Mr.Hankey

I sent my manifold back to get repaired, it was a spoolinperformance log manifold (i wouldnt post who made it until it was fixed)and i got some updated pictures on my setup. I still have to break-in the engine when i get it back. Hopefully ill be doing that next week, but in the mean time im putting the stuff i have together because i like playing with stuff. Here are some pictures, im hella happy cause im so close!!!!

JoePSI

Yeah, it was no secret phil made that manifold, hes the only one that uses that kind of wastegate bend. Looks good, didnt look bad to begin with though. Glad you are proud of your ashy heritage !

Good luck

TIGboy

love it, lol I also use the jergens..haha, sick *** turbo btw and they did a great job on the manifold

SpooledT3

nice manifold, very clean looking

Schister66

sweet...props to Phil. He built my log too.

OT: thats a badass compressor housing

Tchleung

GT30R? :D

urbansi

Wow that manifold and turbo look great together

Mr.Hankey

man in getting gushy feelings inside looking at this pair together. Its a GT3076R with a .82 hot side and a .60 cold. My block should be built by early next week. When i get it back i have to break it in for at least 500miles, and if i want to go high boost it is recommended to break it in for 1000-1500 miles. Since this is my first turbo, ill probably go really low boost and climb my way up psi when my nuts get bigger! And the jergens is for my elbows, dem nuckas be gettin hella dry!


Modified by Mr.Hankey at 11:29 PM 10/21/2006

JoePSI

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.Hankey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">man in getting gushy feelings inside looking at this pair together. Its a GT3076R with a .82 hot side and a .60 cold. My block should be built by early next week. When i get it back i have to break it in for at least 500miles, and if i want to go high boost it is recommended to break it in for 1000-1500 miles. Since this is my first turbo, ill probably go really low boost and climb my way up psi when my nuts get bigger! And the jergens is for my elbows, dem nuckas be gettin hella dry!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Very nice, make sure you break it in properly with a good tune.

Tchleung

Nice. I have the same turbo but the smaller .63 housing. Boosting 30psi the turbo screams lmao. The ported shroud sounds amazing.

Mr.Hankey

wow 30psi, i cant wait!!!! How high are you revving?

Tchleung

9,500-10,000

I got 30psi around 5200ish I think it was. I'm actually looking to upgrade to the .86 housing that way I don't have to boost as high to make the power I want.

Mr.Hankey

Yeah im not sure if i cant boost that high with this manifold, im not trying to have a projectile head. Im hoping for 450whp without anything breaking. My builder told me i can rev my engine to about 9500rpms (the stock rev is only 6200 rpms!) But now im thinking i might not need to rev that high, he told me hes going to go with a smaller stroke crank 90.7mm(less displacement, 2.1l instead of 2.3l) And i might tell him to go with a different crank 95mm and have a lower revving engine, maybe 7500-8000 rpms (but it will be 2.3l) so im not sure. But as long as i get into the 11's with this thing ill be happy!


Modified by Mr.Hankey at 1:50 AM 10/22/2006

Tchleung

Oh ya totally. What kinda car is this going in? I've ran flat 12's in full street trim on just drag radials. Spinning to the 330.

HiProfile

Stock 6200 rev, uneven port spacing... 2.3L to 2.1L... Mind telling us what engine that is?

Assuming its a more conventional motor (ie lower rpm), I'd be thinking you'll make 300 lb/ft fairly easy, even 280tq at 7500rpm is 400hp. Log manifolds tend to have big issues with backpressure, going much higher than 3:1 which will cause reversion at higher rpm's. Again assuming its a more conventional motor than a honda (less overlap), it won't be that much of an issue, but you still don't get the scavenging you get from longer runners.

And that 1st pic is priceless Almost easy to miss that.

Mr.Hankey

Its a honda engine, but i want to keep it hush hush until next month or so when its complete. I dont think anyone has built the motor im building and i wanna be the first to get everything up and running with no issues. I agree that ill probably make in the range of 275-300tq and around 425-450whp. I just dont know if i want to keep the revs at 8g's or 9500. Id have hella more tq with a 2.3l then a 2.1l but tq is what breaks stuff and burns tires up so im still not certain what im going to get yet.

Edit: On the first picture, i couldnt just have a big *** lotion bottle that said 'ash relief' on it without sayin somthin

Edit#2: Do you think im going to have problems with headlift with my manifold and revving to 9500 rpms? Because that was one of my concerns but my builder doesnt seem to mind, so i kind of just assumed that it would be okay also.


Modified by Mr.Hankey at 2:45 AM 10/22/2006

Attaus

I know exactly what motor that is.. lol..

9,500 RPM would be insane. I can't imagine going that high. Keep us updated.


Modified by Attaus at 9:54 PM 10/21/2006

I Have an STD

f23 correct? arp head studs will prevent head lift

drumking15

prob a f23/22 vtec w/ a h22 head...or h23 head....and the 2.1 would be destroking it if im correct....

gl w/ the build

HiProfile

Well for reference, headlifting on a d-series is from the smaller headstuds they use along with excessive timing in a motor with a small bore. If its an f-series, they are supposed to acutally have good heads, I don't know the diff in size between b/h/f headstuds though.

My opinion on revving it would be to make the shift points nearer to spoolup than to redline. Most hondas have traction issues with big torque, so I'd say revving would be best. Out of concerns for motor safety, I'd go 2.1L. Regardless, its the pioneer's job to test the waters, not ask those left in the dark

b18sihatch

looks good nice turbo too!

Mr.Hankey

Do you guys think ill benifit from high revs when i get my motor back without the turbo in it? If i stay at stock rpms/revs im going to have less power if i dont rev high. And another thing ive been thinking about, for them to tune my OBDII engine for the upgraded parts, should i let them put the AEM EMS in before i start driving the car? Just so they can make me a map of all the newly installed parts.

pheurton-skeurto

this thread would be fantastic if other people could benefit from the information. instead we're all left guessing on the motor/parts/etc. its like a goddamn secret society...

Mr.Hankey

I just dropped off the AEM EMS. I didnt know if he could tune my car without it, and its doing no good holding on to it myself. He told me that he needed to get a 'garunteed start' so hes going to have to take it to his tuner before he start the new engine. We dont want to ruin a $5k engine because we dont have a good working basemap. So thats going to add on a couple more days at the shop (already been over 3 months now that i think about it) So i hope i get my car back in october- But we'll see what happens. Ill post more when we're closer to completion.


Edit: Does anyone know what the difference between the AEM EMS 30-1050, and the 30-1010? Obviously one the 30-1010 is older, but whats been updated since then? I have the 30-1010, and just wondered if spending the extra $55 is worth the upgraded chip.