dusted74

So this integra that i am building came with a spare gsr head. Just the head with springs and valves. No rockers, cams or anything. Is it worth getting all setup on a turbo motor?
I am turboing the stock motor and i have a spare that i might build for a later date for more hp. Goal is 250-300 for this and more later on a built motor.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Yep. Worth it.

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

I don't see the worth it. More boost until you get close to the LS head's limit.

m4xwellmurd3r

You have to upgrade the rod bolts if you wanna do lsv

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Why?

m4xwellmurd3r

Because the stock ls rod bolts are garbage even at the stock redline. Raise it to vtec levels and you just end up stretching the bolts and trashing the bearings.

Arp rod bolts for lsv is kind of standard procedure if you want it reliable

B20VtecVillain

True story, LS rod bolts = D series rod bolts in siZe/strength. Back to the OP thoigh, if your just looking for 250-300hp right now and on a budget, stick with the complete stock LS. You can hit those numbers with a decent turbo at fairly low boost with ease. If you are planning to build a second block anyway, get the LSV kit, finish building the GSR head, maybe even have some port work done to open her up and then use that head on your newly built block and have a monster.

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

Can you change rod bolts without removing the motor

B20VtecVillain

Yea you can, but it's not ideal unless you have a lift to use and whatnot.

Bring to TDC, drain oil, remove oil pan, pickup, Windage tray etc. Do one rod at a time, put it all back together the same way you took it apart. Refil with oil. The end lol

B20VtecVillain

Will have to pull your header too and anything else in the way of the pan.

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

So it really isn't worth it. Do stock bolts tend to stretch from power or is it just rpms? I've read quite a few spun bearings on stock LS motors and I was wondering if the bolts could have the blame pointed at them.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

I have stock rod bolts on my b20v i have my redline set at 7500 rpm

They havent stretched yet

B20VtecVillain

It's a matter of time thing, plus your leaving some power on the table with a rev limit that early using a VTEC head. As far as LS engines go, the rod bolts are the single greatest cause of failure.

B20VtecVillain

I believe the revs are more the cause of rod bolt issues, but I'm sure increased power doesn't help the cause at all. I have seen numerous internally stock 150-160hp LS engines have issues due to stock rod bolts with a rev limit under 7500. The LS bolts are literally the same size as D16 rod bolts.

dusted74

So my whole plan here is to get this thing turboed and tuned with the 100something thousand mile motor and then build another motor for when this one blows. Sleeved, good pistons, rods, the whole deal. So rod bolts would surely be changed.
The gsr head just obviously will flow a lot more, why i was thinking about using it if its not a huge dilema to get it mated up.

B20VtecVillain

The head will mate with the block just fine, but in order to take advantage of the better flow of the VTEC head you will be revving the motor higher than any reputable builder would suggest using stock LS rod bolts. So, if your goal is to build another engine anyway, I personally would save the GSR head for that setup and just run your stock LS as is for now. If you do decide to go the LSVtec route, you will need a VTEC conversion kit that will supply a sandwich adapter and oil lines, head gasket, dowels to plug the internal oil passages in the VTEC head etc. You will also need a VTEC ecu as your stock LS unit will not activate VTEC. Obviously you would also need the cams, cam gear, timing belt etc. To finish off yor GSR head as well. Some machine shop work may be necessary as well to get proper sealing when mating that head to your block depending on the condition of each. I will again strongly suggest that ARP rod bolts be used if you go this route.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

I would go with the vtec head now.

It flows better everywhere. Not just above 7500rpm

B20VtecVillain

Correct, but if the person building the setup is unwilling to even upgrade from stock LS rod bolts, a hybrid build shouldn't yet be in the cards.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

How do you change the rod bolts with out removing the rods anyway? Arent they press fit?

B20VtecVillain

The proper way to do it would be to have the sizing checked and use the stretch torque method yes, but I have installed ARP rod bolts on a B18 while still in an Integra and it had Zero issues and the owner pulled to 7800rpm all the time. Why I'm not sure as his engine fell flat on its face above like 7k, but the point being it can be done lol.

At the same time though, I should mention I would personally fork out the 76-80 bucks the machine shop would charge to check the big ends and handle the resize of necessary. But, this particular person wanted to cheap out and get it done for the price of a 30block at home, so we did it.
Engine still purrs like a kitten but this would definately not be a 100% of the time scenario

B20VtecVillain

Just be sure to only do one at a time to mind the bearings and keep things where they need to be.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

How do you remove the stock rod bolts with the rods in the motor?

B20VtecVillain

Tap them out. It's a major PITA to do while the rods are still in the bore, but it can be done.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

I have a feeling youve never done this before and aren't speaking from experience

You cray

B20VtecVillain

I have indeed installed a set of ARP bolts in an LS while the engine was still in the vehicle. Not even on a lift, driveway style. Would I do this to my own engine? No, because my local machine shop would handle it correctly for under $100 bucks. But I never speak on anything I have not personally experienced. Well......except STANCE LyFE!!!