Timmay

how are you keeping your cars cool?

92 hatch
aluminum 1/2 size rad dual core
shrouded fan
hood spacers
front bumper is cut above the i/c for more air flow

cant seem to keep this car under 205, usually is 208-210 via autometer gauge in the head

tried with a punched out thermo, stock thermo etc.

weather has been 105-115 deg here lately, really would like to keep the car 200 or lower if possible

sohc turbo with ram horn manifold. What tips/tricks are you guys using?

BlueTeg

iTrader: (2)

If your intercooler occupies all of space in the front grill you're not helping the radiator's cause. The flow velocity of the air after it has had to push it's way thru the intercooler is down coupled with the fact that the air being fed to the radiator is now even hotter after the heat transfer from the intercooler.

I had to cut my intercooler in half in order to feed enough "cool" air to the radiator to drive and race it in the summers here in AZ.

Ditch the hood spacers they're only adding under hood pressure at speed, not releiving it. Greater under hood pressure also reduces your radiator's efficiency.

wilham320

iTrader: (1)

What fan do you have? Also, what temp does the fan come one at?


Turbo blanket, wrap manifold and downpipe, Get a big bad *** SPAL fan, set fan on temp Via ECU to ~180 ish.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

You shouldn't need the fan to run constantly to keep the motor cool when cruising speed only at low speed and standing still. The opening on the eg is small so airflow is restricted to begin with. Cutting the opening larger was a good start. Now you need to divert air to the radiator. Block off the driver side that is probably wide open. Airflow will take the path is least resistance. If your force it to the radiator by blocking off all around it will greatly improve airflow to the radiator.

If you still need more airflow think about building a sheet metal duct under the front of the car to direct airflow from under the car to he rad bypassing the intercooler.

What fan do you have on the car ? If your running a 12" fan with shroud that's not going to cut it either. Should run a 14" Zirgo or spam fan only. These fans are large enough to not need a shroud and they flow somewhere around 2750 cfm vs a 12" fan will only flow 1200-1300 if its a good one

You could also put in a wider radiator. Chase bays makes one that fits in the radiator support and is full sized width wise. Or you can find one that fits. I personally run a radiator for a VW scirocco in my dc and works great.

2000CTRSi

Oem halfsize with ramhorn 198 205 with an autoparts slim 12

Timmay

thanks but you are in FL, alot of humidity there makes a huge difference

we are 105-115 deg and under 10% humiidty


we are running a mishimoto fan/shroud, cannot put any bigger of a rad in due to the manifold so a full size is out of question

fan is set to turn on around 180 via hondata

turbo manifold ha some wrapping on rad side, downpipe and dumptube are wrapped

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Get a turbo blanket and completely wrap the manifold. Deducting radiant heat really helps. That sucks you can't put a wider radiator. You need to divert air and block off anywhere it can go by the rad. Those mishimoto fans suck ***. I had one and ditched it quickly. Zirgo and spal are the only way to go especially in a situation where your having cooling issues. Be sure to run a new oem thermostat not aftermarket or cooler temp unit. You may also need to step up to an electric water pump system if the other steps don't completely work.

Timmay

yea oem thermo. the mishimoto fan helped a bit over just having a normal slim fan direct on the rad, couldnt even idle the car before without it getting hot it seemed like

we have been looking at ways of getting more air to the rad as the ic does block pretty much everything

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Also, putting a radiator inside the radiator support will cause more issues for overheating.

What's the actual capacity of the radiator for water/coolant? Even some half radiators like koyo and fluidyne hold 2x the coolant to flow through than even OEM full size.

Timmay

honestly dont know the capacity of it, we put a stock one back in and it was going over 210

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Please explain how putting the radiator inside the support will cause
Overheating issues. I'm currently running mine this way and my car runs 187-189 highway/street driving before it turned into a track car and idles 196-202 in 90-100 degree temps

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Depending upon the radiator and efficiency of the intercooler used, there are many circumstances in which heat exchange efficiency in the radiator will decrease exponentially, if the spacing between the radiator and intercooler are not at least 2-4 inches apart. Not only have I seen this in Honda turbos but also LT1 and LS1 turbocharged Camaros in which the OEM placements of the radiator and intercooler are in extremely close proximity to one another on the BOTTOM on the radiator support. This happened about a week ago on a turbo 76mm Camaro I was working with.

