honda_12V

iTrader: (2)

Hello everyone,

Presently am driving a Type S h22 in my accord, got light mods crower cams stage 2, bmc intake, aem box, LSD U2Q7 gearbox etc.

As the new year comes i have decided to make it a turbo year. Wish to spend my next year parting together slowly a proper turbo daily driver. I have read many number of turbo threads. I know about the FRM issue of the motor so sleeving is a definite. To make issues worse my budget is tiny for this build if i can get everything together in 1500-2000$ i would be very satisfied.

I want to build it slow but sure. I need it to be reliable street and strip mix. Any information you can provide about who can build this motor what components is most welcome. It would be still be a H22 block and H22 head. I did some reading on G23 but got discouraged with the high rod prices.

I did some work on the compression calculator also, guessing 9.0:1 should be right.

But still your personal experiences and views are most welcome.

This is my first turbo build am both scared and excited. Specially about selection of components and turbo. Please advice

Regards

Charlie Moua

iTrader: (3)

use search button...



i'll give you simple reply

- if this is your 1st turbo build, find out who you want as a tuner first. Ask them for their advice & preference in parts + tuning software.
- darton 300 series sleeves $700ish installed
- keep stock crank, intake manifold, tb fuel rail, fpr
- eagle rods
- wiseco 9.5-10.1cr pistons
- 60mm or bigger turbo
- e85
- 1000cc injetors at min
- ramhorn manifold
- decent fmic


GLWTB

Timmerrr

Op i hate to say it but with only 2k you cant build an engine with new sleeves, pistons and rods unless you do all the work your self. You can piece together your own kif for around 2k you could make about 300hp on the stock internals. If you state your hp goals it would be helpfull

Timmerrr

^sry i i forgot about the thread title. Your gona make 500hp with only 2k

honda_12V

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the replies.

I have used the search bottom more than often.

Thus i realise that FRM being the main issue with a H block - the reason i want to sleve it. Or could use a F23 block with K20 pistons but rods on that block are custom or crower and both are expensive.

Further, i do understand sleves darlton 300 are expensive what about GE or Darlton 200-018 what is your opinion on those

What is your opinion on the open deck of the H block, what would be the perfect bore for getting my stated 500whp goal???

Why do you suggest the 10.0 comp? is that not too high for a FI build?

Above are some the questions i could not find answers, could you please help answer.

Also what would be the right red line??? Lastly i am stuck with 95 RON as i dont get any better where i live or i go water meth mix.

I guesss i should have stated all this before, stupid mistake i guess. Hope you help reply some of the top.

Lastly, what would be a viable budget for a decent reliable 500WHP build???

Regards

Timmerrr

If you wanted to use the f23 you should look at this

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/n-fi-afaccords-10-1-comp-turbo-f23-build-restoration-thread-3005902/

Other wise 4~5k would be what i would set aside to do a build like this

Builda'Teg_92

Not 2k...thats forged internals and sleeves right there.

I would say from 4.5k and up at the minimum, especially starting from scratch.

Charlie Moua

iTrader: (3)

OP,
I like how you write out your post.
It's well organized, questions are easy to read & understand.


The cost of installing daron dry 200 or 300 series sleeves, shipping, honing may work out to be a little expensive than F23 stock sleeve/block with custom rods. But the pricing difference should be very little.

If it was me, I would stick with the H22 block & just install some dry sleeves.
This makes installing everything easy & you don't have to worry mixing matching parts.
Keep it simple. No need to try to complicate it more than needed.

So you guys have 95 octane in your country, if so then yes keep the CR down to 9.1 just to be save. I prefer running higher compression just because over the years the evolution of the import scene has allowed for better fuel, tuning software and tuner skills.

As for what redline should be for your engine, it depends..... only way to know is to have it tuned and your tuner & the dyno will show you where your power begines to drop off & you can select your shift points. I'm guessing with mild cams, it should not be more than 8400rpms.

