Going to tune built block on Stock Sleeves, howmuch WHP is safe for Daily Driver?
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Going to tune built block on Stock Sleeves, howmuch WHP is safe for Daily Driver?
Hey guys, I will be tuning my motor shortly.
Im in Canada, and I have been getting a lot of different opinions on howmuch I can push my built stock sleeve motor too.
Here's a list of what the motor consists of:
b16a2 head,
Full Omni Power Valvtrain
Ferrea Racing bronze valve guides, locks and seals etc..
CTR cams
Skunk2 Cam gears
GE fuel Rail
RC750CC injectors
B&M FPR
Marshall FPR gauge
Hondata I/M gasket
AEBS Intake Mani port matched to 68mm
68MM Skunk2 TB
Motorola 2.5 bar Map sensor
Milled head
ARP headstuds
New OEM honda Type R/b16 head gasket
Bottem end:
b18c1 bottem end, bored and honed to 81.5mm
Wiseco 81.5mm Pistons 9:1 comp
Eagle H beam connecting rods
Micropolished and balanced OEM honda Crank
King Rod Bearings
New OEM honda type R oil Pump
New OEM honda Type R water Pump
New OEM honda Timing Belt
Type R transmission, rebuilt with gearspeed carbon quoted synchro set
ACT Xtreme Clutch kit
ACT prolite 8lb flywheel
Turbo: Master Power TD04E 50 Trim, with a .84 ar on the exhaust side. Twin Scroll collector t3 flanged.
RAMHORN manifold.
Tial 38MM wastegate
all Stainless 2.5" Charge piping
Greddy Type RS BOV.
3" stainless steel DP, no Cat
Kteller 3" Bolt up Catback Exhuast System
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
hasport 75a Urathane Engine mounts.
Chipped p28 ECU, tuning will be done on Crome.
Function and form full coilover suspension.
If I remember anything more i'll add........
Im In Canada, Only Gas I'd be running is Ultra 94 via Sunoco.
What would you guys say is a reliable safe WHP level to tune this engine out to? I know it depends on your tuner,
I've been getting what seems to me somewhat low quotes by local tuners ie. 250WHP etc...
Any help/input is greatly appreciated.
Yes I have searched, but seeking opinions towards my own set up. As I trust more so of what you guys in the states have to say/offer advice wise with the set up lol!
Thanks guys
Travis
Modified by djtrini at 5:51 PM 8/2/2007
Im in Canada, and I have been getting a lot of different opinions on howmuch I can push my built stock sleeve motor too.
Here's a list of what the motor consists of:
b16a2 head,
Full Omni Power Valvtrain
Ferrea Racing bronze valve guides, locks and seals etc..
CTR cams
Skunk2 Cam gears
GE fuel Rail
RC750CC injectors
B&M FPR
Marshall FPR gauge
Hondata I/M gasket
AEBS Intake Mani port matched to 68mm
68MM Skunk2 TB
Motorola 2.5 bar Map sensor
Milled head
ARP headstuds
New OEM honda Type R/b16 head gasket
Bottem end:
b18c1 bottem end, bored and honed to 81.5mm
Wiseco 81.5mm Pistons 9:1 comp
Eagle H beam connecting rods
Micropolished and balanced OEM honda Crank
King Rod Bearings
New OEM honda type R oil Pump
New OEM honda Type R water Pump
New OEM honda Timing Belt
Type R transmission, rebuilt with gearspeed carbon quoted synchro set
ACT Xtreme Clutch kit
ACT prolite 8lb flywheel
Turbo: Master Power TD04E 50 Trim, with a .84 ar on the exhaust side. Twin Scroll collector t3 flanged.
RAMHORN manifold.
Tial 38MM wastegate
all Stainless 2.5" Charge piping
Greddy Type RS BOV.
3" stainless steel DP, no Cat
Kteller 3" Bolt up Catback Exhuast System
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
hasport 75a Urathane Engine mounts.
Chipped p28 ECU, tuning will be done on Crome.
Function and form full coilover suspension.
If I remember anything more i'll add........
Im In Canada, Only Gas I'd be running is Ultra 94 via Sunoco.
