ladysman

Well, I finally received my block. I asked GE what needed to be done "special". They told me to add a coolant conditioner. I said Bar's Leak (because I read on H-T a million times about using it) they said no. I asked then what, they said anything.
I want to know what to use. I am sure there is one out there GE recommends, they aren't saying for whatever reason. What does everyone here use for their GE blocks as far as a coolant conditioner? Anything else to add to my coolant?

Next, headstuds. What do I torque them at for a non-oringed block? Copper spray will be used. There instructions say like 82 ft lbs but I have read otherwise on here.

Anyting else "special" I need to be aware of? I would appreciate any input.
I am sure I will have other questions soon.

Boostfed

And when they say 82 ft-lbs that is with ARP moly lube also not oil, I confirmed like 3-4 times with Vince and Ted when I originally got my block the first time. I am unsure of the coolant conditioner but I would got to an Autoparts store and look around if they said any will work. Also good luck on the block. On my old style block I needed to use the Bar's Leak but I guess the new sleeving proces is different and there are no LEAKING problems anymore. Good luck again.

earl

Wow, got to love that great tech support.
You can use a little bit of rust inhibitor or maybe .5 gal of antifreeze mixed with water. Anything to stop the rusting of the steel sleeves. That is all that you need.
Torque your stud nuts to 4 or 5 pounds over stock only. 82lbs will warp your head over a period of time.
Copper spray is good..

X-Mazda 3 Racer

I think our tech support is pretty good Earl. We just recommend anything the inhibits rust formation on the sleeves. There are multiple products on the market that can be picked up at any local auto parts store that can do this, just ask. There is no specific one that we found works any better than another. Also, the head stud TQ shpuld be anywhere between 78 and 82 ft. lbs. That is what I use on my motors with or without o-ring, there is no difference. Just make sure to coat the gasket in copper spray on both sides and you will be good. If you need any more info, please IM or e-mail me and I will get back to you a.s.a.p. Please keep us up to date on your progress! Thanks

Vince

93LSivic

78-82 seems to be a lot. Is this with ARP's moly or with engine oil??
Just use 50/50 for the coolant.
Oh yeah. Copper spray you hg, wheather its stock or aftermarket.

TurbodCX

Whats up bro!?

I would not torque the studs to 82lbs.!!! i torqued my studs to 70lbs.

That 82 # i beleive comes from the B seris guys where the studs are 11mm and not a D series where the studs are onlt 10mm.

Also i would used copper spray on both sides, and i used bars leak in my block.

GE gets a big from me.

Almost 10k miles on my motor and not a single problem yet!!!!

Great workmanship also!

Brian


If you have any Q's just IM me man.

ladysman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurbodCX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Whats up bro!?

I would not torque the studs to 82lbs.!!! i torqued my studs to 70lbs.

That 82 # i beleive comes from the B seris guys where the studs are 11mm and not a D series where the studs are onlt 10mm.

Also i would used copper spray on both sides, and i used bars leak in my block.

GE gets a big from me.

Almost 10k miles on my motor and not a single problem yet!!!!

Great workmanship also!

Brian


If you have any Q's just IM me man.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Cool. Thanks. I remember you did yours at 70 but when I read this, I wanted to make sure.
First time to the public.


Head is being completed by Endyn and was promised to me by Labor Day weekend. That is when the install happens.

Turbocivic94

all the motors I've done, I torque them to 70.

Sonny

I torqued my D series studs to 80 ft-lbs, however the D16A1 and ZC use 11mm studs. The SOHC D engines use 10mm studs.

Sonny

ladysman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GoldenEagleMfg.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think our tech support is pretty good Earl. We just recommend anything the inhibits rust formation on the sleeves. There are multiple products on the market that can be picked up at any local auto parts store that can do this, just ask. There is no specific one that we found works any better than another. Also, the head stud TQ shpuld be anywhere between 78 and 82 ft. lbs. That is what I use on my motors with or without o-ring, there is no difference. Just make sure to coat the gasket in copper spray on both sides and you will be good. If you need any more info, please IM or e-mail me and I will get back to you a.s.a.p. Please keep us up to date on your progress! Thanks

Vince</TD></TR></TABLE>

Vince, so Bar's Leak is OK right? Just want to verify.

ladysman

Up before I leave for the night.

Thanks for the help.

Mikeyslude

Up again, I would like to know this answer as well. My engine will be up and running in about a week.

Boostfed

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93LSivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">78-82 seems to be a lot. Is this with ARP's moly or with engine oil??
Just use 50/50 for the coolant.
Oh yeah. Copper spray you hg, wheather its stock or aftermarket.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Dan I confirmed when I had my GE block with Vince and Ted 82 ft-lbs with MOLY lube, I asked are you sure not oil they said Moly lube and no problems so I did. I use AEBS studs now and torque them with oil at their recommended torque of 70ft-lbs.

MotorMatrix.com

i always did mine 82ft lbs with 30 wt oil and i had no issues at all at 600+whp and 29psi of boost.

