When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm not simply referring to brand only. "Brand" is only one part of the criteria. Specifications of that brand to meet with the T1 camshaft is what's even more important. That's all I was referring to.
I get that... I was first gonna start with a reputable brand and then match up to what I need. I think I'll just go with ferrea. I don't remember ever hearing a bad review from them.
I get that... I was first gonna start with a reputable brand and then match up to what I need. I think I'll just go with ferrea. I don't remember ever hearing a bad review from them.
You won't, Ferrea products are top notch and are used in most high horsepower applications and for sure very nice for the any street car. You will get years upon years of use with Ferrea products.
Upgrade my current Vibrant 550hp intercooler to a properly sized Garrett intercooler and
Upgrade my B16 to a Edlebrock Performer X intake manifold $1000
Im looking to make 450-500 with my new Silver Surfer. Cams will obviously give me more power and help with midrange and spool. With a more efficient intercooler I can turn the boost up more and be able to shove more into the motor with the new Edlebroke manifold and save a little money also.
Upgrade my current Vibrant 550hp intercooler to a properly sized Garrett intercooler and
Upgrade my B16 to a Edlebrock Performer X intake manifold $1000
Im looking to make 450-500 with my new Silver Surfer. Cams will obviously give me more power and help with midrange and spool. With a more efficient intercooler I can turn the boost up more and be able to shove more into the motor with the new Edlebroke manifold and save a little money also.
That decision depends purely on which will become a restriction first based on your power goal. To be honest I personally don't see the NEED to upgrade anything for your power goal, I made 550whp (Dynapack at 5500 ft elevation) with the stock B16A intake manifold on "small" Crower Turbo cams. If you've been advised that the Intercooler will become a restriction then upgrade that.
You state ITR intake cam in your first post, so I'm assuming that the current setup is ITR intake and B16A exhaust cam ? If that's the case I would try and find either a ITR or GSR exhaust cam and just go with that - it will make the target power level with those cams. The intake manifold will help on the power front but it isn't a MUST either IMO.
You'll need a better intercooler first even before the camshafts. I would say BOTH, as LOWLUDE has shown it to work optimally with both, but the intercooler for sure needs the better attention over the camshaft for that type of turbocharger.
Extremeracer has a point: If you have an ITR intake camshaft and a B16 Exhaust camshaft, change that exhaust camshaft to no smaller than a GS-R for this. Using that B16A exhaust camshaft will have some pretty bad restrictions. (If I'm reading this correctly).
This is LOWLUDE22's build thread and videos. That can really help you with some insights.
Report back when you actually made change. It sounds like its that NO / NC Checkbox.
You can verify its working right by setting it to fixed duty cycle, 50%, activation pressure should be in vacuum somewhere so you can turn key on engine off and listen to it clicking.
So tonight I finally tried this... I switched to normally open and hit boost cut every gear. I also tried the fixed duty cycle and 50% and didn't hear any clicking... Now im really confused...
So tonight I finally tried this... I switched to normally open and hit boost cut every gear. I also tried the fixed duty cycle and 50% and didn't hear any clicking... Now im really confused...
Did you set activation pressure to less than atmospheric pressure (ie vacuum) also ? This is required for the static test.
For the actual road test you need to go down to like 15 - 20% duty cycle as I explained and check if you get close to wastegate pressure. Also verify your actual wastegate pressure is what you think it is.
Did you set activation pressure to less than atmospheric pressure (ie vacuum) also ? This is required for the static test.
For the actual road test you need to go down to like 15 - 20% duty cycle as I explained and check if you get close to wastegate pressure. Also verify your actual wastegate pressure is what you think it is.
Ok I'll try it again once I get the car back together. My turbo Silver Surfer showed up last night but I'm still waiting on the fittings. It's actually smaller than my turbonetics so I'm excited to see how this turns out! I just picked up a truck so I'm gonna put the intercooler and cams on hold right now. Just gonna install the turbo and take it in for the tune.
Waiting on my .065 resrtictor and ill be good to go. Although it's a little tight, the water lines were easier than expected to hook up. Waiting on an email back from English and ill be back on the dyno. Going for a race gas tune too.
I have the oil filter just not in the pic... the other filter though.... suggestions? It's pretty cramped in there with the radiator tured sideways and big *** spal fan.
I have the oil filter just not in the pic... the other filter though.... suggestions? It's pretty cramped in there with the radiator tured sideways and big *** spal fan.
I have the oil filter just not in the pic... the other filter though.... suggestions? It's pretty cramped in there with the radiator tured sideways and big *** spal fan.
Hard to tell from the pics but do you have room to build a 3" intake pipe off the turbo to make the air filter sit somewhere past the radiator. Better pics of the bay might help with suggestions.
Hard to tell from the pics but do you have room to build a 3" intake pipe off the turbo to make the air filter sit somewhere past the radiator. Better pics of the bay might help with suggestions.
The Genuine HKS unit is a nice filter to use, as it's a polymer filter and not a "sponge" like the knock-offs. However, Boosted94gs-r is right, you can use a 2.5" piece of intake pipe with a 3" to 2.5" reducer coupler and do one of two things:
1) Make an intake pipe (or purchase) as boosted94gsr suggests to go past the radiator. (Notice how this is done on 3 different exhaust manifolds, including your tubular log manifold.)
This is boosted94gsr's. Even though he has his compressor inlet in the opposite direction, notice he still has a full intake on the compressor inlet (wraps around a little, too)
2) Have an intake of about 3" in length pointing downward toward the ground.
I really suggest something other than just a filter on the end of the turbo. That config may look easy and compact, but it actually slows the turbos ability to ingest air well. A small length of pipe does wonders for the "spool" capabilities of any turbocharger.
I was able to straighten out the raditor because of the new compressor housing and use old 3in piping and v stack from my old na b20v. New couplers and filter and itll be ready to rock.
New parts installed -
STC Silver Surfer watercooled
Garrett 600hp intercooler
3in compressor intake with blox v-stack
Still waiting on my restrictor but once I get it I'm gonna start it up and check for leaks. Next Wednesday its going back on the dyno at English Racing hoping to hit my dyno goal of 450whp and shortly after hit the track for my goal of low 12s (maybe high 11s) on street tires. This should be a good test of wall matched engineered parts vs thrown together parts.
02-21-2017, 10:22 AM
re: gutted-dx's Sleeved B16 STC Surfer Engine Build Progress Thread.