What would you guys say is a reliable safe WHP level to tune this engine out to? I know it depends on your tuner,
I've been getting what seems to me somewhat low quotes by local tuners ie. 250WHP etc...
Any help/input is greatly appreciated.
Yes I have searched, but seeking opinions towards my own set up. As I trust more so of what you guys in the states have to say/offer advice wise with the set up lol!
Thanks guys
Travis
Modified by djtrini at 5:51 PM 8/2/2007
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Re: Going to tune built block on Stock Sleeves, howmuch WHP is safe for Daily Driver? (djtrini)
also running aluminum dual core rad w/ 12" proform slimfan.
Here's a pic of the set up in the car:
Here's a pic of the set up in the car:
#5
Re: (big22)
LMFAO @ 250whp!!! Don't EVER go there again! Your engine sounds like its built up
right, so with a good (but relatively conservative tune) 350-400whp shouldn't be a
problem. If you doubt your setup, get a block guard pressed and call it a day. You've
got almost the EXACT same rods/pistons combo I do, so keep us posted on how it
works out for you.
right, so with a good (but relatively conservative tune) 350-400whp shouldn't be a
problem. If you doubt your setup, get a block guard pressed and call it a day. You've
got almost the EXACT same rods/pistons combo I do, so keep us posted on how it
works out for you.
#6
Re: (djtrini)
I daily drove my first setup for 57k miles. Was just over 300whp at first then estimated 340ish for the remainder. I ended up cracking the skirts on the pistons but that was from running too much piston/wall clearance (stock 81mm bore) for a prolonged period. 57k miles turbo dd is damn good anyhow.
#7
Re: (djtrini)
p.s. Don't forget that your compression will be higher since you've milled that head.
Theres a compression ratio calculator @ http://www.c-speedracing.com
good luck
Theres a compression ratio calculator @ http://www.c-speedracing.com
good luck
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#12
how much power is that 50 trim good for. i dont think i would be trying makign 400+whp daily on that.
i would throw the b&m reg away and get a stock one. other than that the buildup looks very good.
i would throw the b&m reg away and get a stock one. other than that the buildup looks very good.
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Re: (mike@synapse motorsport)
with a 50 trim, its going to take over 20psi to make around 400whp, this is going to create a lot of heat as your pretty much maxing that turbo out.
This is something to consider....the motor might do it but this will most likely shorten its lifespan considerably....sleeve crackage might be in your future.
I barely made 400whp with a .60.48 ar 57 trim at 19-21 psi area.
This is something to consider....the motor might do it but this will most likely shorten its lifespan considerably....sleeve crackage might be in your future.
I barely made 400whp with a .60.48 ar 57 trim at 19-21 psi area.
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Turbo is good to around 600hp last time I read up on it on Master Power website.
it has Stage 3 wheels, 50 trim compressor side. .84 A/R on the Exhaust side.
This turbo is BIG, i'll snap some pics
it has Stage 3 wheels, 50 trim compressor side. .84 A/R on the Exhaust side.
This turbo is BIG, i'll snap some pics
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Re: Going to tune built block on Stock Sleeves, howmuch WHP is safe for Daily Driver? (djtrini)
There is one reason why I don't like to go on the forums to research about safe power limits..
All the guys who have spoken here probably never ran their Hondas for over 3-4 years and never touched 5th gear and did a top speed pull... A lot of them are still "fresh" with their setup and probably happy that their cars are still running.
Those who have blown their motors, cracked their sleeves, etc... usually won't be here talking about it either. You mostly hear about the "good side".
So far, stock sleeves are the weakest link. Why do we have such a huge variance of safe power? Some blocks are made better than other, some blocks have an unknown history, different mileage, etc...
Unless you are so confident that your stock sleeves are 100% mint, your factory block was manufactured on a Wednesday at the best Honda plant with all the employees having a super duper great day, then sure, push 400-450 WHP on your stock sleeves and try to daily drive it...
