97_Built

My ERL Block cracked due to improper installation (on their side) and they are refusing to warranty anything

Soooo, with 2k in the hole, I'm out to build a new block.

Original engine details:

H22A1 Block with nice crack between #2 and #3 cylinders, where the sleeves sit.
Darton MID Sleeves, not damaged
Bored to 89.5mm
Wiseco 9:1 cr pistons, not damaged
Crower Billet Steel Rods, one scorched from the rolled rod bearing
Knife-edged and balance H22 Crank, needs to be micro-polished again
ACL Race bearings
ARP mains
Pro Drive oil pump
OBX oil pan

Full Race ported and polished H22 head by Endyn (Quoted by Endyn as their second best flowing H22 Head)
Supertech and Skunk2 valvetrain
Type R lost motion assemblies
Flat faced valves, stock size, nitride coated
Stock H22 cams
Skunk2 Pro cam gears
Milled 30mm

Total Compression ratio was right at 10:1
Displacement: 2.3
WHP goal: 500whp at 15 psi

If you haven't noticed from the details above, there are a few things that should be changed for the next build.

This is the plan so far:

New sleeved H22A4 Block
Darton MID Sleeves
Bored to 89mm, instead of the original 89.5mm
Wiseco low compression pistons, most likely 8:1'ish
Keeping the Crower Billet Steel rods and replacing or repairing the scorched one.
Keeping the crank, micro-polishing again.
Keeping the Pro Drive oil pump
Keeping the OBX oil pan

Head stays the same other than installing a pair of Skunk2 Pro 1 series cams.

Estimated Compression Ratio: 9:1
Displacement: 2.3

Here is where I really could use some suggestions.
With the 500+ cost to reuse the original crank, I thought about slapping in an H23 crank. With the longer stroke, I would gain an estimated .1 liters, giving me a total of 2.4 liters. I've already done some searching around on the tech forums but some things remain a lil unclear. I've heard rumors that the H23 crank doesn't have the durability like the H22. I've also heard about some issues with the size of the mains on the H22.

Can someone shed some light on this?
Is this a good combination for a boosted stroker build?
Is this combination even possible?

The vehicle is a '97 Prelude base.
H22A4 Transmision
4 Puck Sprung Stage 5 clutch
ACT Pro light 9.9lb flywheel
Quaife Helical LSD
P&P Skunk2 Pro Intake Manifold
Junky DC Header

Thanks for your time and patience.
Mike

B20luda

mains on the h22a1 are 50mm as well as 97 h22a4's anything above that is 55mm mains you just need to find the correct main sizes and it should work.. also you need h23 rods to do the crank swap...

97_Built

Typo. Bad on my part. The new block is an A4 but I'm unsure of what year it's from.

What about a K24 crank?

#1rudebwoy

nah i am running the a stroked 89mm bore with an f series crank, and no the k24 wont fit properly in the block we tied and it just say there but was too long .

97_Built

I've heard that there is a way to modify the snout on the K24 crank so that it would fit properly. The new block I'm getting has the 55mm mains, by the way.

twkdCD595

With 55mm mains you could use an F23 crank if you want more stroke or obviously an H22a4 crank from a 98+ motor to stay with what stroke you had.

97_Built

Has anyone done the K24 crank into an H22 Block? Seems like it would need some type of modification to adjust for the snout.