bostedtegg

Besides probably being a noob to many ,Im getting back around to rebuilding my gsr longblock with a spun bearing but need advice before spending money. Dont want anything crazy just a build that will be reliable and could be used daily if needed , the power goals are 300+whp anything higher would be great. My budget max is 2k, with that being said should i do a stock bottom end rebuild or build the bottom end ,pistons and rods? Any Other recommendations ?

This is what i have so far:
Stock gsr head/edlebrock cam gears
Skunk 2 manifold
Rc 550cc injectors
Aem fuel rail
ArpHead studs
Moroso oil pan
P72 ecu with s200
Gsr transmission with Lsd

Turbo kit is:
Turbonetics 50 trim /stage 2 .48 ar
30inx8.5x2.5 intercooler
2 1/2 in. piping
? Tial wastgate
Greddy type S blow of valve
Greddy turbo timer
Boost gauge
Turbo manifold ?
3in Down pipe

hardcore97

i would get a price on a rebuild from a shop, unless you are capable of doing it yourself. you need to sit down and do some numbers and figure up just how much the parts will cost you, plus the labor if you can't do the rebuild and install of parts yourself, plus the cost of the tune and see if you can fit it into that budget. 2k seems pretty tight but if you can do everything yourself it can be done. how much on the + side of 300 are you wanting? or are just shooting for 300 and anything over is a bonus? i would also recommend getting a wideband and oil pressure gauge to go along with the boost gauge.

jdmnic91

I don't believe the fuel rail is necessary. cam gears are not needed either. and you may want to think about using hondata s300 instead of the s200. I believe the stock gsr head is good for up to 400hp. if you want to make the block really reliable upgrade low comp. pistons and rods. will need to upgrade map sensor because the stock map sensor is I believe 1.7 bar map sensor and only readys up to 11 or 12 psi. just remember tuning is the key to a successfully build.

bostedtegg

Il be going to a machine shop on monday to ask for prices and go from what they quote me.. yea my goal is 300 and anything higher would be a bonus.. il be looking into the widebands

bostedtegg

Besides the s300 being better would it really be necessary that i cant keep the s200 ? Or it would depend on the my tuner ? & i was looking into wiseco pistons and eagle rods if i had to go with low conpression

hardcore97

you dont really NEED pistons and rods for 300 hp on gsr. i cant speak for the s200 because ive never used it. you could probably get on hondata's website and look at the differences and decide if its worth it to you to upgrade.

bostedtegg

I was thinking of doing an oem rebuild and aiming for 300hp so it can be reliable and not be pushed to its limits ? I looked at the s300 couple months ago and it was like 400 and something if i send in the s200 if im not wrong.

bostedtegg

So i came across a guy with a fully built jdm b18c with
Darton Sleeves
Low compression JE Pistons and Ceramic coded
Eagle Rods
Suppertech Valve Train

He said he will take 1800 but i will probably work a deal out but he ws telling me he was burning oil and he de did a compression test and one cylinder was lower and when he took out the fitting it had oil so he says it needs piston rings would this still be a deal or ? I need some opinions

phaphon

2k for a engine rebuild or for the rebuild and turbo kit?

bostedtegg

No 2k for just the engine rebuild i already have the parts i listed

phaphon

Oh okay I would go with pistons and rods set up at least . You will get bit by the boost bug and want more power. Just remember things add up fast

bostedtegg

Yea thts oneof the reason idnt wanna go stock, but how i mentioned above theres a guy selling that setup but needs piston rings , idk ifi should let it go or work a deal out because i mean the head is built and sleeved block

phaphon

There actually can be more wrong then he says. Just make sure if something does goes wrong . That your ready for it. Seems like a good deal you could also sell your old stuff to fund that block .

speedjunkie_g35

I have 300 whp on my completely stock gsr for 3 months and I am already looking for another block to build for more power. If you have to take it apart alreay, why not make it stronger??? You can find some used pistons and rods if you need to keep it inexpensive.

phaphon

Yup I sold my old piston and rods for 350 used just cause I wanted something different.

bostedtegg

so im back it and on track made some changes and decided to not go stock on the bottom end, I went with a gsr block
10:1 flat top wiseco pistons
Eagle rods
ACL bearings
since things changed, HP numbers also changed. The closest to 400whp is what im currently looking at, but I was researching the turbonetics turbo I have will loose efficiency up top with the .48 ar, what numbers should I be looking at maxed out ?

speedjunkie_g35

I would get a bigger turbine housing. .63 would be more optimal

phaphon

I do have a turbo I bought from the shodan I might be selling to upgrade soon I probably only have around 1k miles on it if that so far

ferio-ichi3

Op if you want reliable. Do an all motor build. Turbo is cool and all, but 2k isnt going to get you very far. Why you need 300whp? Are you doing the work yourself? If you are building to make it last, do a basic all motor build with you doing the work. Labor will cost you alot. Build it from the ground up. Dont matter what turbo you buy or any other parts. If your bearings arent up to par, you have a knocking bomb... I suggest(if you havent spent your cash yet) do a full oem rebuild. Head can stay stock. Learn the ins and outs of a engine, and how to really build before going for a turbo build..

Not saying a turbo build isnt reliable, but since you are asking for a reliable build, go n/a first.

My 2 cents.

Schister66

My recipe for 300whp on a budget.

Engine:
-Healthy B18a/b bottom end, B18c is nice if you have the $$
-VTEC head (unless you opted for the GSR above)
-ARP head studs

Setup:
-Inline Pro manifold
-3" dp and exhaust
-T3/T04e 50 trim
-38mm tial wg
-Tial bov
-550-880cc injectors
-Walbro 255
-IC and piping
-CC Stage 4 sprung clutch
-Crome / Crome Pro on a chipped P28 (to save some $$) - Hondata or Neptune are nice if you have the money to spend
-Boost and oil pressure gauges

There's no need for a different intake manifold, although it would be nice. That's up to you. As for the moroso pan, turbo timer, and fuel rail, definitely not necessary.

speedjunkie_g35

Yep.
My setup is a completely stock gsr longbock, arp head studs are still on shelf. 8k hard miles of boost. Compression test yesterday 240, 235, 240, 240. All in the tune.
Go-autoworks ramhorn and 2.5" dp
Go-autoworks intercooler and piping
Turbonetics 5457 302whp@8psi 334whp@10psi.
walbro 255
Id 1000 ' s
hondata s300 w/ bbg
tial f 38 wastegate
tial 50mm bov
CC stage 4 sprung clutch
boost gauge
wideband gauge
oil pressure gauge

It runs down 450 whp terminators on a regular basis.

the extra stuff can just cause failures. Had a Aem fpr fail and hydrolocked my block.

ferio-ichi3

Op, you have 2 great forced induction posts. Use them as a guide!