98EGY8

i picked up a b18a longblock w/ no im for cheap, it was sitting outside, upside down for a few years. valves are rusted in place on pr4 head, i have a p75 head from a damaged sleeved b20 build, heads swaped, cylnders had no rust surprisingly, arp head studs, using pr4 cams and rockers from a1 head,p75 cams were a little rusty due to coolant in oil, new oil pump,stock rods pistons, precision 680cc aem fpr, edlebrok tb, gm map mounted firewall, 50mm china charger china top mount 44mm v band, 44v-38 adapter tial wastegate 12psi. i havent ran the motor yet, i have a test bay to run it in, im waiting for clutch kit, arp rod bolts, crank pully, timing belt, water pump to arrive. waiting till after first start (w/o turbo on of course) and oil change to hook up oil feed return.

goal is 300hp, roughly 270 whp. this is for my not registered drag hatch, i got the car in the winter and have been prepping it since, im building a few more serious motors that im taking my time with but i really want to get it to the track this season

TravisBiggie

Did you go through the block at all? Did you hot tank, or resurface the head? doesn't look like it since its still filthy. Tbh, with the motor out of the car, you shouldve done a basic overhaul of the motor, new bearings, rings, cut the valves n seats, valve seals, hone cylinders and resurface all mating surfaces. You don't know what condition it is in at all, so you may fire it up just to burn a **** load of oil, have **** compression and make **** for power, or have it knock in a couple hundred miles, then youlll have to pull it out all over again and hate yourself every minute for not rebuilding it.

Good luck with your china turbo and manifold, and the build of course.

98EGY8

the longbock has a weird story to it, it went guy was rebuiding it for himself, original head cracked an exhaust valve, he pulled the head, got another (the one with the seized valves now), had block and head resurfaced, new hg oil pump water pump arp headstuds, said he heard an odd noise when tighting the cam caps down (bolts were all way over tightented) and had a lot going on so he droped the project (literaly in the back yard no were to store it), i was skeptical of the work done but when i swaped the heads it all checked out, surface looked great and checked with machinist straight edge and feeler gauge, head from b20 wasnt burning oil and ran fine, checked with feeler gauge. i indeed need luck with the turbo and manifold, hopefully the turbo doesnt kill iteslf and the manifold doesnt kill the turbo lol, if it goes i have holset hx35 and h1c bwr topmount i can use. im just trying to get something running to hold me over (and take some pressure off me) while i build d16t and b18ct

Jockobo

Does that oil feed flange have a restrictor built in ? I run a -3 with no restrictor to that turbo with no issues and it seems to already have a built in restrictor. Should be able to hit your goal I made 313@22 psi on a D16Y7

B and B

iTrader: (3)

I love the How the Chinacharger has "Turbo" cast on it...ftw!
Is the Garrett real? The comp. wheel looks like a jet turbine.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Where are you seeing this? That is an 11 single bladed GTX design in a genuine Garrett (housing at least).

Just going by the above photo

98EGY8

the oil feed flange does have a restrictor built in and the turbo came with a restrictor that is threaded into the chra also, good to hear i should be able to make 300, tuning it on s300. ya garretts real gtx3582r, i dont plan on that setup running for awhile, goal is 7+ on that build, the d build im planning on getting done over the summer

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Then don't use that restrictor flange. And there is no true "built in" restrictor that regulates the pressure you need on that genuine Garrett. . If you use those items you can kiss that Garrett goodbye in a matter of days.

That Garrett is good to about 730whp..that's it. (Which is usually enough)

Get the correct 7/16 -24 1mm restrictor fitting. No flange style!

