre-oiling ect... What the hell would cause this with only having 1000 miles on a brand new turbo??? I pre-Oiled it as well so it wouldnt start up dry and used quality oil..

I pulled the compressor housing off and you can see where the blades kissed the housing a little bit...

B and B

iTrader: (3)

Maybe the restrictor starved it of oil?

I wonder if, when you were braking, the oil in the pan was sloshing forward and submerging the drain, causing a momentary back-up? If u take the drain loose at the pan..I bet oil comes out. Just thinking..since it started after u changed oil, and carefully added the new..making sure she had plenty.
What oil pan are u using? On my Moroso..full on stick is above the drain a little. Mine puffs a little sometimes

H22AFerio

I think that could have been happened.... Im hoping precision will be in the holiday sprit and repair it one time...Im just running an OEM pan with the bun welded to it... I think I could have a drain issue as well thats why I got a turbowirx scavange pump to suck the oil out of the turbo and pump it back into the pan.... I'll put a picture up later I have it on the camera at home..


Do you guys think this is draning properly?

reactiondc2

as i said in the other thread...the drain back bung is sitting below the oil level in the pan....

dk=gsr

yeah, isn't the return bung suppose to be at its highest point on the oil pan???

tagperformance

+1

H22AFerio

thanks