The point is that most that do try to perform "radiator tucks" don't account for the 2-4 inch spacing between intercooler and radiator needed to have optimal heat exchange for both devices.

In your case, Turbo-LS, based upon the photos you've presented, although your radiator is inside the radiator support, you still have a good 2-4 inches of spacing between your intercooler and radiator.

To sum up, my point is not about whether or not a radiator is inside a radiator support that determines inefficient heat exchange, but the spacing between the two devices that may cause heat issues. I'm simply advising that the OP check that spacing between his radiator and intercooler.

Timmay

we have easy 3-5" between the 2

we do not however have a blocker plate on driver side as its a ramhorn with back door i/c. But we are planning on making a aluminum block plate that can divert air to the rad

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

That could work, considering your situation.. What other water/coolant/wetter mixes have you used thus far? Would you mind posting any possible pictures of your engine bay relative to radiator and intercooler?

Timmay

this is only one i have right



tried 80% distilled with some coolant
all distilled with water wetter

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

That radiator seems awfully thin. What company is that? Spacing between I/C and radiator looks good. There are some other factors here. Radiator / coolant/water/wetter mix, too.

Timmay

its a dual core, stock single core you cant even drive 10 miles before its over 210

right now we are all distilled with the water wetter in it

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

1)"dual core" is really common, and are not the same construction from different companies. That may be one area to address later


2) In the meantime, Its definitely time to run some OEM coolant to add with the wetter, unless going to the track A LOT. I think that's an issue based upon your location. Ethyl Glycol does WONDERs for cooling due to its higher boiling point over distilled water (that's why its more commonly used over the last 40 years). Especially the Honda and Toyota OEM blends over the Prestone/Peak stuff when it comes to aluminum radiators.. Currently, your boiling point is just too high for the car to do any effective cooling at these outside temperatures in which even distilled water /wetter at Texas heat won't do it.

Timmay

when i say dual core as it has 2 channels inside vs 1 big channel. Ive been told that the single channel is actually better, but honestly dont want to spend 300 on a radiator just to find out it didn't make any difference

https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/i...oZlWLl3D7-wpaH

Orangevirus1

worst case scenario put an intercooler sprayer on ur radiator.

it's a band aid.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Again. Manufacturing specifics will vary on "dual core". To determine efficiency. I'd concentrate on using the Ethyl Glycol first before the radiator. BUT, the Radiator CAP may also not be holding down pressure properly. i've seen that a lot with Mishimoto caps that are 1.3kg and can't keep the pressure down and cause increase in water temps

Intercooler sprayer won't help with his cooling issue. They are used only for the intercooler if it gets into a heat soaked situation. Its not even a bandaid.

After that.. then yes.. a REAL radiator may be in order. (No insult intended), as well as radiator cap

Timmay

this is just a mishimoto fan, rad ill have to see what brand. Cap seems to be holding fine its not pushing into overflow at all. im sure its a 1.3 cap

going to try some coolant in it, we have some extended life stuff that has high Eythl glycol content
also going to make a diverter where the ac condensor use to be that can direct all that air toward the rad
i think fan is a 12" going to try to bump to the 14"

would be very happy if could keep car at 200 deg or less

Orangevirus1

maybe try that special honda coolant everyone talks about?

Timmay

thought about this actually but thats just a pain in the ***. I know it would work as we have a weed spray that i can spray on the rad and it will cool it off. I dont want a bandaid though

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Thank you Mac for that explanation I did not understand and now I do. Your always good for a great explanation.

OP you could get a custom radiator taut would be dual pass which will also help quit a bit. Seeing how yours is setup I can see why your car runs hot.