If i had to put together a decent kit with quality parts, it would cost around $2400ish (some used parts). If it was NEW parts it would be closer to $2800ish

I saw your PM, but will reply later tonight when I have some more time.
Charlie Moua

h22-eg-hatch

iTrader: (1)

Mahale gold pistons. Stock sleeves.
Any cheap rod (eagle..scat..etc..)
Everything else stock. With exception if fuel pump injectors and regulator
Hondata s300
eBay (XS power) turbokit.
Good tune.
300-350 hp easy

Charlie Moua

iTrader: (3)

yeah but he wants 500whp. lol

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

So its time to SLEEVE...

honda_12V

iTrader: (2)

I see time to time sleved blocks for sale. Do you they are a good investment. I definitely want to sleve it gives me room for the future. I don't mind waiting longer getting it right.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Any GE sleeved block comes with a lifetime warranty as long as you show ownership from at least the original seller. So even now if you got a used Sleeved Golden Eagle block, you'd be fine. The Darton MIDs may not have such a guarantee because it depends upon who installed the sleeves. (Golden Eagle only sleeves in ONE place in California and does not sell their sleeves to machine shops like Darton does)

honda_12V

iTrader: (2)

Thank sir nice informTion that is why I could not find sleve on the ge website mentioned in the product list. I guess my best luck is to look for a used ge sleve block on hondatech maybe I get lucky...

what do you guys suggest for bearing sizes and clearance. I hear all don't give the required clearance to Honda stock spec. I am lucky I already have cower turbo cams at home.

Am from Mauritius by the day small island in the Indian ocean next to Africa

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Well your location will make the build more expensive an timely due to shipping/freight costs and time to send/receive parts, so 2k definitely won't get you thre

honda_12V

iTrader: (2)

I am not including the shipping costing the budget will keep that apart. Hopefully over the year I will work harder and try to do justice to my build. I don't mind it to be slow but Have to get it right..

What about the gearbox do you think the stock lsd will be able to still help tout the power down?? I know stock shafts won't hold... imo. What about tiers??

Would it be more interesting to work a h223 block get more torque on the bottom???
Regards

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Start with lower power levels and go from there... you'd be amazed how much fun out can be... anything over 350 on a fwd car is usually unusable on the street

honda_12V

iTrader: (2)

Sir,

I do agree with you that something over 350whp in a FWD car is almost undrivable on the street.

I drive around 200-300 miles max in a week. what i want to build is a setup where on the road i can leave the boost low and drive around rather easily and effortlessly... but on the drags crank up the boost and make a good time.

For that in my understanding i would definitely need to have a solid block which can take abuse as and when required.

What is your opinion?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

well considering your commute, I'd still build the engine as though it were used to be much more abused. Commuting time is actually just as hard if not harder on an engine than going to the drag strip. But lower boost doesn't mean you don't avoid all possible dangers of blowing up. It could be 2psi and you could still detonate without proper tuning

You must have not looked in the "Sleeving" section. Your H22A Application is right there.
http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com/index....fhf8u1s51e0ak5

You may even have them assemble the entire thing for you.

honda_12V

iTrader: (2)

Definitely tuning is a major issue. I tune my aem serIes 2 box myself or with help from a etune with raphly at drt racing new York. Good stuff.

Am particularly simple and conservative tuner keep afr egt knock headphone etc on top priority.

What I meant was I dint see golden eagle selling just selves. Does anyone have a idea what they chArge for a sleve job??? Provided I find a suitable block on Honda tech. No one answered the h22 or h23 choice. I always ask myself how do h23 users safely rev the motor high isnt the long stroke N issue???

ThAnks everyone for replies very kind of you guys.

Regards

honda_12V

iTrader: (2)

I agree on building the block for max abuse I think it's a better longer term investment that way...

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Golden Eagle doesn't sell sleeves alone, They keep quality control by installing sleeves in House, and don't sell the sleeves to machine shops like Darton or Benson. One stop shop.

H23 users don't rev high, as there's no point in doing so. that's why they are a longer stroke, to get better powerband and the same piston acceleration without the need to "rev high".