TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

That's DAMN risky, and not worth the budget savings. Even shot-peened don't like that kind of power.

I know we all aren't made of money, but time IS money, and going back to take something apart that put a hole in the block or worse, isn't worth that kind of cheap-out nonsense.

And yes, i've used forged piston on a stock shot-peened rod.. But smart enough to keep it NA.

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

So far the best bang for the buck on rods seems to be Eagle. Any recommendations for a Piston? I'd like to keep the around the same compression.

ls joker

i like my je piston, no cold piston slap at all. but ive heard great stuff from pretty much all makers from cp, arias, wiseco, mahle. skunk2 makes nice rods. i think the shodan had a build using them.

im still trying to figure which piston is right as far as weight, structure, and whatnot. leaning towards arias though.

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

I've known one person to run Arias I'll have to check them out. The best pricing I've Found so far is from Supertech. About $450 and I can get them at 10:1, so they look perfect to me. Are they any good? Haven't heard many people running them.


Joe

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

Here are the pics I have of the B20 bottom end. Notice the differnce between the cylinder walls. Anyone know what caused this? If I drag my finger nail across the cylinder it still feels smooth like the other cylinders.

Todallybuilt

iTrader: (1)

I bought a set of Supertech B20 9.5:1 Pistons for my build, go check out my build thread so you see them, they look awesome and have good reviews. Is it me but I am not seeing anything wrong with your cylinder walls? They look fine to me. I would send it out to the machine shop so they can verify if there is any cracks.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Wiseco, JE are pretty standard for that compression. Wiseco being the 1st choice with either your Eagle or Skunk2 rods.

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

Todallybuilt, the 2nd pic was the only cylinder with that brown dicolorization. All the other cylinders look like the 1st pic.

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

Also thanks for the piston inpuy.

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

Can anyone tell me why that cylinder looks different? The Piston also has noticeably less carbon build up also.

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

So I think I have a problem. I tried to spin the exhaust cam and it was pretty much seized. Pulled the caps and doublechecked I used assembly lube, applied more lube and then retorqued the caps at 16ft. The intake spins freely while "snapping" the valves closed when I turn the cam. The exhaust cam does not "snap" close. I have to turn the cam to get the valves to close. Does anyone have an idea what this could be?

Joe

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

I finally got the car started with the new block and S300. I'm going to tune it myself and I have a lot of reading up to do. Any good places to start? Specifically about Hondata?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Head over to engine management for help

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Shodan.

I'm slowly learning on the s300 and it has me back in the car! I've been sorta down about the car butthis serves as motivation to continue. Hopefully I'll be driving it by the weekend.

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

A friend of mine was selling his sleeved B16 for a good price so I figured I'd pick it up.






Block
9:7.1 CP pistons
Carillo rods

Head
Ported B16
Supertech valve springs and retainers
Skunk2 PRO1 cams

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Good find.. with TODA RACING gears to boot

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. I also thought they were Toda but they're peak performance. Will a 190 walbro support 500hp? Whats the best engine break in method also? I've never broke in a motor let alone a expensive one like this.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

To your first question, no. A 190 walboro will not support 500whp.

2nd. Break in methods vary. Some do a fast dyno break in, if they have the availability right at tune time. It can work, if done correctly.

I'm personally more old-school and have only done slower 500 mile break in methods. I'm just that patient,though.

P.M. me if you're interested in what I did step-by-step. Not in the mood for a lot of rebuttal. I just know what worked for my 5 builds. All were slow method

ls joker

Good buy on the motor. What bore is it. I take it your friend never ran the motor

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

No it hasnt ran since it was built. 84.5 mm. The shortblock was assembled by TPR in Cincinnati, OH for his SFWD coupe.

king06

iTrader: (1)

Make sure you put the lower timing belt cover back on, yiu don't want any debris tearing up the timing belt. I like the hard break in.

Ive only don't a couple motors, but haven't had problems. No smoke, no consumption great compression.

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

It's been a slow month but I'm back at it. I've decided to take the car to English Racing in WA and I'm ******* excited! Im going to replace the pro1s with stock cams at thr moment. Was recommended to do so because of the size of the turbo (54mm) so stock b16 cams this year.

Can someone confirm if you need 2 washers on the bottom of the timing belt while using an ATI damper?

ls joker

idk, but im ready to see some midrange numbers

boosted94gsr

Good call on tuning it at English Racing they are a really good shop. I had a really good experience with them about 10 years ago when they fixed a lot of problems with my very first GSR turbo integra. You will definitely get a really good tune there.

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

Can't wait to be honest. Should be a fun car, still has the b16 transmission with lsd.