I have a buddy, with a 350 WHP stock sleeved (but forged internals) Integra Type-R... He ran his car for over 2 years, and all it took was 3 consecutive pulls on the highway to blow up that POS. He thought his tune was good (as proven from his years of daily driving -- probably drove like a grandma), his car was setup perfectly or so he thought, until he got heavy with his right foot on one particular day.
The more power you make, the less head room you get. It's really that simple.. So djtrini, if you expect this engine to live for 2 or more years, and want to have a safe reliable setup fit for daily driving/spirited street driving, stay below 350 WHP. If you don't care if the engine goes to hell and you just want to have fun with minimal money, then you shouldn't even have to ask anyone. Just crank that bitch up and see if you can get away with 450 WHP
Remember, don't emphasize too much on WHP.. Torque numbers is just as critical in determining what's the safe limit.
All the guys who have spoken here probably never ran their Hondas for over 3-4 years and never touched 5th gear and did a top speed pull... A lot of them are still "fresh" with their setup and probably happy that their cars are still running.
Those who have blown their motors, cracked their sleeves, etc... usually won't be here talking about it either. You mostly hear about the "good side".
So far, stock sleeves are the weakest link. Why do we have such a huge variance of safe power? Some blocks are made better than other, some blocks have an unknown history, different mileage, etc...
Unless you are so confident that your stock sleeves are 100% mint, your factory block was manufactured on a Wednesday at the best Honda plant with all the employees having a super duper great day, then sure, push 400-450 WHP on your stock sleeves and try to daily drive it...
I have a buddy, with a 350 WHP stock sleeved (but forged internals) Integra Type-R... He ran his car for over 2 years, and all it took was 3 consecutive pulls on the highway to blow up that POS. He thought his tune was good (as proven from his years of daily driving -- probably drove like a grandma), his car was setup perfectly or so he thought, until he got heavy with his right foot on one particular day.
The more power you make, the less head room you get. It's really that simple.. So djtrini, if you expect this engine to live for 2 or more years, and want to have a safe reliable setup fit for daily driving/spirited street driving, stay below 350 WHP. If you don't care if the engine goes to hell and you just want to have fun with minimal money, then you shouldn't even have to ask anyone. Just crank that bitch up and see if you can get away with 450 WHP
Remember, don't emphasize too much on WHP.. Torque numbers is just as critical in determining what's the safe limit.
#21
Re: Going to tune built block on Stock Sleeves, howmuch WHP is safe for Daily Driver? (Tony the Tige
how can you justify to yourself doing such an extensive build and not getting a sleeved block?
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Motor is GSR 1.8L bottem end, with a B16a2 head to be specific.
Master Power Turbo's are great turbo's, Deffinately not an ebay turbo lol.
Tony, I 100% understand where your coming from. Your advise is taken well into thought and greatly appreciated.
As for the why I choose to build this block and not sleeve it..... Aftermarket sleeves are either HIT or miss. Some work great, and you always here or see horror stories (ie. sleeves sinking)
Only aftermarket sleeves I would invest in is buying an actual DART block! From which I cannot afford at the moment. So I choose to go with a Built stock sleeve bottem end, because all in all if this bottem end was to blow up. I could go out and get another b18c1 bottem end, buy another new set of Wiseco pistons and rods and have the block fully assembled For the same cost if not less than what it would cost me to send a bare block out to get sleeved etc..
Hope that makes sense? Some people agree with me, some beg to differ lol.
Master Power Turbo's are great turbo's, Deffinately not an ebay turbo lol.
Tony, I 100% understand where your coming from. Your advise is taken well into thought and greatly appreciated.
As for the why I choose to build this block and not sleeve it..... Aftermarket sleeves are either HIT or miss. Some work great, and you always here or see horror stories (ie. sleeves sinking)
Only aftermarket sleeves I would invest in is buying an actual DART block! From which I cannot afford at the moment. So I choose to go with a Built stock sleeve bottem end, because all in all if this bottem end was to blow up. I could go out and get another b18c1 bottem end, buy another new set of Wiseco pistons and rods and have the block fully assembled For the same cost if not less than what it would cost me to send a bare block out to get sleeved etc..
Hope that makes sense? Some people agree with me, some beg to differ lol.