RaVeN

Ok I finally got my blower and intake back from jackson, I finally got it all back in and running, I decided to finally get a management system rather than the vafc hack, I dropped the car off to be dyno tuned with Neptune. I go to pick her up after work and test drive. Driving down the street the power is not there like it should be. I hear a noise I go back to the shop pulling in my power steering goes out, I pop the hood and the power steering belt is off I look down by the alternator and notice something missing I feel the alt belt and it is lose. I see the tensioner for it had fallen off. I go in another car to find it and do down the street (the noise I heard) I put it all back together tighten the belts up start her up and horrible noises. I look and my crank pulley is wobbling. I turn it off I try to tighten it, it was a little lose I start it and again same thing. I look closer and the key had moved over and and was no longer in the slot on the cranks end. I took off all the belts and the crank pulley the key had smashed 2 teeth on the pulley and messed up the slot on the cranks end so that the u was more of an L.

The shop tells me my options are replace the crank, not knowing if the block is now messed up, replace the block, get a cheaper ls block and just go ls vtec. my numbers from the dyno tune were a mere 198 down from my previous dyno of 213. at 213 I was still running stock header and exhaust, I have jrsc, endyne stepper pulley, 450cc injectors, 255 pump, aem fuel rail, vortech modified fr, 2" short ram,

so the differences between last dyno with vafc hack and this one with neptune are.

1. stock header/kamikaze 2.5"
2. stock exhaust/ apexi n1 2.5"
3. 2.25" straight pipe/ 2.5" straight pipe
4. gsr tranny/ 2000 civic si tranny
5. stock fly wheel/ act lightened fly wheel
6. used jrsc kit/ rebuilt
7. 22 lbs wheels/ 15 lbs wheels
8. Stock car gears/ St. Corsa cam gears (untuned)
9. vafc hack/ neptune

now beyond being disappointed with the numbers and how the car felt in comparison to even a couple months ago when I took the jrsc off to be rebuilt.

1. How would the crank pulley come lose? I haven't touched it.
2. what are my options now?
obviously I could do the suggestions stated before, but would that be my only options, money wise I'm not sure after paying for all I have the last 2 months that getting a new block could be done.
A question is if I do get an ls block would this hender me more? Should I just do a gsr block, should I just do the crank or should
I try to cut the damaged U slot on the crank bigger and cut a key and pulley to match it?

If I get a rebuilt ls short block and golden eagle ls/vtec kit what else will I need, can I use any off the gsr block, will the ls/vtec work well with the jr or be worse off? can the ls bottom handle the boost without being built with after market stuff?
Sorry a bit annoyed, confused and over all pissed.






Modified by RaVeN at 4:53 PM 7/29/2006

quicksilver1689

keep ur gsr block, if your crank is not resuseable just get an ls crank. wow what shop did u use? they sound like retards

RaVeN

If I use a LS Crank, do I need to change anything else?, also I am trying my best to think of how this could happen, but I just have no idea. I know it was ok before, But why would they even touch the Crank pulley? Thus I can't say the shop did anything wrong, and I don't want to blame anyone but all in all it sux and I really don't know. I respect the guys up there and they have a good rep but it's hard to not wonder wtf happened..

NJIN BUILDR

Here is a repair on a miata with a similar problem.This does work.

http://www.miata.net/garage/hs....html

RaVeN

thanks for the link, I had thought about 2 things similar to this, 1 samething with jb weld, another with cutting the key hole more to straighten the lines in a U again and cutting a bigger key, I just don't know if that would hold up or if anything else could have been damaged by this. Guess I have nothing to losebut trying