98EGY8

arp rod bolts installed, acl std size rod bearings, installing clutch setup today, if all goes smooth, bolt up to transmision then run in test bay. if it runs good, order valve cover gasket, oilpan gasket, ect., gates timing belt, new water pump and tensioner, blackpath crank pully, test again in bay then swap into hatch. will look into the male-male feed fitting, i let my brother use my feed flange, now im using non restricted flange with screw in restrictor the turbo came with. chinese 44mm wastegate 2psi spring, 38mm 2 bolt to 44mm vband adapter, tial 38mm 12psi spring

98EGY8

like always, **** happens, plans change but eventualy somethin gets finished, tuned by me, using some math Fuel Injector Calculator Fuel Calculators Resources DeatschWerks i figure im around 280 crank hp with 15psi at 90% dutys 440cc at 11.5 afrs, fuel psi 41-42 at idle. r888 235 50 15 , starts spoolin 2-3k likes to stay under 5 till 3500+ then 10psi by 4000 and 15psi by 4300, no creep issues, stock 90-93 ls trans no lsd, blows the tire off in second and hooks fine in 3rd, so far no real issues but i know its just a matter of time. has some oil leaks the thermostat is stuck open the wastegate flange isnt super snug so the wastegate spins around from vibrations(you can see it got the intercooler good, and leaks exhaust all aorund the flange), its hard to spin by hand though, need to tap compressor housing for boostline to wastegate, going to normal downpipe soon,upgrading to blox dual valve springs, its going to stay off the road for winter to iron things out for next season, also need to work on the replacement engine for this car if this cheapo build goes boom

TravisBiggie

check the compression and see if it merits a rebuild. address the oil leaks, exhaust leaks. don't be lazy. that 3" charge pipe only adds lag. 2.5" is ideal for your setup, but too late for that.

your oil drain is a recipe for disaster. Spend the $10 and buy 1-2 ft of stainless braided line on ebay........... secondly, your turbo drain line needs to be more vertical. Maybe route it around the intercooler piping, but it needs to be vertical! a large drain (-12an, 3/4") won't hurt either, its what I use. You might be able to clock the bearing housing of the turbo a tad bit too so you can shoot the line straight down without the manifold and charge pipe getting in your way.

2kdrift

where did u find that intercooler?....ebay?

98EGY8

will be fixing oil and exhaust leaks asap, will do compression test. the piping was sposed to be 2.5 and drop to 2 between the compressor and intercooler, but what arrived is 3" droping to 2.5 between IC and turbo. will address the oil drain line angle and line itself, im skeptical of the drain also, was planing on braided but this got the job done fast when it was time to test fire, using it since, ive been checking and it doesnt have any signs of burning from being to close to the manifold, still, will get braided line. i could go 90 instead of 45 off the oil pan and loop around the piping, i dont think i could get a straight shot like you suggest, although maybe im just not seeing it.i have another untouched b18 oil pan ill get -12 drain for it
actually this intercoolers from amazon and it even has a ghetto name brand on it "rev9"

Schister66

I'm really surprised that oil line hasn't melted yet. Consider yourself lucky so far

98EGY8

i should have headed your warnings, no the oil drain line did not melt, but the an10 fitting wasnt tight enough going to the oil pan and came undone resulting in the engine losing nearly all of its oil while out driving, oil light started flickering, found problem, added more oil, this is were i should have replaced the rod bearings, instead kept driving it hard, lasted about a week then got rod knock and shortly after completely seized up, just remember all i had into this little project is 50$ long block and 40$ arp rod bolts. new plan is tear it down and see what it needs

98EGY8

tore it down finally, spun #1 rod bearing, the bearings flipped over each other seizing the engine, crank is done, cams are good but cam caps and cam surface in head are destroyed so RIP the head; also oil pump had a loose stud so that didnt help the oil psi (no i didnt over tighten i tq wrench everything important, guy i got the longblock from over tightened many of the bolts, reason i used my b20 head instead of the original ls head, snapped half the cam cap bolts when pulling the head and the ones that did come out the threads were very stretched). all it needs is a crank, 1 rod, oil pump and a head, planning on getting a jdm b20 (obd2) for 300$ish and stealing all that and maybe goin lsvtec if i wanna grab vtec head

king06

iTrader: (1)

Doing this myself but a b20. Just want to learn how to tune.