sohctodohc

Hey guys this is my first attempt of making a "build" thread, take it easy on me I have been here forever but dont post awhole lot anymore....so a lil background.


The car is a 94 honda civic ex, I have actually had the car since I was 15, Im now 25 years young.

Its been through many phases but I cant gt my hands off the h/f phase so im finally gonna go big with it!

So the last engine in the car was actually a f20b, before that engine I had a h22a (that lost a brand new gates waterpump at 10k miles and broke timing belt), so I figured i wanted to try the f20b out for size.

I loved the f20b as a engine it was robust kinda like an actual beefy b16a haha.

Anyways me and my bro decided to turbo it heres the breakdown on what we used.


stock f20b from head to pan
m2b4 transmission rebuilt with carbon synchros and new hubs stock ratios
and I adapted the hybrid racing shifter box and shifter cables(smoothest shifting honda i have ever felt)

skunk2 IM
lovefab ramhorn manifold
44mm tial WG
hx35 turbo
3" dp to 3" exhaust
we fabbed the IC piping DP and Exhaust with the help of our friend who is the man at tig welding
aem v2
k series coils
id1000 injectors 255 pump
aem epm(more on this later)

street tuned it ourselves


So we ran the f20b at about 9psi (not nearly enough for this turbo) the whole time it was running, all we have locally is an 1/8th mile track which for about two months straight we drove it there (40min drive) every weekend best time we managed if i remember correctly was a 8.7ish @ 94ish mph (no traction street tires blah blah blah)


We had some drive ability issues so we opted to pick up the aem epm, while installing it we didn't realize how installed it would effect your ignition pick ups in the aemtuner, we got three varily huge backfires before figuring it out.

At this point the car was making probly close to 400hp

After all this a week later we decided to take it to ST. Louis drag way, we got two runs in and BOOM!!!!!!!!


broke a rod in cylinder three, tried poking its head out of the block but hit the exhaust housing of the turbo went back inside and just wrecked havoc haha.


So now we picked up a h22a closed deck

I have 8.5 to 1 wiseco custom pistons sitting here, K1 Technologies forged rods, darton flanged dry sleeves.

Our goals are gonna be 600hp to the wheels, using all same bolt on stuff (upgrading the fuel system a bit obviously)

Were hoping this shouldnt be to far out there, we figure without having to get to crazy with axles a fuel system and transmission 600hp is a good stopping point,


Do you guys see any issues with us getting that kinda power out of the h22a? either way were gonna try it but i always like suggestions comments whatever



sorry for rambling, cliff notes:

turbod f20b blew it up at 400hp
bought h22a got forged internals shooting for 600hp
throwing money into a fire

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

If its a closed deck H22, you were very lucky... You can use 9.5:1 and better (Why go so low on compression?) Go to AMS, since they're right nearby, and tune from there instead of yourself.

You can get as much power and use of the car for as much as you're willing to spend. And you WILL spend a lot. so be ready.

Start with your list based upon other power setups you've seen, and make an excel spreadsheet of estimated costs.. Even if they are NOT H22 based, because the companies that you'll see the quality setups use, will usually have the same things for H22s as well.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

9Psi on an hx35 is low 300s at best. They don't grt efficient till the 20psi+ range. Also you won't get 600 out of that turbo. Its too small. You'll be lucky to get into the mid 500s

sohctodohc

shodan,

the pistons are sitting here with the rods already, we did get a lil excited and jumped the gun on ordering them ehhh lil extra margin for error haha.

The tuning is fine my bro actually does quite a bit of tuning locally tuned his own 450hp subaru and actually has been paid to drive to springfield once or twice to tune some subarus so were not just pissing into the wind when it comes to that.

and what do you mean lucky for it being a closed deck h22a? all jdm h22a i have ever seen have been closed decks
Im a machinist so i will be prepping the block for the sleeves and all that fun stuff, my friend the welder happens to own a shop and has done severalllllll engine builds and is one of those people i would never question very brilliant man.

we will be installing everything and all work will be done by us so money wise im not to concerned.



wantboost,

after thinking back it might have been in the 320hp area, its been sitting for a few months and i have dicked with any of the dyno graphs.

my brother uses some program he used on his subaru that is excel based and calculates anything you want from your logs weight acceleration in milliseconds temp baro gears and was within 20hp when he actually put his subaru on a dyno so i just use it as a reference.

sorry for the confusion

ESP.net

9 or 9.5-1 is fine... 8.5-1 no one really goes that low these days with the H however if you already have them...

Ditch the 255 you will run out of pump at 500-550 get the stealth 340 also a drop in (in tank) Fuel Pump good for over 600 hp.

92-95 JDM H22As are closed deck I think OBD2 JDM H22As are open.

sohctodohc

for ***** n giggles were gonna try walboros new 400lph "e85" pump and see where thats gets us, your right on the h22a's.

we are also gonna try something out with putting stock injectors in stock location and im gonna drill the manifold out and add the the id's further upstream and make a fuel rail for it, mainly for driveability reasons but also with the aem v2 we can control it so we will basically have 1300ish cc's of fuel to play with at base pressure

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I thought about doing a second set of injectors but the tuning required is ridiculous and without a standalone you won't make It work.

It would honestly be easier and cheaper (money on tuning time) to run a properly sized set of primary injectors.

sohctodohc

well the main reason we are doing it is for start up and driving around town, at first the plan is to run the id1000s in the stock location slowly adjust the secondary injector table just to get an idea of how the car reacts and when we have a decent idea of that swap the injectors around and go from there,

the v2 has a decent map and options tables for this kind of setup, and were not actually doing it to be able to support more power its for the down low area being able to support a lil extra power doesnt hurt tho!

sohctodohc

ordered the sleeves last night from realstreet performance....good people fast response event sent me an email with the picture of the box before shipping it!

they get an A in my book

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

The bosch ev14 injectors idle fine and have great part throttle driveability. You arent running a big enough injector to even worry about stuff like that.

Keeo it simple

Jsarv

running secondaries and tuning for them is simple. There are enough theories behind injector sizing and idle to prove that its worthwhile to have a long duty cycle on smaller injectors for idle and high vacuum points.

8.5-1 can always be made up with boost, high static compression is nice for driving out of boost. Keeping it low also allows the car to have a secondary tune for 93 octane incase of an emergency.

MalcolmV8

What do you mean driveability reasons? ID 1000s are some of the best injectors I've ever used. They idle and drive my little D motor like stock and I do mean absolutely like stock. No issues at all. In fact I was so impressed by them I ordered a set for the Cobra and tossing the SD 80 lbs out of it. They absolutely suck and are so inconsistent on how much fuel they meter.

These just arrived a couple days ago for the Cobra. Time to make it drive like stock again out of boost



As for H22A closed or open deck. What are you guys talking about?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

There was a limited number of H22A Engines that were a full aluminum closed-deck design that naturally allowed for a bit more boost pressure without the issue of aftermarket sleeving, due to the cylinders being completely surrounded for bracing.. Most others, (H22A4s) were a standard open-deck cylinder block design susceptible to cracking like the others.

MalcolmV8

Ah ok. Thanks for explaining.

sohctodohc

All A/A1 H22 engines were closed deck FRM sleeves. All H22a4 (or OBD2 - 1997 or newer) were open deck blocks with FRM sleeves as well.

We have a 93 (stamped) H22a block which is closed deck.