SIXTYdashONE

Ive been under the impression that i was to use Bars Leak with the sleeves. Ive been doing so, and i prolly will continue to do so, hehe, Any word Vince?

MotorMatrix.com

i believe it was vince but it was definitely a rep from GE that posted on here saying to use bars stop leak. thats what i used in mine.

SIXTYdashONE

Yah, i think it was too

SuperTeg95

torqued mine to 72lbs. 1500 miles and no problems since. I also used copper spray.

Boostfed

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MotorMatrix.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i believe it was vince but it was definitely a rep from GE that posted on here saying to use bars stop leak. thats what i used in mine. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Here's your answer.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=241299

"There is something we changed in our policy and I will explain why. We have finally found something that will prevent the sleeves from rusting, so this is what you should do:
Every block should have "Bar's Leaks Radiator Stop Leak and Conditioner" added to the coolant. This product has shown to be a very big asset to our blocks. Not only does it keep the sleeves from rusting, but it also conditions the water pump and prevents water seepage from the sleeves to the oil chamber. We strongly suggest using this in your blocks, or anyone you kow that has a block or ours, or anyone that has a sleeved block from someone else. You can get this product from any auto store for about $3.00. Just add it to your coolant and follow the directions on the bottle. You only need to purchase the 5.5 oz. bottle for your Honda/Acura motor. Part number is either C16 for the 10 fl. oz. bottle or R6 for the 5.5 fl. oz. bottle. Check it out at http://www.barsleaks.com/ Remember, we only back Bar's Leaks as the product to use, do not use anything else!!!!! If you have any questions, please feel free to let me know. Thanks for your time."

Bolded part is the real reason IMO , I knew of a couple blocks that had coolant leak between the sleeves, also a professional race team who will be nameless told me about this, they actually took the oil pan off and pressurized the radiator and they could literally see coolant seeping through the sleeves, they added the Bar's Leak and it stopped at least. I know of another one personaly that had the same problem but adding the Bar's Leak fixed the coolant loss or seeping between the sleeves but it didn't keep them from sinking.

Boostfed

Check this out also just found it tonight online from C&R...

http://www.crracing.com/estore...pleak

"C&R STOP LEAK
C&R Stop Leak is an item that can prevent a DNF in the event of a radiator puncture, cracked cylinder head, or head gasket problem. Many race cars have dropped out of races because of these problems. Up to now, the drawback of using stop leak was the residue that it left behind. Most stop leaks use ceramic and rely on air to make it coagulate and plug a hole or crack. This works well but the bad side effect is that when the water is drained from the system during an engine change, the stop leak will dry inside of the radiator, heads, and engine block leaving a ceramic coating. Ceramic is a good insulator but this is not what you want inside of your cooling system. Even products that don't contain ceramics will leave a residue. Any residue or coating inside the tubes of a radiator will reduce its efficiency.

After extensive research, C & R Racing has found a stop leak that doesn't leave a residue. C&R Stop Leak stays suspended in the water so that when the water is drained, all of the stop leak is drained with the water leaving no residue.

WATER TREATMENT
Use C&R Water Treatment to clean and protect your vehicle's cooling system all year long. Specially formulated with an exclusive blend of cleaning and conditioning agents.

C&R Water Treatment

Protects against electrolysis and chemical corrosion
Reduces foaming
Cleans and conditions the entire cooling system
Lubricates water pump
Conditions pump seals and o-rings
Helps prevent sludge, scale, and blocks rust

Your cooling system is constantly under attack by electrolytic (electrolysis) and chemical corrosion. Electrolysis occurs when a reaction between dissimilar metals in a solution generates electricity. Chemical corrosion results from a chemical reaction between the coolant and the metal parts of the cooling system. Rust is a common form of chemical corrosion that, when combined with cavitation (air entrapment in the cooling system), can severely damage system parts and cylinder liners."

May be something to look at.

MotorMatrix.com

really good info. thanks

by the way i saw the Gm summit crew pour a brand of stop leak in the motor that was in a yellow bottle. i never saw the name but it said stop leak. they had bad headgasket i think and poured it in before the final round and won against abel ibarra. i guess it work somewhat if those guys are using it.

GruvyTune

i have not heard back from Vince yet. He told me last month not to add bars leak, that it was for the old style sleeves.

but, i am wondering if it's worth it to prevent rust. I hesitate because that kind of stuff has been known to plug the heater core!

ladysman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GruvyTune &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have not heard back from Vince yet. He told me last month not to add bars leak, that it was for the old style sleeves.

but, i am wondering if it's worth it to prevent rust. I hesitate because that kind of stuff has been known to plug the heater core!

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Endyn recommended I use the Bar's leak on my block. They are the ones who built it.

Ray

Anyone use that C&R stop leak and water conditioner? Sounds better than Bars Leak

X-Mazda 3 Racer

ANY type of rust preventative will work fine. We just suggest it so you can get the most out of your investment. Bar's Leak is not neccessary to use! Sorry it took so long to respond, I was in TX for NHRA.